A lot more folks like the look and idea of marble than are comfortable with living with it -- especially since we aren't used to it in kitchens we've grown up with. We just hear it will etch and stain, so folks become afraid of it. Fear creates a need for something to get rid of the fear. A market is born. They require trained applicators and the market is controlled, so it is more expensive and stays more expensive -- and the salesman is just going tot try to figure out what you want so he can sell it to you. If you are saying you are afraid of marble, it is an option he can present to you. And you're right -- if you come back and complain about the marble, they can tell you that you should have used the Dry Treat. I don't know the other sealer mentioned above, but I would suggest that you don't agree to anything without testing it on a sample of your surface. I really don't feel compelled to suggest anything more than a good quality penetrating sealer. My fabricator used StoneTech and it has been great. Never a stain -- with messy teen boys and a house full of ketchup, tomato sauces, chocolate, chili, lemon juice, vinegars, oils, coffee, tea, and wine. In another thread you said you saw how a seriously etched piece of marble was brought back nearly to its original state with some buffing. You are not likely to have anything nearly that bad in your kitchen. If you were okay with that, I'd stick with that. If not, go to something totally different. If I find that treated tile in the garage, I'll let you know -- but they shouldn't sell anything they can't show you a sample of, especially if it changes the surface of your stone (they say it gives an orange peel" texture to the surface).

I generally like a contrast, and I like shiny splashes that light reflects off of, but if using marble, I'd probably stay with the honed for the splash too. The polished will get splattered -- maybe not a lot, but I wouldn't want to see those dull spot against the polished. On the honed, I doubt anything would be enough to bother me, and if it was, I know I could buff it out.

Hi @quiltgirl1 - I know it’s been a while since you posted. I couldn’t message you directly, so I thought I’d post a comment here in the hopes you’ll see it! We are about to make a decision on countertops, and I’m a huge Silestone fan. I had Alpina White (polished) for years, and just installed polished Et Serena in our master bath and powder room. I have been looking at Dekton lately (“Bromo”) thinking that I might try that in the kitchen this time, mainly for the zero-porosity factor (essentially heat-proof, fade-proof, etc.). However, I also love the Charcoal Soapstone (suede) like you have and was wondering if you are still having good luck with it. We installed the Alpina White over 20 years ago, and just demo-ed it a few weeks ago. I was advised by the salesman at the time of install that it was “heat-proof and scratch-proof”...so I have been taking piping hot dishes out of the oven/micro and setting them directly on the counters all these years! I also cut on them frequently. They looked as good when we ripped them out as when they were installed - so I guess I was incredibly lucky (ignorance is bliss)! Anyway, that was the main reason for switching to Dekton - so I could still set hot dishes directly on it without any worries. And it has the added benefit of no possibility of staining...at all. But the suede Charcoal Soapstone is so pretty! Have you had any problems, or are you still in love ;)? It’s mainly the suede finish that worries me. Sorry to everyone that this is so long; but hopefully @quiltgirl1 is still around, or possibly someone else that has helpful info. Thanks so much!

the easiest way for a pro would be to simply re-hone with the final step, however I wouldn't expect someone that leaves sealer to dry on the surface to know how to do that without making a whole other mess There is a product from MB Stone Care called Easy Scrub. This is designed to remove water spots (not etches), film, residue, etc. from a variety of surfaces. This will likely work for you, and at a minimum, is a cheap and safe way to start. You can evaluate from there.