It looks nice to have under cabinet lights all on at once and one switch may be more convenient than running around the room. But, if you want maximum energy effiency and just want task lighting for one spot at a time go with separate switches. Some fixtures have small rocker switches on them which will let you have both.

I did look at that link, and it helped, but I was still confused. But I ended up calling Armacost, and they were incredibly helpful and sent me a UCL design for my kitchen and told me exactly what to buy and how to wire it. So we're putting in one power source and are hard wiring it and I know exactly what to tell the electrician today. And it will cost under $200!

Hmmm?? I have LED and I love them. They are so nice and bright and don't get hot. They were kinda $$ but I am so glad I spent the money becasue we use them all the time and I love them.

I saw this thread of posts regarding Seagull (low-voltage) Ambiance Lighting. Here's some responses to several questions. 1. "Clear or frosted bulbs?" Personally I would suggest 'clear' for task lighting, 'frosted' if you'll be able to see the actual bulb. 2. "5W or 10W bulbs?" I use 10 watt for task, 5 watt (in some cases) often for behind glass doors. As a rule, I generally use 10 watt. 3. "I can't find stranded 10/2 anywhere, only solid copper?" For the actual wire where the bulb holders clip in, you must use their 'stranded 10-2 wire' (9373-12 or 9373-15 : 100' rolls), available in white or black (yes it is pricey). If you purchase another brand of stranded 10-2, make sure it fits the Seagull wire holder. 3a. NOTE: BY CODE, YOU MAY NOT RUN THIS STRANDED CABLE IN THE WALLS OF YOUR HOME. Rough wire using Romex. 4. "...Dimmers?" If you're using a Magnetic tranformer, you should use a magnetic dimmer. They do cost more money. Remember, you are dimming the line voltage to the transformer ... not dimming the low voltage output from the transformer. 5. "...Spacing?" General rule of thumb is one bulb holder every 4 to 6". 6. "Since this is low voltage, there is not requirement that you use Romex, which you will not find stranded." UNTRUE! You cannot (by Code) run the 10-2 stranded in the wall. 7. "Isn't 10/2 a little heavy? Is it a 20A circuit? I'd think 12/2 would be fine for in-wall." Your wire inside the walls should be 10-2 Romex for 12 volt systems and (can be) 12-2 Romex for 24-volt systems. 8. As suggested in one post, DO make sure your low voltage output is properly fused. Just because it's low-voltage, don't think that it can't be dangerous. 9. Break up your 'homeruns'. For example: If you have lights to the left and right of the sink, make 2 separate homeruns. Likewise, left and right of the cooktop, 2 separate homeruns. Don't try to run the entire kitchen low-voltage system on one homerun. Splice/Junctions: You aren't supposed to do any splices in the wall. The Romex comes out below the cabinet int a Seagull (9459-12, 9459-15) 'Compartment/Splicer'. This will splice Romex to their stranded.