I have a pair of 8300's on pedestals. You can easily remove the pedestal drawer and then it is childÂs play to get to and adjust all the legs and set the locknuts. After getting the level perfect I "fine tuned" it by running a load and adjusting one leg slightly to minimize vibration. The level was still perfect. However, I still notice what I would call excessive vibration. Tonight the wife washed a load of jeans on during the final spin the washer was vibrating 1/2 inch (What I mean is that I could place my hand until it would hit it as it shook and there was about a 1/2 inch of movement) I have to wonder if that is normal or not. My Lowes installers (I would call them delivery boys rather than installers) slid our washer in place, did not level it at all, did not set the lock nuts, nothing, just adjusted one leg until the thing didnÂt tip back and forth, then ran the drain and spin cycle and noted how smooth it was running. Well DUH, with no clothes to throw it off it should be smooth as silk I would hope. It was just easier to wait until they left and do it myself as I will take however long is needed to get it right. I just wish I had a benchmark to know how much is too much vibration.

Hello All, Weeks away from a new space for a Miele 1215 and 1415 stacked. If you are familiar with Miele's brouchure, it will be in a very similar sort of closet arrangement with the barest clearance on the side. The issue here is just how the heck does one hook up the dryer vent when you can't get behind it? The dryer vent will run from the dryer to the floor then through the floor and run along the basement ceiling to an existing vent. It's not a long run, so that's okay. The only way I can picture this working is to use a flexible metal vent from the dryer down to or even through the floor. That will allow me to use smooth metal material in the basement. However, if I use flexible venting behind the dryer, it has to be longer than needed in order to hook it up then slide back the dryer - right? If so, are there risks of it binding? Miele's manual shows a net arrangement with a flexible gasket - you have this set up to the exact location and just slide the dryer back and the vent connects. Sounds great, but with leveling and other things just how do you know the exact height to do all this? Instead of asking so many dumb questions, can anyone with experience help me here please with your techniques? We will be getting everything ready for the delivery and I want to avoid surprises. Thanks in advanced!

We actually went higher than normal/recommended. Ours is 22 3/4" from the top of the grid. It is a bit high for me as I'm only 5"2" but great for hubby who is 6'3" but I only use the micro for reheating coffee, leftovers and heating up a can of green beans - besides I like the way it adds visual interest to the backsplash - well it will when we get one :) One of the reasons we chose to do this was due to the fact we live in the Caribbean where it is always sooooo hot and humid and I didn't want to feel trapped with the heat from the gas cooktop - not sure it makes too much difference (I don't really cook yet anyway) but I still like how it looks :) Here are a few pictures and you can see how low it would have been should I have positioned it in the more "normal" place - level (ish) with the lower cabinet........ Piaa

Are you willing to prune annually to keep plants to the size you choose, either height or width? When you say you want height, are you thinking high enough so that someone can't see over it, or so that the 8 story apartment across the street can't see into the yard? It sounds like the area where the hedge will be is in full sun, not shaded at all. This is an advantage since it means you are more likely to have leaves densely clothing the hedge top to bottom. How is wind exposure? Think about whether you want all of one kind of plant, which looks more formal, but will be a problem if a pest or disease infests your hedge or even if a plant dies, trying to match the older plants; or if you want to have a mixed species hedge, using repetition of groups of plants. It looks less formal, but will be more resilient in the face of problems and may offer more variety in the way of food and habitat for birds. IME if you have a good quality foundation, the roots from a hedge won't be a problem. I am right on the edge of 5a/4b, and IME, if you want bamboo, you will want to be OK with one that might get killed back in particularly harsh winters, like the last one, though mine hasn't died back most years. Mine (one of the hardiest Fargesia, it gets only to about 6' here ) also doesn't do particularly well with staying upright with heavy wet snow, so you may lose some privacy in the winter. Others from farther south or with different varieties may have different experiences, but that is my experience a bit north of Concord, NH. Arborvitae is fine if you don't have deer. Depending on the species and cultivar you choose, they can range from 8' or 10' to 40' and have a color range that includes yellows, greens, and some lightly frosted or variegated. Some types are more likely to grow multiple stems, and those are more likely to split apart in heavy snow or ice, so if that is an issue for your yard, you may want to choose carefully. There are also some narrow hollies and junipers. Skyrocket juniper is a form of J. scopulorum which is from the western US, so is more prone to disease in humid areas. Sky Pencil holly is a form of Ilex crenata and looks a bit like a narrow boxwood - the leaves aren't prickly. There are narrow yews such as Hicks yews, but yews are particularly beloved by deer, so if you have deer, you don't want yews. I don't have any experience with the narrow forms of any of these plants, so perhaps others can add info about how they fare in the landscape. There are also some fastigate small to mid-sized trees such as Japanese and other maples (Acer), Sweet gum (Liquidambar), Hornbeam (Carpinus) as well as a number of fastigate/columnar evergreens such as varieties of pine, fir, and spruce. Many of the evergreens will grow to tree height, though not all. In general these will tend to be more expensive since most require grafting to achieve the narrow form.