Answering my own question. Ha. Model came out in early 2012. Found out it's the french door sitting at 29 1/2" (plus 1" rear vent or 30 1/2") that are 36" in width, the fridge case or box itself is 35 5/8". Needs 1/2" side panels minimum. Might just work as current fridge side panels are 5/8" on both sides. Electrolux refrigerators have wheels for easier sliding.

As you can see, I've been way behind in my responses! Thanks so much everyone for taking the time to help w/ this matter! My contractor says the Wirsbo (or whatever it's called now - hopefully it's not an old stash - ha) is good and he swears doesn't change the taste of the water. Other friends have said that's what most plumbers use now, yada yada. I haven't used the water out of the fridge yet (taken the time to read the fridge's manual and figure out how to get the water and ice and filter going properly, filling up a few gallons of water to flush it out, etc.) but the moment I catch up, I will. Meanwhile, I'm going to cross my fingers and hope this will be good enough. If it's not, well, I'll deal w/ that at the time. If the water tastes funny I'll give that *some* time but I'm not willing to waste several weeks on funny-tasting water so hopefully all will be well. creek side - thanks for sharing your experience w/ Pex. Does it matter that it's not just the fridge line but also w/ the new sink faucet? Hopefully not. He ran it along the unfinished basement ceiling and then it comes up underneath the sink cabinet where he put a shutoff valve. There's no risk of UV light cause even in the basement - as far as I recall - there are only North windows that are darkened from previous owner's covering them w/ some funky old plastic. If we ever finish the basement I may consider covering up better. Assuming the stuff makes it that long. I agree that he was out of line and that at least my contractor should have asked me whether I had a preference. Oh well - I made my feelings known to my contractor without being unnecessarily confrontational. It's amazing how much you learn your first-time doing remodeling! :-o antss - Thanks for the positive feedback about Pex as well as putting the shutoff under the sink. Well, I wasn't THAT clear w/ my contractor - haha - but I surely let him know how I felt about the plumber not discussing it w/ me which hopefully by default was made clear that my CONTRACTOR should have discussed it w/ me. I sense he won't make that mistake again since he appears pretty intelligent and since something similar has happened w/ the electrician once before! There are lots more little decisions to be made and I've been pretty clear w/ him since the Pex issue that in the future I'd like to know whenever one is about to be made. Re. the electrician, one of them decided where my backsplash outlets would go without discussing w/ me first. The electrician originally put in two sets of outlets on either side of the sink (4 in each) and I had him redo it and put in 2 sets on each side of the sink - one closer to the sink and one toward the end of the counter, w/ 2 + 2 instead of 4. I let my contractor know, then, that I found it odd that the electrician hadn't asked me how I wanted the setup to be. *Hopefully* this won't happen anymore (ugh) and hopefully I won't be charged for his having to undo that work. It makes me feel so petty and controlling to complain, even though I know in the end I have every right. aprince - awww, cute name. ;) Yes, I keep reading that about copper. It seems people are 50/50 on the matter, really. Well, take for instance creek side's comment below yours! davidro1 - thanks for the clarification re. Uponor vs. cheap plastic, as well as the importance of making sure it's very secure at the joint! weedmeister - haha thanks for aiding in my confidence! :) antss - yeah, "all can be fine if used properly and appropriately" makes perfect sense. AS LONG AS the water tastes good! creek side - well hopefully (all I can really do is hope at this point) the stuff hasn't been exposed to the sun or you know...bright lights. Here in the NW I doubt the plumber or anyone would have stored it outside, but who knows. davidro1 - you just reminded me that I meant to check the back of the fridge to see if he gave some extra length back there of the Pex. amcook - I seem to recall he used a T joint but I'd better double-check. I remember it looked pretty substantial. Thanks so much for the detailed suggestions/instructions, and for the picture! davidro1 - I'm 99% sure it's not a saddle valve. I'll go look now! Thank you...

Hello all, My wife and I ordered a Maytag Ice2O FD fridge a month or so ago (for a very good price), but were never really thrilled with how the fridge looked - don't like the appearance of the ice/water dispenser. What we did like was the freezer drawers. We loved that the drawers are not wire baskets, and that they both come out when the freezer is opened. After hearing of many problems with the circuit boards on the Ice2O, we diceided to look into other brands. As our other appliances will be mostly GE, we were looking at some GE FD fridges. The PFSS6PKWSS seemed to be the best of the bunch, including the new models with 2 separate freezer drawers. We noticed that on some of the fridges, the deli drawer smacks right into the french doors if the doors are not completely open (which we will not be able to do due to a wall on one side of the fridge). The PFSS6PKWSS has a deli drawer that opens up with the french doors open 90 degrees, but my wife was upset that the shelves did not pull forward like on the Ice2O. We knew that Samsung makes the PFSS6PKWSS for GE, and found the Samsung RF267AARS at a Best Buy to look at. We verified that the interiors are exactly the same, except for clear plastic bins on the french doors (they are white on the GE). After pretty much deciding to stick with the Ice2O because of the pull-out shelves, we happened to tug on one of the Samsung fridge shelves and voila! It slid forward, a few inches farther than the Ice2O shelves even! I think we have decided to go ahead and cancel our Ice2O order, and go with the Samsung RF267AARS. So, you Samsung owners out there, how have the fridges been working, how quiet are they, and do you had any complaints about them? Thanks for any replies.

Live Wire Oak, this refrigerator is still under warranty and many parts for GE Profile models have a 5 year warranty. I would never have even considered an appliance that didn't have a decent warranty. For a less than one year old refrigerator to have problems is not normal or acceptable. Does anyone really think so? GE's offer of a discount on another model, is not acceptable either. Firstly, there isn't another GE model that I would want. We needed a refrigerator that had lots of space. I took a measuring tape with me to showrooms and measured the shelf space of many different refrigerators. I was surprised that most 24 cu ft models today have even less shelf space than my old 23 year old, 20 cu ft Whirlpool which did not have enough capacity for our needs. (and it was old - but as I stated earlier, never necessitated a service call). And we needed one with the largest refrigerator space - We have a small freezer in the garage. Today's French door and bottom freezers models just don't fill that requirement. We also didn't want an icemaker or water dispenser which take up way too much space and have many problems. This GE Profile model is the only 24 cu ft top freezer on the market. I felt reassured by a ringing endorsement by Consumer Reports at the time we bought it, although I notice that in their most recent ratings, GE refrigerators has lost its high rating status. As for my doing the diagnostics, the GE tech was just here. Wasn't that what he was supposed to do? But as I stated previously, of course we checked the door seals. And, of course I don't know for sure what the problem is, but I realized that once again I can't always depend on those who are supposed to have the skill, knowledge, and experience, to do work the homeowner can't be expected to because the homeowner didn't have years of training and experience. After researching the issue I've read enough to come to believe that the build up of ice in the freezer and water in the refrigerator compartment should not be considered "operating as designed". I wonder if Live Wire Oak understands what is involved in testing and replacing the thermostat. It's just not reasonable to advise that I do this repair myself. I don't have the ability or electrical knowledge. An internet repair clinic advises to"Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this repair". I believe I read that one homeowner who tried this ended up with severe burns. Okay, first step, (according to the instructions on the website), is to locate the defrost thermostat, and in freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit. I'm not sure how I can get under the floor of the unit. Being 5' tall and 96 lbs, I can barely move the beast. And even if I were Wonder Woman, I don't have the equipment to do this repair. For example, in order to test the thermostat, one would need to "set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting". Apparently, the thermostat is wired in series (whatever that means) with the defrost heater. I just wouldn't touch that - even I could get access to it. You might want to check out the post: French Door Refrigerators. mmhmmgood wrote on Sat, Aug 13, 2011, "The only one that might be worth avoiding is GE, consumer reports show a pretty poor brand reliability with GE's fridges. " What I am complaining about is that the service technician was here for 5 minutes and left abruptly, without checking anything other than the evaporator coils. He was not originally scheduled to come to our house that day; we were added at the last minute - the fault of GE service schedulers. He normally starts his calls at 8 but he was forced to start his day earlier because of us and was here at 7:45 and he was quite angry. It was very, very unfortunate for us. And I want to stress that our first refrigerator was replaced because every test the tech did - and he did a number - all done with his laptop connected to a central service location - showed every test as failing. It was under warranty and it was declared "unrepairable". If it's unrepairable, it doesn't make a lot of sense to continually try to repair it. It costs a company money to have to send service people over and over again to try to make repairs (costs in labor and parts) when it knows that the appliance is not repairable.