If you want a beautiful professional painted finish, you will need some time and patience. I would use Benjamin Moore Waterborne Satin Impervo, Regal (pearl finish), or Aura (satin finish). Aura has the premium coloring system, but that wouldn't matter if you are using white. You may prefer a higher gloss than the finishes I listed above. I've used the Satin Impervo a lot; it's a standard pro pick for a beautiful finish, but after 6-9 months or so, it's less glossy than "satin" IMO. High-gloss finishes are very unforgiving of flaws; they show every surface flaw under the paint film and every speck of dust on top of it. So I prefer satin or so in most cases. For prep, the goal is to achieve clean, dull, and smooth finish. First step is to clean. For bedroom furniture, this shouldn't be too hard. Wipe down the surfaces with a microfiber cloth dipped in HOT water/Dawn solution, then mostly wrung out. Then rinse by wiping down with HOT water/vinegar solution in a wrung-out microfiber. Pay special attention to greasy surfaces like the headboard. Next, sand for adhesion. The Norton 3X sanding sponges in 120 grit or so are awesome for this. This is not hard. Just quickly go over the surfaces with the sanding sponge. Then vacuum or wipe off the dust with microfiber cloth. Next, brush/roll on the primer. I like shellac (Zinsser's pigmented) because it has awesome adhesion. But the water-based is fine too. You could also get BM's recommended primer. Primers have more resins for adhesion, while paints have resins for beauty, durability, and washability. Use a foam roller for flat areas, and a brush, like a Purdy angled trim brush, for detail areas. Or even a stencil brush if there are carvings and such. Always do deeper, carved, recessed, detail areas first. Be careful on verticals; apply thinly or you'll get sags and runs. After you paint verticals, go back and check for any runs and sags and carefully brush them out before they set that way. If your paint sets up too quickly due to warm weather, you can add a retarder like Floetrol. I always try to apply finishes early in the morning when it's as cool as possible. Apply a coat of your finish paint in the same way. You may want to apply 2 coats, but one coat of good primer and one coat of a good paint like Impervo or Aura may do it. I like to sand out any brush or roller texture with very fine sanding sponges. But it's easy to sand through to the wood finish, so if you don't like that "distressed" look, be super careful on the edges or else stick with the texture. I think a bit of wood finish peeking through, in a lightly aged and distressed finish, is beautiful. Sanding will also leave a more matte finish. For flowers, check out stencils from Royal Design Studio, Jan Dressler, Victoria Larsen. Many people think of crude and ugly stenciling, but there are beautiful multi-overlay stencils now, and techniques that leave a hand-painted result. Check out Melanie Royals for inspiration. If you decide to stencil, get one of her books and/or videos to learn the techniques. You would use acrylic colors and glaze medium to produce beautiful effects. And you'd probably want to protect the decorative painting with a coat of clear waterbased finish.

Charcoal

I would make ONLY the bed white, and use the honey colored wood nightstands and "powder table" as is (btw never heard that term but assume it's like a vanity). IMHO the bed can be different, but every other piece of furniture should be the same. Oh and I would get some of the "wood color" onto the bedding to make it look intentional. Like maybe a pillow with a burlap background but something girly on it. Just example of the kind of things that could marry the white, wood and pink. Just illustrating the colors I might use ... designs depend on interests (and id never use genuine burlap)

Painting furniture is different than painting trim. I suggest chalk paint. I just did a table and it was very simple. No sanding, etc. Just paint and wax. Pictures of the furniture would be helpful