Why not all drawers? Put in a 15" drawer unit and a 24" drawer unit. Some people even put in 39" drawer units although I'm not sure how useful they would be for you.What would the cabinets be used for? A 24" drawer is fine with one pull but it can be an individual taste wrt aesthetics.
Both the 15" and the 24" sizes would be useful for a variety of things.

Drawers!! So much more likely to do something involving equipment or supplies stored in them. I avoid my base cabinets like the plague. So i'm replacing them with DRAWERS!

One place I would do base cabinets is if you want a cabinet for trays and then I would have the builder put in some dividers for you. Note: I have also seen here where people did some nice dividers for trays in the cabinet above their fridge, as another option.

It would be helpful to first figure out what you plan on storing there. When you have listed it all, then go with the configuration that would work best for those items.

If you want to store frequently used pots and pans, I would go for at least a 30" 3 drawer base. You could put a 9" pull out type cabinet (the kind that the door is attached and pulls out like a 2 tier smaller version of the trash cabinet) for frequently used range items like oils, salt etc next to it. For me, the most flexible option is to do the 39" reinforced 3 drawer base suggested by blfenton, but again it depends on what you need to store there.

I used single pulls on my 32" 3 drawer base even though a kitchen designer told me that the standard is to put 2 there. I think it looks fine and works much better for me.

Thanks, I did make a list last night to see what I have going on currently. If I did the one 15" lower cabinet in lieu of 3 additional drawers, I'm wondering how useful the cabinet would be as it would be fairly narrow and deep. Something not used much in the back and then maybe pet food cans in the front is what I was coming up with. Currently I have a reduced counter with an inset and shallow cabinet below so loosing things is not an issue other than in the sink base. The KD (big box) put 15" drawers in as 'very useful' (and I know I would like them) with a 24" drawer/cab configuration next to it. That cabinet would require opening the 2 doors to get to the 2 rollouts which I'm not so sure about for a frequently used area.

I do have four other drawers in the kitchen on the other side in a breakfast bar. They're probably about 8" x 8" internal space and used for odd items right now. It's undersized cabinet depth. 21" maybe, I don't recall.

My original plan was a large bank of drawers because I hear they are more useful and I love the look. I'm not sure how practical it would be in terms of making the best use of my daily storage which is pretty limited in such a small kitchen.

So you can never have too many drawers and not enough cabinets for your everyday access space? Do you find with the drawers that you are looking down on things and can't see the labels of what things are as with a cabinet? I am the type to loose anything in the back if it didn't have rollouts, as far as placing items that would be used on any regular frequency would go. I need to see things.

I'll have to look at the configuration with all smaller drawers. Aesthetics is definitely a consideration for me! But I don't want to be foolish and choose too much based on what I like looking at.

IMHO, you can never have too many drawers! I have all drawers and love it. In my old kitchen, I had all drawers except for two cabinets and a super susan. I loved the drawers more than the cabinets. The only item that didn't fit in the drawers was: cookie sheets/cutting boards. HTH.

It sure sounds like all drawers is the way to go. I am loving that idea. Cabinets really are a pain and I do have some.

Here is a drawer bank. The two large drawers aren't aligning with the left bank. Hopefully it doesn't get thrown off so that you can't do a 4 beside a 3. I believe the KD's drawing that I chopped up is partial overlay whereas the cabinets I'm now decided on are full. Maybe the full overlays will align properly.

Do you think this looks alright? I think the KD said if I had a bunch of drawers it would get confusing which was what so he put a cabinet on the one side. I think I like the looks of this better than having a double door cabinet in the mix.

That's a pullout next to the range.

Drawers.

1 - It's one motion to open a drawer, and two to open the cabinet and rollout.

2 - You can partly open a drawer to grab something from the front. You have to fully open the cabinet doors to get to the rollout.

It depends on what you planning on putting in them. Take time to visualize and measure where everything will go.

Drawers are nice. I don't have problems 'losing' stuff since small stuff goes in the short drawers and things aren't allowed to pile up on each other. You can also buy many types of organizers that will help. We did need at least one base cabinet with roll-outs. It fits the larger pots that wouldn't have fit in the drawers. They also make pots/pan racks.

Be aware that both drawers and roll outs decrease the usable space. (assuming face framed cabs here)
- For a 24" cab, standard shelves are 22-3/16" wide
- For a 24" cab, roll-outs are 19-3/4" wide
- For a 24" cab, drawers are 20-1/2" wide
- For a 15" cab, standard shelves are 13-3/16" wide
- For a 15" cab, roll-outs are 10-3/4" wide
- For a 15" cab, drawers are 11-1/2" wide
I *think* this is usable space but if it includes the drawer box, subtract another inch.

You're right that 15" cabs are narrow and deep, and they become even more narrow when you have roll outs or drawers. However, the easy access of the roll-outs can allow you to utilize the back area better. It's up to you, what your needs are, but think about what you're putting in them.

Are these cabs next to each other? If they are you might find a better configuration such as making the 24" wider and making the 15" base slimmer such as a tray or spice rack cab instead. Or have you considered making the 15" a trash cab? I don't know your layout but if they're next to each other you'll have more options.

The one advantage that a cabinet with roll outs has over drawers is that you can change the height of the roll outs. Other than that, drawers are more useful.

We have almost all drawers and find them useful - we don't find it confusing. The layout is logical based on sizes and how things are used. If the cabinets are frameless, the useable width of a drawer or pull out can be more than 3" less than the cabinet width (two cabinet sides plus two drawer or pullout sides plus a bit of space between them). For framed, you lose a little bit more.

That's why it might be better to go with one cabinet than two. Can you get a 39" wide drawer unit in your cabinets?

If you can't do one 39" wide cabinet, I agree with those who suggest going wider on the drawers and a narrow cabinet. For instance:

30" drawer
9" pullout

or

33" drawer
6" pullout

It can get difficult to pack pots and pans into 24"

Shelves in a narrow pullout unit could hold spices and bottled items (oils, vinegars, condiments) It doesn't matter that it is narrow because it pulls out fully - you don't have to reach into the back. Your pet food cans could also go on one.

Do you have storage elsewhere for big flat items like baking sheets, trays, cooling racks? That can be another good use of a narrow cabinet. Since they are long, they fill the space from front to back so you don't need to reach the back of the cabinet. We use one 12" cabinet for those. It is a pullout cabinet, but we put them on the bottom of the cabinet because the pull out would waste an inch of height. That takes about 13" (half sheet pans lying on their sides) so you can put a pullout or two above the tray area.

One handle is fine for 24" and higher. Our 30" drawer under the ovens has one handle. We have 2 handles on our 36" pot and pan drawers for looks. Even the deep heavily loaded 36" pot and pan drawers open easily when we pull one of the two handles so two aren't needed for functionality.

Thanks! I am so happy you helped me decide what to do. Things have come full circle and I'm able to get some great big drawers like I originally dreamed of. It will be so much better than the cabinet and smaller drawer set and I love the way they look.

Thanks for all the additional information and help. It's so great to have forums these days. You people do a great job helping people sort this stuff out!

Looking at hardware for the drawers, I've always liked the drop handles. Now getting to a purchase, I'm thinking it could be cumbersome. Maybe the fixed pulls are easier and also wouldn't mar the finish from use (fingernails and the dropping back of the handle against the drawer). What are your thoughts on pulls?

For a kitchen, definitely fixed pulls. Think about grabbing a handle with wet hands. With a drop, you have to touch the drawer front to get a good hold on it.

It really is a matter of what specific items are being put inside the cabinets. I believe to the right of the sink base a drawer base is your best option to store all various cutlery items. The B24 next to it can go either way depending on what's going in there. Keep in mind you will lose space with the roll-outs for the inside track. Aesthetically, the all drawers looks better.

Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchen Cabinet Kings

totally agree with lazygardens. that's the reason we don't use our roll out cabinets at all. what a waste.

That was the first KD's recommendation. 2 door with rollout which at first seemed good to have rollouts. I am so glad I didn't order anything yet!

Wide drawers are awesome! If you can't go with a 39", then do the next biggest size and do a pullout for the narrow cab.

If you did a 36" to the left of the stove, you would make the cab on the other side wider by 3". You'd have to adjust the uppers as well. I think that would make the right side of the stove area more useful rather than a skinny strip of counter space.
You could also put in a wider sink cab and go with a 36" drawer bank. You would have the same amount of counter space, but have more storage below the sink. You would adjust the uppers accordingly...

just so we've noted this in the discussion, if you use wire rollouts, you can have items stick out over the edge--handles of pots, for example. Also, you can see into the area even when it's closed or partly closed--can't do this with a drawer.

I've put my pots and pans into a two-shelf lower cab with Lyck wire rollouts and don't regret it, except that if the cab were just a tad wider I could have bought the next size up for the rollouts. Be sure to investigate rollout sizes and compatibility with hinges before you make decisions for rollouts.

I have some old cabinets that were retrofitted with rollouts quite a few years ago (thanks, MIL!) The rollouts are *so* much better than the static shelves were. I have some 15" cabs by the stove where I keeps pots, and even that narrow, the rollouts are a great improvement.

Now we've ordered new cabs to be used in the same small space as before. We went with all drawers on the bottom. The rollouts were an improvement over the static shelves, and the drawers are an improvement over that. The drawers will give us significantly more useable space than the rollouts.

>Also, you can see into the area even when it's closed or partly closed--can't do this with a drawer.

Are you saying you don't have any doors there, florantha? Trying to visualize.

I'm glad Suzannes1 has her question answered and her issue resolved. For future readers, I've linked several threads discussing drawer base configurations, one or two pulls per drawer, and drawers vs roll out tray shelves (ROTS) (a.k.a., pull out shelves). [KDs and cabinetmakers usually call them "ROTS".]

Thread: Drawers or doors with pull outs?
Thread: 3 or 4 drawers per cabinet stack?
Thread: Drawers over pull outs in Cabinets
Thread: Need help: 1 or 2 pulls on kitchen cabinet drawers?
Thread: Show me pics of your cabinet hardware placement please :-)
Thread: How many pulls on 36'' pan drawers?
Thread: number of cabinet pulls

Getting at items in the front...with ROTS, you still have to open the door(s) b/f you can even see what's in the front of an ROTS, then you have to close the door(s) (and move out of the way of the doors). With drawers, you only have to pull the drawer out enough to retrieve the item and then close it...no having to stand aside or step back to open the door(s)...just far enough to open the drawer (and standing right next to it, not a step or two away).

Regarding items sticking out over the edges in framed (overlay and inset) cabinets...Sticking out over the front edge is fine, but there really isn't much room b/w the door and the ROTS. Sticking out over the sides, however, can be an issue...those handles, etc. can get hung up on the face frame and, if you force them, can ding/gouge your face frames and knock other items around (even off the ROTS). Frameless cabinets don't have a frame so it's not an issue (as long as the hinges aren't in the way) and this can be an advantage...but does this advantage outweigh some of the disadvantages? Only you can decide for yourself.

(Florantha...are you speaking about framed or frameless cabinets? Did you mean sticking out over the front, sides, or both?)

Thanks for all the links. I'll have to look through them. I am so glad I didn't order anything yet as this has been immensely helpful.

I'm going with a 36" bank and agree that the 9" counter/cabinet is probably better at 12" as much as I want to hang onto a wider prep area. (Currently the stove is against the wall. I really like the wide counter area but not the range next to the wall so much so it's going.)

On drawer depth. Usually I see these with the two deep drawers and love them. Roomy and beautiful. Reading around (and I see another link above), I'm wondering if you find the shallower drawers are more useful in general. Since I don't have a lot of cabinetry, which I choose for my primary access could make a big difference. So do you find the 4-5 drawer units are more useful generally than the 3-4 drawer units with two deep drawers? Someone here (link) was talking about wasted space in them and doing only one deep on the bottom. I think one of the KDs viewed them that way. I have a nice set of pots & pans but not tons of them. The larger ones that I don't use as often will probably go into the closet.

What is your experience? Mine is limited. More bang from the shallow drawers or the deeps are more useful and versatile when space is terribly prime? I'm thinking maybe the upper cabinets are sufficient for the taller or bulkier food items. I was looking through drawers at friends/relatives and it seems even the shallower drawers have quite a bit of lost space.

This is where I'm at. So happy with the wide drawers! I'm also going back and forth on the two drawers on the top. I was considering a two tier utensil unit which which looks awesome, doubling the space. But since the levels are so shallow and I don't have oodles of flatware, I'm wondering how useful it really is. I don't have the space to lay out specialty utensils (which might be bulkier) individually for ease in finding them.

Here is a link that might be useful: shallower drawer banks with one deep

The new pix look much nicer aesthetically and I think the function will work better for you. I love my 3drawer stack because I do have a bunch of pots and cookware that uses the height well. I also put the most used pot in the middle drawer and so not to be going so low for the bottom all the time. I like my 4 drawer stack for my utensils and such. Single layer is better in that regard.

What does it look like with one drawer on top as well? I'm asking b/c two drawers like that waste space...you now have the walls of two drawers and the space b/w them taking up space. A wide drawer can very easily be partitioned, but two narrower drawers limit your space...and in a small kitchen I would not want to reduce my storage any more than absolutely necessary.

As to 3 vs 4 (or more) drawers in a stack...like others have said, it depends on what you plan to store in them. I find shallow drawers very useful for: Linens (towels, dishcloths, microfiber cloths)
Pot holders
Silverware
Cooking & Prepping Utensils & Knives
Plastic bags & wraps, foil, parchment paper, etc.
Batteries & other electrical (extension cords, adapters, etc.)
Junk drawer (most of us end up with one!)

None of these work well in a deep drawer b/c theses are not the types of things you want to have rummage around for. However, if you like the look of the 3-drawer stacks, then consider getting some of those ROTS that you can install inside a deep drawer making it, in effect, the equivalent of a shallow drawer & medium-depth drawer. For myself, I would consider this a very acceptable compromise of form over function.

I'm liking this new layout better too. Of course, which one is more functional depends on what you got to put in 'em.

For me, the 3-4 drawer unit with two deep drawers would be more functional. The reason is pots, pans, and plastic containers for leftovers. I think I would need more than one large deep drawer, and I think there's enough shallow drawers for my collection of utensils and cooking gadgets. If you have extra room in the deep drawers, it could be where you place your plates and bowls.

RHS of the range, I might put open shelves under the counter. Or, one drawer at the top and then open shelves under it. There are three good reasons for this. One is if I wanted to save $1000 or two. Additionally it's a good spot for the place you will need to store many flat things (placed vertically not horizontally). Then, the third reason is to get your money's worth in practical terms, best summed up as "avoiding disappointment", because drawers in that small space will be tiny and will hold far less and be far less "performing and yielding" than you may be currently imagining what they are capable of performing. You may find drawers to be unsatisfactory there. They are narrow = ergo they can only hold small things.

The 2 drawers on top of the drawer stack help divide your stuff.
The top drawers are shallow in a 3 drawer stack, so you get both options.
The 4 drawer stack holds less volume than a 3 drawer stack. I have some pots and pans (or lids) on top of each other within the deep drawers in my 3 stack, as giving each piece its own space would take up way too much linear space. It is all so much easier than digging through a cab with a shallow static shelf and is similar to roll outs, only even easier.

Our 4 drawer stack holds silverware, utensils, zip lock bags, plastic utensils, and the bottom drawer is for insulated lunch bags and other portable items that are not used day in and day out. It is only 18" wide and that is ideal for what is in it. Wider might seem odd for the shallow ones. The 2 drawer tops on my 36" stacks are the same width as these.

Another idea for the stack to the right of the stove: How about a base cabinet with pull out storage?

This picture isn't exactly right, but the catalog shows a 9" base cab that looks just like this. You could keep salt, pepper, herbs, oil, soy sauce, etc. on these 3 shelves. The shelves are adjustable so you could make a larger space for the oil & Pam and smaller for the oregano & basil.

Yes it does look so much better and works better too. I shudder if I'd ordered the first KDs plan. So not me, either.

Looking at some of the smaller food items that might go in the shallower drawers. Jars (heaviers like sauce, peanut butter), cans (soups, tomatoes get heavy), maybe laid on their side if a bit tall. That could get rather heavy. The standard size narrower drawers can handle all this stuff without sagging or pulling on the hardware too much? This will be all plywood construction. Do you think this is a poor application for the standard drawers?

I will likely keep a lot of my containers and pans in the closet. I don't seem to have half the stuff I see people storing but somehow still have a lot of items, many seem smallish for the big drawers but maybe too big for the standards unless on their side.

I don't seem to have half the stuff I see people storing...

Ha! That stuff is a lot like tribbles, they multiply like crazy if you don't keep a good eye on them.

Thanks for all the input. I didn't see them earlier due to an interruption.

Looking through the stuff I have presently, I'm thinking the deeper drawer could hold either plates and glasses or potentially dry and canned goods that aren't terribly tall. Whereas if I do the standard shallower size, my dishes and plates will be locked to the uppers. (Where they are now doesn't work well and I need more than I currently have.) A cabinet on the opposite wall is a possibility but it skews things so I'm not sure that will actually work well or even happen. So.

I've got 4 small reduced depth drawers already (reduced depth so interior of 8w x 5h x 11d), not good for wraps etc, unfortunately.

The standard top drawer on the bank.

And the 4 12-inchers next to the stove.

So maybe I've got enough of those smaller type drawers for bulky utensils, some pot holders or towels, and such.

I was told Shenandoah doesn't have a 12-inch rollout. Odd that they do offer a 9 inch. A 9 is pegged for next to the d/w on the opposite wall. Open shelves are above that now. It seems narrow and hard to see some of the shelves on the rollout but they are adjustable. I might have to remove one.

I agree the two drawer upper on the bank might need to go. That's a rolling pin, masher, or a box of saran. I probably can't afford to loose that space. I think I will nix the 2-tier utensil tray which looked so useful, doubling some space up. They are pricey and the shelf depth is so narrow (1-1/4 and 1-1/2). Maybe a luxury in a large kitchen but possibly not so useful as it looks so a waste for someone like me. I don't have a ton of flatware to worry about but lots of miscellaneous tools of various sizes and heights it seems.

Mixing bowls, tupperware, larger pots and pans I don't use daily so would probably find comfortable in the closet or possibly a spot on the wall for some pans. Then again, I have to think of resale and make it functional for typical use.

It's so hard when the amount of cabinetry is so limited. I haven't been cooking much the last decade but had enjoyed it and was wanting to get more into it again. I expect my needs to change so want to plan for what generally works and to maximize what space there is here and its flexibility. I wish that d/w wall weren't so awkward and could do an upper cabinet without a hitch. Not too sure about that right now.

Samantha, I think I may have unintentionally misled you. The pullout that might go to the right of your range that I linked to isn't from the Shenandoah catalog; I didn't know which cabinets you were looking at. I was actually looking at the InnerMost catalog because I have one here at home. I can't tell from the Shenandoah site what they have in this configuration. I just assumed that what one manufacturer has, the others might well have something similar. So sorry, I should have explained that better.

Other lines I was looking at did offer the 12". I'm surprised they would offer a 9" but not a 12". I'd think that was pretty standard and more useful.

You didn't mislead me! Thanks.

Shenandoah does make 12" bases with rollouts in some configurations. For example, they have a "B12 2FWT" which is base with two deep roll out trays. Keep in mind the width of the roll out tray is 7-3/4" wide here. I'm not sure if this is the type of roll out you were referencing...

Here is a link that might be useful: Shenandoah Spec Book

I see, the rollout. He didn't mention them, just that there were no pullouts at 12". Thank you. I wonder if the hardware on them would loose additional space versus a drawer.

How do ROTS for the deep drawers work. How can there be space for a drawer to open within a drawer? I'm not understanding this. On another thread a poster was also saying he had made some sort of stacked drawers for two layers in his deep drawers but it wasn't explained how they work.

Maybe like this

When you open the drawer as usual, you get the drawer in your hand plus the slider that sits above the one in your hand but behind the drawer face. They look very cool and I've heard people report that they find them useful. Most lines seem to offer this option.

Oh that is spectacular! This wasn't mentioned as an option but I've seen they sell all these organizers separately for post-install.

I just love the storage tiers! I think those would work beautifully with deep drawers to catch that extra bit at the top. I guess 36" might be another story of course. Maybe I should shift to a 3 drawer 12-inch at the stove from the 4 drawer option. I sure wish I had more drawers to work with in here!

Thank you!

Roll Out Trays often (at least with Shenandoah) have their hardware on the sides, so you do lose some width compared to drawers with full access glides. For a 12" base the difference is 8.5" vs 7.75."

Note that I've doubled-checked and all measurements I've given now and in previous posts do include the wood frame... so you have to reduce the "usable" width by 1.25 inches." The dimensions in the parts directory (located at the end of the complete guide pdf) includes the drawer/shelves walls.

Those cabs that Suzannesl is mentioning are pretty cool - but you'll have to check is Shenandoah has this option as I don't remember seeing them myself. Rev-A-Shelf may also have attachments to help utilize organization, they're worth checking out if you haven't.