Butcherblock Countertops - finishing for scratch resistance
10 years ago
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- 10 years ago
- 10 years ago
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What compensation for installer scratching our butcherblock?
Comments (9)The great thing about waterlox is the ability to touch it up. Spot sanding and then redoing the waterlox might be a couple of hours worth of work. So, maybe a $100 credit. The "stain" on the marble is probably the dampness from the adhesive holding up the marble and that's seeping into it from the backside because of it's porosity. It should fade with time as it cures if they used silicone--as they should have. If they used construction adhesive, it has oils in it that will permanently stain the marble. And it grabs with such force that it will rip apart the drywall or cabinets should it fully cure and you attempt to remove the marble. So you need to figure out ASAP what adhesive they used for the job....See MoreIkea butcherblock countertop, anyone had water damage near sink?
Comments (9)FWIW, Pugler, we used Waterlox, a much more durable and water-resistant finish, and, since the sink area is "temporary" counter, set the undermount on top for now. As it is, though, we should have put additional coats in the hole for the faucet. There is a thin discolored ring around its edge that would make me uneasy about what we'd have if we had undermounted the sink. Certainly, I doubt mineral oil would have cut it long term without exceptional care. FWIW, our really noticeable problem is where the soap dispenser rises directly from the wood. The soap chemicals from occasional drips and drops not wiped up (DH the big culprit) started penetrating the finish fairly early on. Note that this is mostly a maintenance problem and could have been avoided, or greatly minimized, with greater care, the kind someone using mineral oil might do as a matter of course. Plus, mineral oil can be reapplied very quickly and easily, unlike Waterlox, whose fumes require relocating for a couple days and can't be kept stored for touchups for any length of time. Other options would have been a metal base plate (yuck), or, better choice for us, waiting to build one in because we've always planned to wrap this high-maintenance area with stainless steel eventually anyway. Also BTW, Waterlox has been beautiful and durable on all our non-soap/water counter areas....See MoreButcherblock counter finish help - Osmo over waterlox?
Comments (17)Osmo really needs to be applied to untreated wood. Osmo is a hardwax oil which works by penetrating into the wood, then building on the surface, then hardening as the volatile compounds evaporate. If you've already applied Waterlox, its oils will have penetrated the wood, and ordinary sanding is not going to remove this. I think you'll be much more satisfied with the effect of using just one or the other. We did a 50/50 prep on our 6-ft long maple island top. My carpenter told me that a locally famous chef for whom he'd done a kitchen had specified Osmo for the cutting surfaces, so we put that on the range end, which I use as a prep area (like a cutting board). The other end got Waterlox, as did the rest of the countertops (sapele). We did all this in late spring, when the temps were over 50, though a few nights dipped down. If it will consistently be below 50, I'd suggest using a heater (we can rent those contractor-type propane heaters around here, and used them in our construction before the heating system was ready.) I suspect you'll get a smoother, more even coat if you can keep the temps in the recommended range. The last coat of Waterlox went on nice and smooth; no problems with bubbles or touch up needed. It's beautiful, and so easy to care for, just wipe it down and it gleams. I also finished all my drawers (birch plywood, came sanded/unfinished) with Osmo, because after the first couple of days of outgassing, the rest of the curing time is pretty much non-toxic. I figured since the drawers would spend so much time closed, any outgassing would be concentrated, so for these I did want the least toxic product. Osmo is super easy to work with -- I applied it with rags. I spent day after day in the room with lots of Osmo. I kept the windows partly open -- need some air circulation and fresh air while it's wet. After the first couple of hours the smell was not a problem at all. They dried overnight sufficiently to lightly sand and apply a second coat. Now, several months later, they're so silky -- easy to clean -- no residual smell. A local guy finished my cabinet doors with Osmo -- that's all he uses, because he believes it's safer sooner than other products, as well as easy to work with. I picked them up the day after he'd finished, at which point they were smooth/dry to the touch, but still had the Osmo smell -- like cooking oil left out. The smell was gone in a day or two. Really, I love both of these products. I do like the way water just beads up on the Waterlox countertops, and for that reason, I also used Waterlox on all my fir window sills....See MoreButcherblock around the sink? Without waterlox??
Comments (20)We currently have butcher block on our island but not around our sink, but in our remodel, we are planning to use it around the sink. We also have figured that, for the price difference, we could replace all our countertops several times over. We are planning to add tile around the sink, similar to what is pictured here. Right now, I'm planning on a simple marble black splash only two high as in this picture: But this is the overall look I think we will aim for and use the same or matching marble tile around the sink. When I look at this picture, I can imagine the marble tile around the sink in the butcher block, too, looking nice. We also plan to use the Blanco silgranite drop in sink since I want a large single basin and really want white instead of stainless, but I did look into drainboard options, too, and it does seem practical. My current sink is a 1950s stainless with the fully integrated drainboard/counter similar to this one, and it is a workhorse, but since we plan to move our sink to an island, it won't work since it has a back that comes up, too, plus it is only 24" and I would like a larger one. However, if your sink is against a wall, it might be an option since it would act as a piece of counter between your butcherblock. It is pricey new, but I have seen them on Craigslist for cheap. I did save the image that eam44 shared and had priced out a similar option, but it was still pretty pricey. So far, the tile option seems and affordable alternative that we think we can do ourselves....See More- 10 years ago
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