One issue may be door height and prevention of twisting/warping. The shop from which we order our cabinet doors will not do a door over 48" without an extra rail. This obviously wasn't the case for Arlosmom, but it's how the shop we use protects themselves from future complaints about their doors.

I just double checked my paperwork from the cabinet company (Crownpoint did ours and they were absolutely wonderful to work with) and the uppers without the crown moulding are 55". The doors are a hair under 51" tall. I know we paid an upcharge for the extra height. My doors don't have any muntins or rails. I know Crownpoint uses kiln-dried maple, so maybe that's why they don't worry about warping?...I don't really know.

thank you for the responses so far...very good to hear about the extra rail. As I like that look anyway maybe I can calm this guy's fears with the idea.

Also I will ask about the variety of wood. This guy said something about MDF doors yesterday, but my GC saw my face and said, uh, no, she's a wood person. It gives me pause, however. I'm curious to see his numbers, but maybe he is not the cab guy for me. I don't think I have to use him.

Arlosmom, thank you for checking your paperwork. If we were redoing all the cabs there is no doubt in my mind I'd go with Crownpoint--all of the kitchens I love have them, and I have seen them in person at a neighbor's and they are truly wonderful. Definitely for my next kitchen :) I'd use them this time around except I need mostly new doors, full overlay (which I think they don't do), and only a few boxes. If I completely lose faith in this guy I will investigate SCherr's again, or possibly Country Cupboards here in MA, which mnhockeymom highly recommends.

Any other comments about tall uppers? Any support issues, or people who have wanted them and been turned down by cautious cabinetmakers? :)

thanks again!

Our upper cabinet doors are 47.5" high and the boxes are ~51" (I can't tell for sure as the crown moulding covers it up); the doors do NOT have an extra rail. Our (custom) cabinetmaker wasn't at all concerned, saying the only real problem 'round here is how thin and dry our air is (we're at 5,400 feet).

Before we found him (custom cabinetmaker) we were thinking of going with Cuisines Laurier: they would make a door that size but only with the additional rail: I didn't want that (upset the look I was after) and it turned out they would make it without the extra rail, but it would void the warranty.

thanks, rmkitchen. yours is one of my favorites too--ah, these beautiful, calm white spaces--

so I do feel somewhat armed now for Dr. No. If he won't do the tall doors, I at least know it's possible and can find someone else.

I just checked and Scherr's also requires an extra rail above 48''.

I have 48" uppers . The doors are actually salvaged arts and craft windows. My cab guy built the boxes to fit the antique windows. I have had no support issues at all. The cabs are fastened to the studs in the walls....which are the original 1890 studs. I love the look and we have almost 11 foot ceilings in our kitchen.

{{gwi:612474}}

Holly, I'm not an expert, but I've done a lot of carpentry around my house and I work for a cabinetmaker. I can't think of a reason why taller should be a problem. Wood warps across the width, not the length.

I'm also a natural materials fanatic, and have hated the idea of MDF and plywood myself. But there is an MDF product that's called Medex (you can google it), which is made without the formaldehyde glue that ordinary MDF uses. It is a very stable product, won't warp, and won't be toxic. For painted work, cabinetmakers always argue for MDF. I'm not sure what the price difference is, but it gives the cabinetmaker confidence that his work will remain stable and he won't get complaints.

If the cabinet guy is worried about the way you want to do things it's not a bad idea to interview some others. It would be interesting to see what they say, and how their prices compare. Just make sure you're comparing apples to apples.

Good luck. I like the idea of reusing some of your old cabinetry.

Hi,
I would like this statement clarified:
"Wood warps across the width, not the length."

If the individual that made the statement can't explain it, I will be happy to do so for (s)he.

The cabinet company may make a very tall door out of thicker stock. (1" or greater) That's the best way to make them less flimsy when enlarged.
Another way to ensure doors that don't warp is to hand-select the stock (quartersawing is the most stable cut of any given wood species, as the forces that produce warp, etc. are equalized) and/or make them from a species that is proven to be stable (not prone to warp, wind, cup, or cast).
Then, to use material that has been prepared with care at every step, from the sawmill onward through drying, storage, flattening and planing.
When I set out to build a cabinet, the best & straightest stuff is set aside for the doors, the rest goes for shelves, case and moldings.
Casey

bump

thank you for the additional info...trailrunner, i should mention that yours is also one of my favorite kitchens! should have thought of it when i first posted.

egganddart, thank you for mentioning the non-offgassing MDF...i will investigate.

however, if i wanted glass doors, would they use MDF or wood for the frames?

casey, curious what you think of MDF.

holly, thank you. Have you looked into salvage for the glass doors....they are REALLY beautiful, have stood the test of time and are much cheaper than new glass cab doors. Just a thought. c

MDF seems like a make-shift or time saver. As sheet stock it's not better than plywood, but it can more easily take a smoother finish than ply. IOW to get ply as smooth takes more finishing labor, so there's a $ incentive for folks to incorporate it whenever possible. Generic MDF has serious durability issues wherever its edges are exposed. I have grave reservations with MDF as molding. Now, my experience is so limited w/MDF, since it really has no place in my historical restoration work, but I am confident that the possibility exists than new & improved proprietary MDF will address the limitations/disadvantages of the generic product, but perhaps with a price bump. I try never to close the door on a material, most things have their place. Just not MDF moldings, yuk.
Casey