Thanks for posting the clipping (you can find more information on how I paint cabinets and trim by clicking "My clippings" on the name Igloochic). I have painted....geeze let me count...four kitchens and six bathrooms (cabinets). Each time I've lived in the place and used the cabinets so I know that the paint not only "stuck" but that it wasn't prone to nicks and scratches. Done right...it sticks :) I have used a couple types of paint. The above clipping is describing my current favorite by Sherwin Williams. It's the first pairing (primer and paint) that I've found which totally eliminates sanding (I prep with a quick washing with TSP). Both products are latex, which is so much easier to work with, and both are hard as nails. (I have used this combo in the new place on all woodwork). The above post is for a color that is a very very deep dark chocolate. You could use the same paint in any color. I do suggest tinting the primer. For a high grain wood I like to do two coats of primer and two coats of paint. Be careful not to overload your brush so that you don't end up with drips. Between each coat, be sure to review your previous work for any finish errors (bugs in paint, drips, fingertips etc). Lightly sand those down before adding another coat of paint. I used to use an oil based primer (kilz) and then ralph lauren (in high gloss) for the top coats. That worked well, and always stood the test of time, but I do prefer alatex based paint. I once had the cabinets sprayed by a painter...I was not happy with the finish and wouldn't do it again, but that could just be picky me. I will say that painting cabinets is a lot A LOT of work, but in my opinion, highly worth doing. It will cost you a few hundred bucks for paint and supplies and you need to be patient and detailed, but if you are...and you have good boxes to work with, it's worth the time if you want "new cabinets" (or at least the look) at a fraction (a real small fraction) of the cost of new cabinets. I've never regretted the work at all. To keep yourself sane, try working on one small bank of cabinets at a time. For instance, the island. Unload it as necessary (I normally do not paint the inside of cabinets so I don't always unload everything, but instead tape plastic inside the frame so that I can do the frame, and the inner portion of the door frame without hitting the contents). Get the least tacky blue tape and label each cabinet and corresponding door A, B, C etc (put one piece of tape on the cabinet inside that says "A" and the other that says "A" on the door that came off). Take the hardwar off the doors (hinges etc) and put that inside the cabinet it came off of (tape down if necessary). Don't throw it all in a bucket...it's not always the same and you'll have wonky doors). I don't recommend changing hardware (hinges) but if you're going to change your handles and they don' fit the existing holes, now's the time to putty full and sand down flat. I like to use a hanger and make a hook with it and hang the doors from a rafter in the garage. This way you can paint both sides at once (let each side dry between painting though before doing the other side). DO NOT STACK UP DOORS THAT ARE DRY! Let them cure a week before stacking!!! (I prefer never to stack!). Anyhoo, do the island frame, toe kicks, etc. PRep well with painters tape first and go for it. Then do these doors then put back together before you tackle another portion. It will make life more livable. I like to be kind (no stickers, tacks, slamming etc) for the first 30 days or so after the doors are back on to really let the paint cure, but that's just me. I've not always done this. I do like to replace the little plastic or felt pieces that keep the door from slamming into the cabinet frame so that you don't have paint stuck to paint as it cures. Then move on to the next bank...say the left of the sink on top only...etc. It takes time, but frankly you have a very nice foundation to begin with (lovely kitchen) and if you like the layout...go for the paint job :) Just know it takes time, but it's worth it in the end really.

Hi olga! When I first saw those reaklly glossy ones, they reminded me of 2 things. One, a friend had a hand crafted kitchen table, I believe he made it with his Dad many years ago, that looked like it had sooooo much polyurethane on it it looked like you were looking through a sheet of glass! This I thought was really neat, and actually liked it. Second, I just saw a commercial either on HGTV or DIY I think with Amy Matthews, it wasn't an ad but more a DIY FYI type thing where they took what looked like a tree slab with different grains and heartwood & sapwood colors and made COUNTERS out of them! It may have been a bar. They used some type of thick urethane and showed them spreading it over the slab. Then let it dry. Did anybody see that little infomercial? They also reminded me of those tables or clocks made by cutting 2-3'' thick slabs off tree trunks & polyurethaning them with a really thick coating! One thing I did notice is that some of the edges were really thick and chiseled, or had a chiseled, sculpted look. A house across the street built in probably the 1920's or so has artistic cinder blocks (not flat sided) on each side of the front porch staircase topped off by a similar stone or concrete slab about 3'' thick that has the same chiseled edges look, so the look must be around many, many years. In all the DIY shows I've ever watched or DVD'd (I'm actually watching Kitchen Impossible right now on the DIY Network), I've never seen concrete so glossy! It must be a different process than building melamine boxes on the cabs and pouring concrete--the melamine surface leaves a finish similar to formica (orange peel like) that needs to be buffed to get a glossy smoothness--this must be a different process or topped with a urethane or something making the gloss so deep. I had too many windows/screens (on the computer) open last night and the granicrete.com site started out with a video and I closed the page but will have to check the site again when I get more time.

Hi there! Just checking out this site. I usually post on the garden junk site, but your email really hit home! I know exactly what you mean about feeling so inadequate sometimes. I've had two hand surgeries and have arthritis in both hands, so I can SO relate! Fortunately, my DH is a whiz, so he is able to help me when I get stuck, but you might want to try hitting a small hardware store if there is one in your area. Sometimes the sales guys there are a wealth of knowledge and are also willing to help out with welding, etc. I know that when my husband worked at a hardware store, he was forever bringing home stuff that ladies would bring into the store. He painted, welded, cleaned, and even designed stuff for them. Just a thought. He always loved to help them out--mainly because he knew how much I loved my garden stuff, so he was a sucker for ladies who needed the extra help!

Hey Kompy! Thanks for all that.I was just saying in another thread how the budget\money part of this process really stresses me out and it isn't even my money - I don't know how KD's do it I think it not being your money makes it worse. I got another just postlam quote back yesterday and it was 2-3 hundred higher. This process is really roller coaster last week I was thinking we haven't spent a lot of the contingency maybe we could upgrade the countertop, this week a couple of real estimates come in for other things and we are on the budget precipice. The $850 includes the corner mitre (yes it is by the sink - I know), 3 end caps (both sides of the stove and the cab that is now the angle cab and I have not gone back to discuss the angle cab with them but I am prepared to see the cost jump about $150 because of the required material to get the postlam edge over the door - it is going to involve a lot of waste), No integral splash - hate them. I like this company, HD's in our area have a contract with another company and they are having problems so a few of the Depot's are steering customers to these guys. They only work with postlam - they did a couple of episodes of Design U (do you get that on HGTV in the US?) with this company doing the countertops. A bit more than 15 linear feet but angled cab despite being only 12 inches over the door will probaly require at least an additional 2 feet, so I would say a minimum of 18. Fridge is currently in one corner of the L but is being moved another wall - we may only be able to cover it in postlam but my Mom is excited about the new large expanse of countertop (she will have nearly 80 inches of uninterupted countertop on one side of the L). Sink is a double deckless drop in brushed all over that is $304 regular and $260 at the plumbing supply place. Novanni distributes Elkay in Canada and just below Elkay the have a line called Novanni Elite which this sink is from. It's for higher end builders and manufactured in Canada. If you can't do a drop-in then I say go deckless. This is the Geneva edge I like, way more than you should ever like a postform edge: