I've only used it on like woods - oak on oak and walnut on walnut, which turned out beautifully. I honestly don't know if it can be used as a stain. Have you asked on the GW Antiques forum?

The Howard's Feed 'n Wax left a slight residue on the walnut desk which transferred to paper, but that didn't last long.

The site shows the various 'colors' it comes in and gives useful info.

Here is a link that might be useful: Restore a Finish site

I just used mahogany RAF on an oak table top. It was a light yellow oak. It is now a medium wood tone with a reddish tint. The grain in the oak is more pronounced. It looks so much better than it did. I cleaned it first with build-up remover that I had on hand. Applied the RAF and bees wax. I also changed my lights to reveal bulbs at the same time. Wish I could figure out how to post pics, that function is over my head. Hope this helps.

Moonshadow- Thanks, I had a strong suspicion that would be the case, oak is oak, and Howard's is more like a first aid kit, not intended for major operations?!?! I was wondering about using a custom mix of gel stains, to cover more of the grain, but is that like dyeing a zebra brown- still will have stripes but of the same shade? I can't decide if it is the color, or the oak-ugh!

Ibmudpie, thanks for replying, I have a time with pictures too, and hesitate to try too.:) I think it'll probably be best to try RAF on something smaller than my dining table. Some pictures do turn out great though don't they?

Want to retire, I sensed the antique forum gets a bit snarky to novices, and could just imagine the range of answers I might get. :)From are you crazy? to My dear girl...

I brought up the table scenario this morn to DH and he is aware I may be lugging one home this weekend. Poor guy, probably wondering how many of these monstrosities he's going to have to lug up to the attic. On the up side, he didn't blink an eye!

We have been using the waxes sold on this page for re-coloring items, from handrails to floors to furniture. The in-house brands are a very hard (carnuba?) wax, and go on with a strong turpentine smell, while the Liberon wax smells delightful (beeswax) but is softer and the color not as positive-acting.
This vendor also sells products to give color to the surface of articles in other ways, like tinting some padding lacquer with a powdered pigment or dye, if you are brave!
Casey

Here is a link that might be useful: Wood Finishes

hmmm...interesting stuff at that link, Casey, I bookmarked it to browse more thoroughly later. Some of it does look like it takes some courage (or a lot of practice first!).
;)

never_ending said Moonshadow- Thanks, I had a strong suspicion that would be the case, oak is oak, and Howard's is more like a first aid kit, not intended for major operations?!?! I was wondering about using a custom mix of gel stains, to cover more of the grain, but is that like dyeing a zebra brown- still will have stripes but of the same shade? I can't decide if it is the color, or the oak-ugh!
lol, you have a way with words! Yes, oak is oak, and even within that species, red oak behaves differently than white when finished. If you don't like the grain, gel stains will make it POP. Oak is very porous and sucks up stain when bare naked. All those grain lines and dots (pores) will get darker with each coating of stain, but the surrounding wood does not do absorb to the same degree. A deeper stain laid on heavy will develop a zebra with really brown stripes. ;) If you're talking about gel stain over existing poly, I'm not a fan of that method. I've seen others here do it, but in reality stain is meant to absorb into wood, a poly coat creates a barrier that prevents absorption, so essentially the gel is sitting on poly. It will eventually dry, but myself, I question the longevity and durability. Especially on a piece like a table that gets a lot of use.

None of us here is going to think less of you for bringing home random tables. Think we've all been there at some point with something. If you DH starts giving you that 'have you lost your mind' look, send him here, we'll sit him down and 'splain to him there is a method to this madness. ;D Your oak pedestal table is not an undesirable piece. I'd encourage you to continue your search till "The Table" surfaces (and it will). And then consider reselling the oak?

I did this very thing! (with stain & poly) I have an old mahogany table & needed a replacement pedestal. I went to an auction and found an oak one that matched the existing table legs. I was thrilled & figured being under the table no one would notice the difference in wood grain. I was right! If it were a stand alone piece.....well.........I also have a cherry server in the same room. So I mixed woods. I'm not saying if I went shopping for a new set I would do this again....I wouldn't. But.....back then....just saying my tastes have changed.

I also bookmarked that page too, makes me wonder what is possible. Casey you are very talented and knowledgeable about all things wood, I have followed your kitchen and waterlox floors for the last couple years. Thanks for answering.

I feel like this is confession time. This whole table thing did look lighter and more orange in my dining room than I planned, and I had been toying with with darkening it a bit but really was in no rush...then I found the most FABULOUS re-sale shop with rooms and rooms of estate items at can't beat prices.

So now I have run into a darker mahogany or walnut table (will be checking tomorrow) and I already have a mahogany china cabinet I need to shuffle around into the dining room for the holidays, and thought hmmm, why not move it there permanently and build around it since it is family piece and I love it. Yes, this is a V8 moment arriving a bit late in the day, after acquiring the oak set, of which I never wanted the chairs anyway (DH said to get them in case I ever wanted a matching set, which of course I don't) and I've known that all along!

So now that I have sinned and Moonshadow has forgiven me, and knows I may sin again....:) let me continue on with this very boring table problem.

I do have to say Nicole, that pedestal looks terrific and now I'm wavering again. If a bit of hard work could work out, should I take the chance? I will paint anything and have, but wood makes me nervous and I was going to do a gel stain 2 step glaze (1st a brown, and then a mahogany) over the existing finish and then poly, exactly against Moonshadow's recommendation.

Now I think I am talking to myself, but you all can listen and add suggestions if you like!

I will first check out siren table tomorrow, because it may be too dark, and being Goldilocks I might not like it, so I could come home and still consider the staining project. Maybe oak grain is okay if it is a brownish red? Or is mahogany colored oak table tops really ugly and Nicole's piece is just teasing me?

I just don't know if now the grain of the oak might read zebra, or it might just be fine.

I do have to say Nicole, that pedestal looks terrific and now I'm wavering again. If a bit of hard work could work out, should I take the chance? I will paint anything and have, but wood makes me nervous and I was going to do a gel stain 2 step glaze (1st a brown, and then a mahogany) over the existing finish and then poly, exactly against Moonshadow's recommendation.

You haven't sinned, lol. Don't take my methods as gospel ;). It seems like when it comes to working with wood, everyone has their routines and habits they stick to, whatever has worked for them. (As evidenced in the Antique Forum, so many die hard and different methods for cleaning up cruddy pieces lugged home.) And don't let wood scare you. The beauty (and the PIA) of it is that you can't do anything to it that can't be undone. Undoing it and redoing it is work tho (the PIA part of the equation). Bear in mind when I'm talking oak's grain popping, I'm talking naked oak. (Sorry, kind of take for granted we're talking naked wood when it comes to applying stain, cuz it's the traditional method.) If you're doing a gel stain over poly method, it's not going to make the grain pop because gel can't get to the grain. That poly is the barrier. So the only thing the gel stain is 'tinting' is the poly itself, not the actual wood beneath. So in that regard, theoretically you could achieve a more uniform tint. But coming out of more traditional methods of refinishing wood, it's just a method where I question how much mileage one would get out of it. My other concern would be if it did not get you the result you wanted, getting the gel stain off without compromising the original finish underneath could prove very tricky at minimum. (I hope that makes sense, I'm fighting a wicked headache this morning, and it's not because I had too much fun last night.)

Here's a mahogany desk I refinished & restored(stain & poly) a couple of months ago. As long as the reddish color is the same..... I could see these 2 pieces together in the same room, just because the coloring matches.
{{gwi:1491423}}

I just tried the RAF for the first time, on an old basin stand, and I was very impressed with how it turned out. It was already a dark color and I used Mahagony RAF, but it really did even out the light spots and made it really purdy :) I wish I had a before and after pic. but here's after. it was very dull looking before.

{{!gwi}}

Restor-a-Finish does have stain in it and it is not temporary. If you have a piece that is really old and has layers of dirt, wax and gunk, then you need to try to remove that first before doing anything else. The finest steel wool rubbed against the grain with some elbow grease will remove years of build-up.

Then wash with Murphy's Oil Soap and dry thoroughly, then use the Restor-a-Finish. You can use steel wool to apply but I don't since I use the steel wool to remove old wax and dirt.

Restor-a-Finish is meant as an alternative to stripping - it is not meant to make your furniture look new - it is meant to preserve the patina on old pieces and put a little stain in scratches,water marks, etc....just renews a bit that is all.

Most people over-wax their furniture. A build-up of wax does dull your furniture and wax does trap dirt. That is why it is important to only apply wax a couple times of year...then when it starts looking dull - you need to buff up that shine - kind of like polishing silver - buff, buff away.

Forgot to mention that it is really important to follow the directions on the Feed-N-Wax...you apply and let it haze over and then buff.