Number of drawers in a stack
kfpwvt
11 years ago
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taggie
11 years agoWill your cabs be frameless or framed? With frameless, 4-drawer stacks are a slam dunk in my opinion. If framed, not sure how useful the narrower drawers would be; be sure you measure carefully re. what you plan to store in them.
We did 4-drawer stacks of 6", 6", 6" with 12" deep at the bottom. Works great for us; love being able to keep all utensils in the top two drawers spread out for easy accessibility, and love having bowls and pans at hand without major stacking.
I like your idea of 6", 8", 8", and 10". The 8" drawers would give you good flexibility for storage.
Here is what our two middle 6" drawers hold, to give you an idea:
badgergal
11 years agoRelated Discussions
allowable number of fixtures on one stack?
Comments (6)There are no limits to the actual number of or types of fixtures that may be connected to a stack. Instead of limits to the number or types of fixtures the code has a table listing all the types of fixtures that may be connected to a DWV (drain, waste & vent system) and the table defines the minimum drain & trap size for the fixture and it defines a specific DFU (drainage fixture unit) load value for the fixture. The code then has another table that lists all the listed pipe sizes and the maximum allowable load on each specific size of pipe for both vertical and horizontal application, expressed in dfu's. By example, a lavatory bowl is listed as requiring a minimum 1-1/4" drain & trap and it is assigned a load value of 1 dfu. A WC (water closet -commonly called a toilet) that has a flush of 1.6gallon/flush or less is listed as requiring a 3" drain and it has a load value of 3dfu's. When designing the DWV system we begin by making a list of all the fixtures in the house and computing the total dfu load. From that we can check the pipe size chart to determine the size of the house main drain and house sewer. We then lay out the branch lines from the main drain to each respective fixture or fixture group such as bathrooms, kitchens, laundry etc and we compute the dfu load for the branch. Here again, we check the pipe size table to determine the size of branch pipe required. The exception being that if any fixture in the group is required a line larger than the dfu load table requires, we must use the line size required by that fixture. An example,, A tub/shwer combo is 2dfu's, the lavatory 1dfu and the WC is 3dfu's for a total of 6dfu's. The pipe size table says a 2" pipe may carry up to 6dfu's, however because of the size of solids in the discharge from a WC code requires a WC to have a 3" drain and we cannot reduce the size of a line in the direction of flow so we would be required to make a branch serving a WC with 3" pipe. Next we have to consider the venting. A length of pipe running from a fixture trap to a vent is defined as a "Fixture arm" while any length of horizontal pipe from a vent downstream to the stack or main drain is defined as a "Vented Branch". When attaching fixtures to a vertical stack we may not attach any fixture to the stack by means of a fixture arm if it is below a WC being served by the stack. by example, your stack is serving a WC on the second floor so you may not connect a fixture arm directly to the stack on the first floor. The option would then be to install a separate stack for each floor or you could install a vent between the fixture traps on the first floor and the point where the line ties into the stack. In this configuration, the section of pipe from the trap to the vent is a fixture arm, but the section from the vent to the stack is a vented branch, which may be attached to the stack....See MoreDrawer help--39' wide stacks or break them smaller?
Comments (20)Breezy -- is it too late for this question? I agree that wide are nice and do eliminate the wasting of space that dividing into two drawers creates, from two 'sources', from the fitting-things-around-edges source, and from the width-of-cabinet-sides source. Between these there is significantly less space in two 19.5" drawers vs one 39" drawer. But note that there is variable loss from the fitting-things-around-edges source depending on what you put in the drawer. That is, with big, shapely items like, say, skillets or lasagna pans + something else, there can easily be large, unused spaces around drawer walls -- the hard suitcase in a car trunk paradigm. But with smaller, more easily malleable items (say, oven mitts), there is less loss near the edges of the drawers as you can fill in that space more easily. So large drawers lend themselves more critically to things like pans than smaller items. That said, rhome's point about opening a vastly oversized item for something smaller is important, I think (not that I've lived with my kitchen, only started putting things in). Stuff shifts and gets lost horizontally the same way it can get lost vertically. If you can afford the additional drawer and can plan in advance where what goes and can therefore estimate big-enough sizes, that would be best. I think it was buehl, maybe plllog, who had a link to how they planned their kitchen to a fare-thee-well (sp?) with labels for what goes in which drawers. While over-the-top, I recommend that method! Because really that's the only way you can get close to sizing the drawers properly. Stand in your mind's eye where you'll cook what and think about what you need at hand, then put the drawer there -- and label it! I kept forgetting what I thought was going to go where. If you have a ton of oven mitts (which are big), you're really not going to want, probably, to share them too much with something else, if you can avoid it. Try shaping a drawer for them alone-ish. Maybe have a split stack in the second row as well? Note that the size of the split needn't be equal; could be, say, 12"/27", e.g. Other considerations: cost. Each additional drawer was another $100 or so for me. So two 19.5-ers cost more than one 39", counter-intuitively. And as was noted above, that big drawer even just *empty* is heavy - it necessitates the heavy-duty glides, which are an additional cost. Awkwardness opening thin drawer? I think that depends on how thin, what's in it, placement of handles, among other factors. I have a 5.5" drawer front which translates to a 3.5" interior drawer. That seems thin, and it's long, 31.5". There may be a teensy amount of torqueing, making one-handed opening a little hard. It's not bad and I imagine as the drawer gets heavier with stuff it will get better. I think placing the handles more centrally helps. But this is deeper than the 4" you're talking about. I am guessing that's the drawer front, not interior. For my frameless cabinets, you lose 2" from the interior height for both top drawers and bottom drawers, just 1.5" from height for drawers in the middle of the stack. Here's a picture (and please note the cutting board drawer which I just love): And then I have a 3-stack that's under a short counter with a 5.25" ext cab on top that translates to just 3.25" interior. That's enough, barely, to fit a saran wrap box, but as those things like to spring open, I'm not sure whether they'll get stuck in practice. Here's a picture -- for reference the middle drawer is 8"ext/6.5"int and the bottom is 12.5"ext/10.5"int. I'm embarrassed to say I am actually able to fill that bottom drawer just with plastics and metals and *I just love it*. There is enough room for them all to have their tops and sleeves and the like. All that stuff just drives me crazy and having it all splayed out in that giant drawer is just heaven. And BTW, I had never noticed those streaks on the drawer to the right. They are there IRL, but are much less noticeable, the flash highlighted them. They are colorings of the natural wood; just fine by me.: So ... I am worried that 4"/4"/4"/7" just might translate to too little interior space -- just something for you to look into. There is another picture of a 4-stack on my photobucket which I think you can get to if you're interested just by clicking on one of the above photos. And there's a picture there of a thin drawer underneath the MW/convection, but it's not long -- it works just fine at 5"ext/2.875"int x 24"w (designed just for the oven racks, but holding hot pads too). HTH...See MoreIs 36 inches too wide for a drawer stack?
Comments (38)Gemcap and Terri_pacnw, the system in the drawers in just called drawer peg organizer. It does have a notch to remove it. Mine is the Rev-a-Shelf brand. It looks nice and keeps everything organized but I found out after the fact that it really isn't necessary if you have good soft close drawers. There have been a number of threads on these organizers which you should be able to find with a google search and the terms gardenweb + dish drawer organizers or peg dividers. Most GWers agree that you can stack dishes in drawers without the pegs and that the pegs actually waste some drawer space. Some posters did say they used some type of liners like cushy cupboards in their pegless drawers. Nothing really moves when I close my soft close drawers. So while the pegs look nice, I say save the cost. I am sure you can find something else to spend that extra money on....See MoreTop drawers in wide drawer stacks - one drawer or two?
Comments (16)I only have one wide stack, and I split the top in two - like Lisa_a, they are used for different things. One is potholders, which gets used all the time; the other is the junk/tool drawer, which is used far less (and at non-kitchen times). It may have been weird/awkward opening a 34" drawer ever time I needed a potholder. I would let function dictate. If you are using them both for similar things, definitely one....See Moremydreamhome
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