Counter in Front of Windows
As a follow up to my garage-to-kitchen reno (http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0716110531942.html?80) I wanted to share some pictures of the countertop in front of windows.
I know this is a problem for lots of folks in old homes, and I was boggled about what to do... Cut a deeper countertop into the empty window wells? Fit some sort of holder/planter into them? Eliminate the cabinets and do open shelves? Our window well is about 6" deep.
At the end of the day, we just ran the counter straight in front of the windows. We finished the back edge of the quartzite, and painted the back of those particular cabinets.
Here's a close-up view from the outside. So far, I've not lost anything off the back of the counter, into the window well. And I think it should be pretty easy to clean the well from the outside.
Since we have a pretty tree in between the windows, I don't think the focus really goes to the windows/counters, and if it does, I think they just look like furniture pushed up against them.
I'd love to see pictures of what other people have done in similar situations � there wasn't a lot out there when I was trying to make decisions. Please share!
Here is a link that might be useful: Garage to Kitchen Reno
Comments (21)
Errant_gw
9 years ago
ReBe231
9 years agoRelated Discussions
counter top material for small counter
Comments (12)Funny that you guys started to discuss this just when I am about to start this same project myself. Here are my findings. First off, if you plan of putting a counter on top of the new 3.8 cu ft FL, good luck, and have your pocket book ready. You see, the deepest "standard" counters are those for kitchens, at 25 1/8". Assuming that one leaves around 5" of clearance behind those newer FL machines for vents, air circulation, heat, etc, then you are looking at about 30"-35" of depth, depending on how flush you want the counter to come to the front of the machine. Having said that, there are 3 prices for laminate counters in the stores (like Home Depot). The counters you see in the store in stock are the cheapest, and will cost around $10 li ft. If you need to pick a finish that matches say the sink counter top in your bathroom where the machines are also located, then that is considered a custom order, even if it is a standard depth. This will easily double the price to $20 li ft. Now if you want to order a non-standard depth so that it goes from the back of the wall to the front of your new FL, then you are looking at $35-$50 li ft, depending on type of finish like rounded vs sqaure front edge, back ledge or no ledge, etc... Keep this in mind when shopping for a counter top. I would like my counter to cover the machines completely, so I might have to bite the bullet and order the more expensive counter top.... Again, I am talking about a laminate counter top, no fancy materials here.... I am from Canada, and here is what the local Home Depot quoted me in Canadian dollars for the 3 options.. 1) In-Store counter (limited finishes) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $68 CAD Custom order counter (you choose the finish) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $132 - $150 CAD 30 Csutom order counter (you choose the finish) 30-35" (non standard depth) X 6 feet = $222 CAD I believe the last option of non-standard depth only allows for a square front edge finish. If you want a rounder edge in front, like that found on your kitchen counter, the price jumps to $500 CAD, since the guy said that they have to charge for a full 4X8 sheet, and then cut the custom size from there, in order to get the rounded front edge... One other option you can do, which my brother did very nicely is lay down 2 sheets of plywood (for extra thickness), and tile the top and sides, looks really nice, but is a lot more work......See MoreMatte White Counter Top
Comments (7)I didn't pay the Menard's design people anything. I suppose you could get your design for free and then just not go back after the cabinets. I did buy my cabinets there. They were More than I planned when I started thinking kitchen but they were Sooooo perfect. ( My original plan was to replace my existing but my carpenter said if I was going to do it I should have it the way I wanted it.) If I wouldn't have started flipping through the door samples I would have gone oak "just like I've always had". I looked there for everything, though. I had a zipper notebook with everything about the kitchen in it. Measurements, inspiration pictures, printed pictures of the exact thing I was looking for, everything. Then while we were discussing the cabinets I had measurements and everything right there with me for the answer. I did buy a lot on eBay and on line but I looked at things in the store. The thing about the Menard's designers was they were familiar with every cabinet size and function of every style. If I wanted 18 inch base they could pull it up on the design software picture we were making and it only took a few seconds. They could turn it, 3-D, top; everything. Quick and painless and I could change my mind 4 times without feeling real guilty. They had some good ideas, too, and I did listen to them. I got a heads up a couple of weeks before they went on sale. I was just waiting for it to be in my time frame. I also got a free sink base and soft close drawers. My cabinets were about 25 feet, top and bottom for under $5,000. The photobucket link will take you to my page. There are three albums there. You probably want "finished kitchen". Here is a link that might be useful: my photobucket albums...See MoreBank of counter top windows at sink - how to handle code electrical?
Comments (12)Most pop up receptacles will not meet code for the required receptacle for several reasons. Most are only listed for temporary use. The only one I have found that is listed for such use is not in production the last I heard. In any case, ANY receptacle device installed IN countertops MUST be "LISTED for the application" That means that an independent government approved testing laboratory has tested the device to ensure certain standards have been met for outlets designed to go IN countertops, and that the installation instructions show the proper requirements for installing it in the countertop to meet the standards. This includes that the device's 'faceplate' seals well enough when closed to keep water out of the junction box, not a characteristic that a "wall" receptacle would normally poses. 210.52(C) (5) Receptacle Outlet Location. Receptacle outlets shall be located ON or ABOVE, but not more than 500 mm (20 in.) above, the countertop. Receptacle outlet assemblies LISTED for the application shall be permitted to be installed IN countertops. Receptacle outlets rendered not readily accessible by appliances fastened in place, appliance garages, sinks, or rangetops as covered in 210.52(C)(1), Exception, or appliances occupying dedicated space shall not be considered as these required outlets. Informational Note: See 406.5(E) for requirements for installation of receptacles in countertops. 406.5 (E) Receptacles in Countertops and Similar Work Surfaces in Dwelling Units. Receptacles shall not be installed in a face-up position in countertops or similar work surfaces....See MoreTrying to pick an ikea counter top and fronts. Anyone with ideas?
Comments (3)I favor the Grimslöv but I have personally really been into the look of cream and white kitchens as of late. These are high-end kitchens but gives you an idea of the color scheme I'm talking about: However, I think they really work since they have that warm honey floor and natural wood accents. Hope this inspires!...See Morepalimpsest
9 years agofatherdowling
9 years ago
cookncarpenter
9 years ago
romy718
9 years agoLauraeds
9 years agonevik1977
9 years agoLauraeds
9 years agonevik1977
9 years agobrightm
9 years agoHere's a couple progress pics of my solution:
They're supposed to finish the bulk of the rest of the cabinet install today. We'll get counters next week.
I was regretting that I went with the KD's cabinet height recommendation for these. I was wishing that I had made them 3" taller, but these could be one of my favorite things in my kitchen. Or maybe better said they're one of the things I thought I'd hate but I surprisingly love. The staggered counter height looks really nice. It makes it just a wee-bit more open because of the lower cabinet.
The cabinets are 21" tall plus toe kick, so a total of 25.5" before counters. I think the lower lip of my window ledge is 30.5" We'll have 2cm granite and 3/4" plywood (not 5/8" because of frameless cabinets...learned that yesterday). So we'll be just over 27". So I could have squeezed that extra 3" in there, but it would have been tight. This way, I'll still see some of the wall between the counter and window sill bottom. I will still be able to get in there and re-paint when necessary. I wouldn't have ever thought of that until I was just painting.
Someone suggested that it's nice, if you're not tall, to have your KA mixer at a lower height to be able to see in. I'm picturing mine in one of the corners of that counter.
nevik1977
9 years agoLauraeds
9 years agopatti0328
9 years agochesters_house_gw
9 years agoI also ran a couple of drawer bases across a window. The room has 5 windows, all two feet from the floor. We considered blocking (from the interior, the exterior window would still be there per the historic district rules) a north facing window. With more cash than we were willing to spend, we might have rerouted the basement stairs, giving us a galley arrangement with a long island in front of the windows.
This was the most cost effective. We added matching trim around the window that was cut off - it was either never there or removed at some point.
kompy
9 years agokompy
9 years ago
hilaryhigh
3 years agoHelen Johnson
9 months agoLeo Blur
6 months ago
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