Pls help - Franke Sink - am I wasting my money?
fly964
13 years ago
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rgb5064
13 years agoci_lantro
13 years agoRelated Discussions
I. Am. Going. To. Lose. My. Mind. Shaw+Waste King=no water
Comments (39)Dang Nabit!!! The P-trap is easy. Just tighten a bit more. Not too much if plastic, you can strip it. The DW is going to be either the fill or the drain. The fill should have a cutoff under the sink: turn off the water. This again may be a connection that needs to be tightened down a little more. The drain on the KA is just a hose, but it has a clamp on the pump/motor end and another at the airgap (do you have one of these?) or the GD end. (I assume the first time it drained you heard/saw the water going through the GD?) In terms of 'high loop' (and no airgap) the hose needs to be mounted so that there is a high point in the line somewhere. It connects to a short section of hose at the bottom of the washer with a provided clamp. Maybe the clamp is missing or is in the wrong place. Anyway, this isn't rocket science and you need perhaps someone else to look at it. A plumber is not necessary, perhaps just a handyman. Or someone else who knows which end of a screwdriver and pliers are to be used in this instance....See MoreAnyone have a Franke Orca sink and DW on the right?
Comments (14)valinsv, sorry I somehow missed your post when I reread this initially. My base cabinet is a standard 24" depth that is just pulled forward 3" (actually 2 1/4", to make the turn posts line up with raised panel door, I guess) . Anyway, I have a window sill that will be 4 1/2" above the counter that comes out 2 1/4" from the wall and takes up any extra space I would have gained to put faucets and things. I just measured and the sink is actually 20" front to back including the lip at the widest point of the sink. The opening is 18 3/4" front to back with 1/2" lip all the way around. If they require 3" of counter in front of the sink opening, there will 1 1/2" overhang, plus the opening will have to be set back another 1 1/2" into the sink base. I am confusing myself here but I believe it goes like this: The actual cabinet opening is 22 7/8" wide, because the 24" depth includes the thickness of the plywood used to construct it, not the opening size. Assuming 3" in front of the sink opening, requiring the sink to be set back 1 1/2 inches into the cabinet opening, the back of sink cutout would be 20 1/4 inches from the front of the cabinet, leaving only 2 3/8" from the the back of the sink opening to the back of the cabinet opining. In that space is the 1/2" back lip to the sink. That only leaves 1 7/8" to fit the SD in, and I can't believe that would be enough room. Oh, bother as Winnie the Pooh would say. I think I just proved that it won't fit there. The GD switch is an air switch. Placement was general not exact. I would actually like a little more space between it and the faucet to make cleaning easier. I just like it near the faucet because you are already reaching back to turn the water on before starting the GD so it seemed to make sense to keep the two together. Assuming now that the SD won't fit where I wanted it, this is probably what I will have to go with: The SD bottle likely won't be in use much because I ordered a neverMT and I don't think you install the bottle part with those. But it is a consideration. However, I think that issue is resolved by moving it to the left side. If I made any errors in math or wrong assumptions here, anyone, please tell me. The template is Tuesday and the kitchen installer won't be involved to help me because I went outside him in order to get the quartz (he only does granite). He is OK with it, just not responsible for the outcome. Now, does anyone know how much space is required between the sink opening and the faucet hole? Sue...See More2nd try w/sink layout? Pls help!
Comments (11)In option 2, I think the the 1" noted next to the sink is the architect's shorthand to indicate the 12 inches required on either side of corner to allow for the 36" cabinet required for corner cabinet to accommodate a 3 bin rotary trash recycle. (I will try to post link to it) http://www.specialtysupplies.com/rotary-corner-recycling-center-p-3601.html I agree with edlakin & others that we could certainly put trash in island. My thought is to have a small trash under sink for the somewhat messy stuff that doesn't go in disposal & to have bigger trash+recycle in the outer corner of island- that way kids & guests don't have to come into main work area of kitchen just to throw something in trash. DH woke up this am saying he thinks corner sink will be a pain b/c when standing at sink w/dishwasher open you will have to turn a bit behind yourself to load dishwasher. So now he wants to lean towards option 2. Quick discussion w/architect last night, he said we could steal some from the pantry desk area to widen aisle to better accommodate dining/seating area but not so sure I want o go there. No way to have it all huh? Thanks again for the advice so far & any else you have to offer before we meet w/architect at noon!...See MoreHelp pls - ques re ss, um sink/base dims (Ticor vs Elkay vs ?)
Comments (4)I'll rewrite this: "In some cases the "minimum" cabinet size reflects what is considered by some as the sink cabinet being wasted space and not saying that the cabinet may need to be amended to affect a fit" in another way: = = Usually, the size declared as "minimum" cabinet size is the safest size to give to the public because it involves no amending to make a fit. In reality, it wastes a fair amount of space when one adopts a strict optimizer point of view. -- Yes, in frameless boxes a 33 inch cabinet leaves 31.5 inches in the interior; and from a 36 inch cabinet leaves 34.5 inches. The amount of space available inside is 1.5" less than the width of the exterior. -- If your sink is greater than these dimensions (31.5" or 34.5") by an inch or a bit more, you MAY have to do some work cutting some of the chipboard out, to allow the sink rim to rest directly on the chipboard sides and also not be too high. OR' you could do no cutting, and instead add a strip of metal filler on top of the chipboard sides everywhere, to raise the level of the counter. I did this and I screwed the metal strips to the chipboard sides, thereby making a solid frame of all the cabinet boxes all screwed together, and also giving the counter a base to rest on that was better than resting it on the chipboard sides. Ta da!...See Morefly964
13 years agoebean
13 years ago
Gena Hooper
13 years ago
rococogurl
13 years agolala girl
13 years agofly964
13 years agoBritt
13 years agoigloochic
13 years agopeggross1
13 years agopeggross1
13 years agoFWIW, here is a picture of the Ticor sink -
The Ticor came with the grate seen in the picture --
And here is a picture of the Franke sink -
Inside of the Franke - had to pay extra for the grate in the bottom of this sink and the rubber feet have already been lost, so I now have sratches where the unprotected feet are! -
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