Thank you all for the support with this drama. I need it. So this KD's list of changes say only this for the countertop: "MAKE ALL NECESSARY ADJUSTMENTS TO C/TOPS IN KITCHEN". So I wrote back, saying this leaves way too much open for interpretation. I would like specifics in writing, for both of our sakes and the builders'. Such as, the countertop overhang will be even throughout with up to 1/8th inch variance (now it's anywhere from 7/8ths to 1 3/8ths). And, the overhang will be a minimum of 1 1/4th inches, for example. Things we should have had in the first place, and what I wanted and requested, but they went ahead and did their own thing. Her response: "We will make adjustments as necessary. Please just let me take care of this, and I'm sure you'll be satisfied with the final results." What???!! I contacted the builder, who said, " I was assured they are addressing your concerns so we will move on to things we need to do at this time." The builder has been cc'd on the email exchange above, but has remained silent on whether they think it is a good idea for the countertop company to actually specify what they are going to do. kirkhall, countertops and cabinets are already paid for, unfortunately. If this wasn't through a builder, I never would have paid for work 100% in advance. Also, I asked for specs and design in advance, several times, and never got them. loves2read, we went through several of their houses early on, but none recently and I don't remember the countertops. I'm pretty sure if we asked now to go through a few houses, they'd know exactly what we were after. I've tried to find some pictures of laminate clipped corners online and was having some difficulties finding good pictures. So the way it is going is that the countertop people told the builder they would fix it, and the builder said "okay good", and that was that. I am the one asking for how exactly and specifically they plan to "fix" it. Autumn, I thought 1.5" was industry standard too, and I think it is for granite. Laminate though seems to vary, and some places really do 1", although that makes no sense to me and I don't think it looks very good w/ full overlay doors. I called Home Depot and they said usually they do 1" overhang-- 25 inch counters. So I fear I may be stuck with the 1" overhang if they do manage to make it even. I try to get everything in writing, but the agreement on 1.5" was verbal, and she is claiming she never said it now. Which is why I did request the design template, which she didn't give me. ANYWAY, I feel you Autumn all the way as I am very detail-oriented too. It is really hard for me as well to let go, and I am especially hard on myself when I think I picked the wrong thing or let something go that I wished I hadn't, ect. And you DO have a gorgeous house. :-) Isn't perfection the enemy of good? The pursuit of perfection is also the enemy of happiness, in my opinion. Though I do it anyway.... The builder has been really good about fixing other sub mistakes. It is this KD, who is in charge of cabinets and countertops, who I've had issues with since the beginning. The builder's manager, who is our primary contact point, seems to be pretty good friends with her. And there is the issue right there. And why my battle is probably a losing one. But just venting and having your empathetic "ears" has been so very helpful. Thank you so much.

OK, here is a pic of the dishwasher with the new shim under it. Please excuse how grungy everything looks in its mid-construction state, gross! There is a similar block under the stove. One could also face these with the same materials the toe kicks are made out of. Hopefully this gives you get the idea of how we solved the problem of needing extra height. The new, raised countertop went in yesterday and the kitchen suddenly feels like it's built for grownups! Tonight will be our first night of cooking and chopping and we're looking forward to the test drive.

todds, "Trap Arm" may be the notion you may need to work with. A longer "Trap Arm" lets peninsula sinks be properly connected to vertical vents that are in the closest wall. The window/counter setup you described is the same as whatever DWV plumbing setup happens for sinks in peninsulas of all shapes. No window needed. In other words, go pick up vertical venting over where there is no window. a.f.a.i.k. a house must have lots of real venting and almost no Studor/AAV venting. This is serious, in houses where there are toilets on a second floor above the main floor. It is less serious in a single-level house because there is no drain plumbing above the main floor ((i.e. on a second floor). Studor/AAV vents transfer air only one way, so they handle only "positive pressure". Real vents allow air to move both ways; this is required in most arms of the DWV plumbing branching tree. How to handle effluent is a serious concern, so don't let internet strangers advise you on cutting corners. Only someone on site can see the geometry you have in your DWV plumbing in your house. DWV plumbing requires a lot of 3D thinking. Words written are almost never good enough to describe everything, unless the person writing is a Master Plumber and the person reading it has the same level of knowledge allowing him/her to interpret the precise words, and they happen to agree on what they mean. This can happen in forums inhabited by Master Plumbers. But even there, it requires a few posts for them to go back and forth to be sure about what they mean. For many years, I have been participating in forums inhabited by Master Plumbers (under another handle/name). If you posted diagrams that showed critical distances very clearly, you could receive some comments that help you see more clearly what options you might have, in your case. When a DWV plumbing system is not well designed, it allows e.coli, salmonella, dangerous gases, and fecal matter waste contamination to spread beyond the area that should have contained it. In DWV plumbing an exchange of air for water happens every time you flush. The Studor\AAV thingie is an imperfect thingie that will one day fail (years from now); when it fails risk and danger are increased by several orders of magnitude. Before it fails, it is unable to handle air moving both into and out of it : it only lets air in, when negative pressure pulls air into it. Just remember that the answer to the question about Studor\AAV vents is always "maybe" until your entire house plumbing is known to the answering party. Hth

Burntfingers: I can unequivocally recommend the Karbon faucet. It is so versatile in the positions you can put it in. It is actually kinda fun to use and there are no issues with the spray or it's reach. This faucet is one of my favorite items in the kitchen....weird but true! the cooktop is the Bosch series800 induction 36" and that was a great purchase too. The hood is also a Bosch and I choose it for the minimalistic design and the glass portion so you can see through to the backsplash. Michelle16 : your slab looks a lot like mine! You will love it and once away from the marble it won't seem so grey. It has been so easy to care for and I don't worry about anything staining or etching it!