I run into this issue frequently. It seems that a rash of local builders 15 years ago got really good appliance package deals with drop in ranges. And when they die, folks discover that they are pretty pricy to replace and that there isn't that much choice even for a higher amount of money. It's sometimes complicated by the fact that there are some 27" drop in ranges out there as well, so be sure that you are measuring correctly! What most people end up doing is removing the cabinet piece at the bottom (where the platform is that supports the drop in) and removing the laminate countertop at the rear (along with the attached backsplash) and putting in a free standing range rather than replacing the drop in. It would work to do a slide in that way too, except that the countertop to the rear would probably not need modification. Granite is, of course, harder to deal with and not DIYable for 99% of folks. You do need a 30" "clear span" hole from cabinet to cabinet and from counter to counter (no overhang on the sides) to be able to replace your drop in range with most freestanding and most slide in ranges. That size is fairly standard in the industry. Since you have granite, you need a professional to come out and modify your counter openings to 30" in order to replace your range. It probably won't cost you more than a couple of hundred dollars, which is still cheaper than the cost difference between a drop in and any other type of replacement range. You can probably do the cabinet modifications yourself if you have a few tools and are handy. If not, then it's usually much too small a job for a local cabinet guy, so your best bet is a "handyman" type person who can do decent finish carpentry. Those can be pretty hard to find for small jobs as well, so you might ask around to family and friends for a recommendation.

Thanks for the suggestions all! I've already got a hall closet down the hall that holds just basically my portable ac unit since I haven't room for that elsewhere and don't really need a 'coat closet'. But, thats one thing I had not thought of and will keep it in mind if I don't do anything else with it. I don't know that I necessarily want to keep media there. I am slowly converting to everything being on a media server, including all these cds. Although I haven't played them in years, I can't bring myself to part with them either. Maybe I'm old fashioned, but there is just something about having a physical copy of music. They may end up going in the garage once I get my shelf project completed there. Thats why I'm kind of stuck with what to do with it ...and the closet idea is growing on me.

Is there a standard rule or "formula" for deciding on what size of cab pull or drawer pull to use? Our 4 upper cabs will all be 24 inches wide, 36 inches tall with 4-6 inch crown molding and our drawers plus 2 cabs in the base cabs will also be 24 inches wide (small cottage kit). What do you all recommend? This would be for a white, shaker-style cab and drawer. Would love to see pics if available. Thanks very much!

A 27" sink will undermount into a 27" cabinet. A 33" sink will undermount into a 33" cabinet, etc. I've done this a million times. The sink manufacturers provide junk clips and want to provide access to fat plumber hands. Strap your sink in place, Hercules Universal Sink Harness (Braxton Bragg) or Sink Strap (GranQuartz), no access needed and your sink won't leak. Oh, and drilling into your engineered stone for the clips voids the manufacturer's warranty, so don't have your sink clipped in place by the fabricator before installation please. And he needs room for the clips along the front so you'll get an ugly fat front rail. Skinny rail with straps: 2 1/4" with a 1 3/8" overhang with straps. Purty,