hi guys - i finished up my kerdi shower about 9 months ago maybe, but left the strip in the middle of the curb untiled since i was debating how to finish it off. it is about a 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch wide space, 42 inches long, between 2x2 white bullnose ceramic tile. i used sanded grout on the bullnose. the tiles i bought are 1x1 glass tiles. they are on a mesh piece with very small grout space between them, which would require *unsanded* grout. i would like to keep them this way since they are dark blue & i'd like to minimize the amount of white grout between the glass tiles. however, since there will be at least 1/8" of space between the glass tiles & the surrounding bullnose, this space would require *sanded* grout. how do i handle this situation? i can take a picture if that would help... thanks, lisa Here is a link that might be useful: my previous postings

Does the "dry and burlap" method *necessarily* demand muriatic acid? And do you actually mean "dry" or just very stiff? Is there anyplace I can read about this in detail? Let me put it this way-- I've never seen a time when burlap and dry grout (and I do mean handfuls of dry powder) DIDN'T require acid cleaning afterward. I read something called a field report from CTEF that talked about using cheese cloth. I didn't understand it, but it makes sense that cheese cloth would remove less grout from the joint than a sponge. It said something about lightly dragging the cheese cloth across the joint. Is this related? No, this isn't related. You can also do a search on johnbridge.com in John's forum on using microfiber cloths in the same manner. It's a new twist on still another old method of grouting, which entailed using a sponge to loosen up the grout on the face of the tile and shape the joints, and then instead of using a sponge for the final cleaning, a well wrung out terrycloth towel would be dragged diagonally across the tile to clean it. Now instead, cheesecloth or microfiber cloths are used. Some are even swearing by these "shamwow" cloths. Short of that, do you think it is an absolutely mad idea to take a little bit of sand paper to knock down the severe edge of the mosaic? It isn't actually sharp, but if that edge is always going to be felt, I'm not sure that my bare feet are enthusiastic about the prospect. (I'm not suggesting anything dire, just hitting the edges a bit. And I have a lot of extra tile to practice on.) Is this insane? I personally think you're talking about alot of work for nothing, but then again, it's not my feet. If you're going to do this, you're going to want to go through several grits of sandpaper on a sanding block, and wedging the corner of the sanding block into the joint to knock down that edge, and then bring the finish back with the finer grits, going from about an 80 grit to about a 600 grit, or even higher. You'll see when you try it out on your sample.

When we mixed the grout (unsanded)for our backsplash, it was very stiff, making it a pain (more work) to press into the 1/16" joints with the float. We really had to work to get it applied. I don't know if it's possible, but maybe they mixed in a little more water to make it easier to apply on the sample boards. When we made our sample boards, we mixed up small amounts of the grout by hand to use, as we were just wanted to check the color. We mixed the grout used on the actual installation with the drill and an attachment for mixing concrete type materials. You might show them the sample boards and ask why it's crumbly.

Some sanded grouts can scratch some glass tile, but some don't. A sample test for a particular application would be better than an absolute "never".