To the extent of the rangetop, I can help a little. I'm a nerd by trade, so I tell people more than they probably wanted to know. I don't know what's important to you so I just spit it all out. I have a Distinctive 30" range. The Distinctive range top uses the same burners, the Discovery is slightly different. Not a lot of anything for child proofing rangetops. Something like knob covers won't work because of the small hoods around the knobs. A child could turn a knob - it takes no effort at all but the knob must be pushed in before being able to turn when the burner is off. I also would make you aware that there is no bullnose on the Distinctive unit. A bullnose would make it harder for little hands to get to pot handles. As I understand the child safety issue, THAT is by far the more prevalent accident. There is a small bullnose available for the discovery unit but contrast it to the set back of the burners on other makes. Dacor's simmer markings can be misleading. I found that a simmer (bubbles breaking surface every once in a while) was unobtainable on the 15k burners. I could get a nice low boil that would be very even across the bottom of the pan, but not a simmer. The low boil is also useful to me but its not a simmer. On the 10k, sometimes it'll be ok and sometimes not. Small cookware is another boil - larger, heavier cookware produces a simmer. The 18k burners are a little odd in that they will sear (above 8" cookware) and they will simmer using the small center ring. The 18k will do a fine job with a flat bottom wok. Haven't tried a round bottomed one. What the 18ks don't have is "low" where the entire burner turns down. When reducing the heat, the entire outside ring turns down and then the inner ring turns down. If you're looking for "low" or the low boil setting on this burner with the entire pan surface still engaged, it's just not possible. You have to move the pan. I still sometimes use a flat plate that I got free with an induction burner. Just a 3/8" flat lump of metal on a handle. It spreads the heat outward from the small center burner ring and does a great job cooking tortillas. You may find that you want a heat diffuser or a traditional simmer plate. I did not buy the one from dacor, I bought one from Eurostoves and I really like it. It allows simmer at any level from one bubble burst per second up to that place right below boil on the 10k and 15k burners - using any cookware. It's the large one from Ilsa. I have not had the opportunity to try it on the 18k burner yet. The other thing that looks odd, but works is having two 15k burners stacked front to back. If you use a griddle, that's the place to put it. I didn't get Dacor's (it looks lovely but pricey for us). I got the Chef's Design Maxigrill. While it doesn't do high heat cooking, it does do everything breakfast and lunch. We find the burner indicator lights to be useful - sometimes the sun washes out low flames. The grates are great with good tine spacing, heavy but easy to pick up. The SmartFlame blather actually works - your kitchen will be cooler using Dacor's system. The porcelain spill basin under the burners is easy to clean - I use water or a very little diluted pine sol. It's one big piece, so not a lot of edges to capture dirt. Doing diluted pine sol with a miracle cloth produces sparkly clean. The burner caps are porcelained with a pretty good camo-color, you could likely never wash them and no one would know. I've boiled over my share of things and nothing has been stuck on past using a non-scrubby sponge. The burner heads are aluminum - slight bummer there as they can't go into the dishwasher or be scrubbed with a scrubby sponge. Good luck with choosing. This post was edited by bmorepanic on Sun, Mar 2, 14 at 8:29

Take it from me what CR says about Thermador wall ovens is absolutely true. I have purchased two 30" C series Thermador ovens and am getting ready to replace the one that was existing in the home we purchased last year. Loved the way my Thermador's cooked, baked, and broiled but had to have them repaired. It seems there is insufficient insulation between the oven and the electric control panel and when you use the self clean, over time, it causes the control panel to fail. This is a minimum $1,000 repair. I live in Dallas and there is only ONE company in this area that will service Thermador ovens because Thermador service dept is so difficult to deal with. My regular service company which is efficient and costs are fair told me they stopped servicing Thermador ovens for that reason and three others I tried said the same thing. Both my Thermador ovens needed the control panel replaced within three years of purchasing and the one in our new home could not pass inspection and had to be repaired by the seller before we moved in - yep it was the panel and it cost them $1,200. They didn't cook and it was an older oven. The space we have for the wall oven is 27" and after looking and looking and doing research and reading here and other web sites with independent reviews by actual owners we have chosen the Miele Master Chef Classic Series which has the Novatronic controls which everyone seems to love. This choice was made in part because of the rotisserie feature which we do use quite a bit along with other features we liked and which were well reviewed. It was more expensive but we went with a straight Microwave which suites our needs and we chose the Electrolux Ei27MO45TS microwave which meets all our needs and was well reviewed. Went with the Miele warming drawer because of the match and the fact that it was the same price as most other warming drawers we were considering. We stack our ovens in an unusual way which we really like with the actual wall oven first, then the microwave, and then the warming drawer. It is logical to us because the heaviest items come out of the oven and having it at the top means no stooping and it's easier on the back. We usually only use the warming drawer when we entertain and to reheat leftovers which it does so much better than a microwave. Still trying to decide on which Fridge and Freezer columns to choose but that's another forum

fenworth, We've made the TJ cookies tons of times at home using a GE Profile oven (as stated in my original post). We also made them in a Wolf oven at a Wolf center. In both the GE and the Wolf, the cookies come out fairly "normal", even when the dough is completely defrosted (which is not recommended). We did return to Miele, used a different oven in the store, and got the same flatter-than-flat cookies, even with a TJ box that was bought 15 minutes before entering the Miele store. I can't say whether or not the grease filter was installed during cookie baking - as a newbie to the Miele oven, that's not something I would have been aware of (I kind of hope the people working at the Miele center know how to use their own ovens.) Maybe it's this particular Miele store installation, or this particular cookie dough recipe, but there's definitely something different about the way the Miele ovens we've tried bake these cookies.

So you have the Broan 6" MD6T and you have it unfiltered, unconditioned, and ouputting under the fridge for conditioning purposes? So you are relying on the exhaust heat of the fridge to cool the incoming air? How cold did it get this past winter for you? How cold was that make up air? Detectable at all? Here we had -20 real feel in NY with the wind chill at times. It was brutally cold and cold often. I think I might have to put in a heated MUA. So update on Broan. The lady I spoke to today was completely useless. To make a long story short she had absolutely no idea how to use the Make Up Air Specifier on her site. It was quite pathetic and my impressions of Broan's customer service = suck. I spoke to Dean at Electro Industries at length about all the factors I'm thinking about. We went over two options - one using the MA-10 (10kw all in one 10" heater with damper, blower, filter, and current detector to control blower speed) and the less expensive heater unit EM-WX1025R. The broan MD6T comes with a 24volt 20VA transformer so I could then use the one signal to turn on both the Broan damper and the heater unit. Both options unit can accomodate up to 637cfm in a 50 degree temperature rise. It's a 10kW unit though and would require a 50A or 60A two pole (240V) breaker and its own dedicated lines (of course). I can take care of the electrical so no problem there but man I'm guessing my heating bill (which was astronimical last year) will be more than I can tolerate this year. Temperature Rise Needed/CFM EM-WX1025R 10000 Watts 80/395 70/452 60/527 50/632 40/790 30/1054 MA-10 $1917 + freight EM-WX1025R $800 + freight. I think that should be sufficient - it's better to have 50 degree air coming in than 0 degree air. I'm thinking that maybe I can get away with non-heated air if I can get fresh air to come up that old supply register near the range. The opening is closer than the fireplace but it might work if I put a blower in-line as well.