Anybody have custom laminate with bevel edge
Comments (13)
mom2sethc
14 years agoHello,
My previous home had beveled edge laminate with a wood trim on the edge and then laminate on the bottem of the edge (if that makes any sense). 11 years later when we moved out of the home, it looked as good as it did when we moved in. My new home also has beveled edge laminate and we have no issues with it either.
Previous Home:
{{!gwi}}
New Home:
Elaine
abbycat9990
14 years agoI have straight edges, not beveled, but I think your concern about ripping the laminate is misplaced. I suppose it could happen, but that would be a rare fabrication problem.
On my straight edges, you can see the white layer but, if all beveled edges look like mom2sethc's, then you're home free.
Try to get a sample of the fabricator's work--especially the beveled edge--and also make sure that your chosen laminate is a constant color with no contrasting layers to peek through.Good luck!
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Comments (35)Just got a new countertop and, carelessly, I kind of thought I was all set to get a straight edge based on my pre-install conversation with the measurer. But sure enough, my contract states 1/2 bullnose. I prefer eased, as one of the previous posters. It's what I had in my previous location. I do have a functional peninsula which has a large overhang and my agent is trying to convince me it's more practical and it turned out this way for the best. And I admit, I can't quite see it being an eased edge, with its arced shape. I also found this article: http://www.kitchenbathdesign.com/879/reasons-to-round-over-your-square-sharp-edges/ which argues 1/2 bullnose or similar is the way to go, from a functional standpoint. There's not post-installation straightening that can be applied? Maybe I'll learn to like it. At least the inside of my sink is an eased edge....See MoreTell me about wood-look floor--bevel vs square edge, plank width etc.
Comments (25)Living with my Karndean Warm Ash 9" planks for 2 months. Its very pretty, love 9" and the color. I was going for exactly whT the OP was goung for and the look is right. But. Has no bevel. Not Into cleaning, the idea of any bevel sounded gross with my not so often cleaning. Wish I had done a micro bevel if it was avail. Didnt even consider and wish I had. Prof install, Karndean is not maybe the best but decent brand......the ends of the planks stick up just a tiny bit. Most noticeable when walking down the hallway as the planks are laid Ling. Really distracting. And of course I can't imagine it not chipping. Really sad, super expensive small new build. Other thoughts, I hate the grain in lvp. although I went with a very minimal grain, again the idea if dirt building up in the grin was gross. But even with minimal grain you notice if you Re sweeping with or against the grain. You have to sweep with the grain. I have soft spots that you can feel give. Drives me nuts. No noise, just give. Btw that and the flex in in the trex I feel like I'm living in a fun house mystery spot. Wish I had gone glue down but assumed it was some cheap way to go. It can be fixed, click cannot. No give....See Morecan quartzite be beveled to a custom thickness?
Comments (15)Thanks for your suggestions. Shelves had to be installed on bare walls due to the nature of the floating shelves, I had to remove the drywall and block between the studs for my cabinetmaker to make the shelves as sturdy as I wanted them to be with our 1/3 design we came up with. Now if I removed the shelves and tiled under them, the shelves would need to be remade as they are perfectly flush w cabinets. It's cheaper for me to get the tiler to work around those rectangles (they do it all the time) than to have my cabinetmaker remake the shelves. Nothing has been ideal with this renovation due to the demand versus supply of contractors around here. My cabinetmaker is a primadonna so it had to be done that way. It's a miracle I got him to build those shelves at all. I went back and forth on doing the tile first and decided that the chances of them breaking tiles was too high so I went this direction. Plus we can't do the tile before the counters and I am waiting waiting waiting for the fabricator.... The tiler should not have problems tiling around the shelves (although it would be more challenging for me) but it would be a bitch to tile around the hood and since the hood is easy to remove and adjust a few cm out we are moving that for him. I interviewed a guy today. As far as the design, it sounds busy but it will all tie together. Here are some examples of different tiles used in backsplashes. My house has a ton of light so the only thing left white will be the floors and the ceiling. The countertop is light gray. Ubiquitous white is just way too wholesome for my house. I will not have contrasting grout lines whatever tile I choose- seeing all those rectangles like in the pics below gives me a headache. But I won't choose the tile yet until I see how the rest is coming together. Most likely it will NOT be a subway tile....See Morejanepa
14 years agofootballmom
14 years agormlanza
14 years agocaryscott
14 years agokompy
14 years agomom2sethc
14 years agocaryscott
14 years agocaryscott
14 years agoKompy, and anybody else who wants to weigh in,
One issue is we are doing the backsplash in a nice 1x1 ceramic mosaic called "Colour Fusion" in Beige (it is sealed and we went for the fancy grout). Because all the cabs in the L are set in we are just doing between the uppers and the countertop all the way across - no sidesplash. Ding, ding, ding I doubt the walls are plumb so I am worried about the sides and what to do to cover the gaps if we need to. I'm not a big fan of square cut laminate for a set on side splash so we were thinking of maybe 2 inch high wood moulding painted the same colour as the walls it would be against. Thoughts? One of the side splash areas is where the mitre will be so I think we will need something. I could introduce a new material but what and I really like the idea of restricting the tile to being between the walls and not being brought around. I was thinking brushed metal maybe - faucet is brushed nickel and hardware is brushed chrome - they look OK together I checked them. Could you do that cheap? Cheap will be key in what we decide to do. I could order extra fillers for cabs - don't judge us -but doors are thermo in a matte Antique White (Shaker not raised panel) so a roll of edgebanding is a standard accessory and then do a set on edge with that. Colour of cabs is definitely in the tile which the sidesplash will butt up agsainst at the back. Walls are a similar rust to the colour in the laminate.
I'd appreciate any thoughts, I am prepping a post with some pics of the elements for the room but it hasn't got done as of yet.
Here is a shot of the where the side of the L meet:
kompy
14 years agokompy
14 years ago
kompy