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Need compliment to BM Golden Straw in orange shade

16 years ago

I need some expert help. I painted my Living Room in Benjamin Moore's Golden Straw (love it!) Now after a dozen paint samples, I can't find a good orangish tone for our kitchen and the rooms are open to each other, sharing one wall. The kitchen tile is a medium orange terracotta with some grey and copper tones, countertops are a beige (slightly yellow undertone)with a copper fleck, and the cabinets are medium brown. The best that I have tried is SW Sweet Orange, but it is on the pink side, which is still ok maybe. Please, please if anyone has any ideas in either BM or SW colors let me know :)

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Comments (3)

teacats
16 years ago
Paint colors to check out:

Sherwin Williams (SW) "Eminent Bronze" SW #6412 (goldish/green wonderful color)

Also: SW "High Tea" #6159 (interesting taupe-green-gray)

Also: SW "Gingery" #6363
Also: SW "Copper Mountain" #6356
Also: SW "Pennywise" #6349

Benjamin Moore (BM) "Nantucket Gray" #HC-111 (gray-green-sage)

Benjamin Moore "Greenfield Pumpkin" #HC-40 (deep burnt pumpkin)

Benjamin Moore "Middlefield Brown" #HC-68

And remember that you could add a teastain glaze over a pumpkin or orange tone to literally darken it to suit your room -- check out Ralph Lauren's Teastain glazes at polo.com
weenbean
Original Author
16 years ago
Oh, teacats you have my head astirring! I am so AFRAID of the colors on the bottom of SW paint swatches and here you have me seriously looking at Copper Mountain, Gingery and Eminent Bronze.. oh my! Intriguing though. Copper Mtn and Gingery are about the shades of the darkest flecks in the tile, so I know you are right on here. I would be braver if my kitchen were not north facing, getting zero sun. (Can I go this dark without adequate light?) Are you suggesting that vering toward the gray-green-gold spectrum might be a better move?
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Thanks everyone..... wi-sailorgirl, thanks for the tip! I will check it out. Going to try to go over to the house today to compare windows to the White dove......sure does look like it would be close. dawnp, thanks for the confidence! I really appreciate it. You wouldn't happen to have any pics of your White Dove??? valinsv, I was thinking along those lines but thought that exact same thing.....that my pic would end up looking like a failed match. I thought BM Dove Wing (OC-18) would be great, but not sure if that's enough contrast. I really don't want to go any darker though. It seems perfect, but I can't help but be nervous. maybe I will get a few sample pots and test it out before I commit. I had considered all the same color, but think that large area needs broken up just a teeny bit. Did you end up painting your furniture? If so, i'd love to see. When I look at the BM color card that includes White Dove and Dove Wing, those shades look like a "grayish beige" to me. Am I correct in thinking that?
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laurensmom- Go Illini!!! Newyorkone- My paint deck doesn't have Squire Hill Buff (the deck may be old, I borrowed it from our painter). I did find Roasted Sesame Seed. Great color, it reads more orange than the Chestertown Buff. Definitely don't think I could put those colors side by side in adjacent rooms though. think they would compete. I need something lighter for our space, which doesn't get a lot of it's own natural light due to being on the North side of the house. Thanks for your suggestions. Keep em coming please!!?? Jen
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roseabbey, The 'one up' thing doesn't always apply to the way paint works present day -- because paint color strips are not all created equal. Back in the day, there was a lot more consistency and 'one up' kinda sorta could really mean something. Now-a-days if you go one shade lighter, it's a real possibility that it's not the same color that you initially chose. A lighter color, yes, but very characteristically different than the darker color on the strip. Not all paint color strips are the same - these days they're arranged in all sorts of ways. Sometimes, 'one up' is a viable option because the strip really is a progression of color arranged lighter to darker. Oftentimes, that's not the case. The strip is comprised of anywhere from five to seven colors that can be very similar, but are essentially different colors. The way to manage and determine what is too dark, too light or just right is primarily by using LRV. Light Reflectance Value. The number is a consistent piece of data that tells you a lot about how light or how dark a color can look/feel. LRV is especially useful if you have paid attention to it over time and have benchmarks for you, your house that you can refer to when choosing what colors to sample.
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I think your plan to get a sample is good, but if you have a Sherwin Wm.s nearby, you might want to pop for their $5 test quarts instead. They allow you enough paint to pour it into a roller tray and roll a sample on your wall. With yellow, you need to keep in mind that the color will intensify after it's painted on all 4 walls, so you need to go a shade tanner than you might want on the finished product. If you choose something very yellow, your room will be intensely yellow when it's done. I've not seen the BM Straw in person but have read where several have used it and liked it a lot. The Hawthorne I know nothing about. Have you checked the nice thread in the Gallery on yellows and golds? Red
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teacats
16 years ago
Actually the deeper tones will bring a warmth -- and depth to a north-facing room. Of course -- LOTS of lighting options (even a lamp on a counter or a chandelier over a table) can really help too.

Well -- Hard to tell about colors without photos but the gray-green-gold shades MIGHT work well with your flooring and counters. Sometimes these tones will allow those yellow and orange (copper) colors to work. THEN add stronger accents of copper (fabrics? artworks? pots? pans? canisters on the counters?)

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