sorry i was typing too fast. I meant to say above that I told the contractor the the phrase "island" in the contract mean both the cabinets and the granite top, and he shouldn't be able to choose a 21" overhang just because he made the mistake of putting the wrong cabinet support in.

I have a 4 ft wide island. We have 24" cabs in the front (aisle side) and 12" deep cabs under the overhang. We then have 15" of granite for the stools to slide under. HTH. Without the 12" cabs or 36" deep cabs, you are going to need some bulky support for the overhang or its going to crack (i am no expert, but this is what I was told)

I don't think I've seen corbels long enough to support a 22" overhang. I think that might take legs and a frame. In any case, it also isn't what you wanted. Our 4' by 8' island is constructed with 24" base cabinets on the kitchen side of the island and then 12" more of cabinets before the overhang starts. That makes the base 3' by 8'. The granite is slightly larger than 4' by 8' since there is a 1.5" overhang on the front and sides and a 15" overhang for seating.

If your island was made similarly, the contractor could still use the cabinets he already has and add 12" of cabinets behind them.

Here is a picture of the cabinets during installation without the granite installed to illustrate how the island is structured:

As you can see, two of the cabinets forming the back of the island are 12" wide cabinets that face the sides of the island. That makes them easier to access as one doesn't have to duck down under the bar. On the prep sink side, they have pull out shelves holding cutting boards, food processor accessories and such. On the other side, we have baking sheets, wire racks and such in the bottom and a pull out shelf with some other baking pans. Then we have 2 2' wide 12" deep cabinets facing the back between them. You could have just one cabinet facing the back.

Here is the island ready for the granite install with steel bars inset into the plywood subtop to support the 15" overhang.

And here is the finished island:

Thanks for the pics. We would love to do 12" cabinets (that was our original intention). However, the contractor was unwilling to put those in stating that he only had to meet the 4X6 with the top. I'm still holding out for more cabinets and plan on not closing until he puts some 12" ones in. I'm also looking at legs, I don't buy the corbel holding up 22 inches, especially with only 3 placements. I would consider legs, but my wife has rarely seen legs used and fears they may look a bit odd. but we'll see where we get to next week. Thanks again for the help

See the thread linked below for some examples of overhangs with legs. Those are often done with more ornate cabinet styles. I haven't priced them out, I suspect that it is possible that some simple 12" deep cabinets might be cheaper than fancy legs and the apron between them.

One possible upside of a 24" overhang with legs is that the side of the overhang can be used for a seat instead of having people sit in a line along the counter - not a major consideration for us as usually on one or two people at a time use the counter.

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread showing some overhangs with legs

Buildinghunt -

Your situation is pretty unique IMHO - because your contractor is CLEARLY in the WRONG!!!! What state do you live in?

The reason I am asking, is that some states (Arizona, where I am is one state that will come down on your side of the case) will MAKE your contractor do the assembly THE RIGHT WAY after this goes to the Registrar's Hearing and you will win....

Here's what I am meaning in all of this:

1. Depending on the thickness of the granite you will use, there is only ONE RECOGNIZED AUTHORITY in the US that addresses overhang dimensions - and it is the Marble Institute of America's "Design Manual".

2. IF your stone is 2CM thick with a 5/8" thick plywood subtop, the total allowable UNSUPPORTED span for any overhang is ONLY 6 inches - anything MORE THAN 6" -
R E Q U I R E S corbels or other SUPPORT of the assembly - PLWOOD ALONE IS NOT ENOUGH

3. IF your stone is 3CM thick, you will not be required to use a plywood subtop = the stone can be installed directly on the cabinets, and your maximum allowable UNSUPPORTED span is 10 inches.

4. this 21" deep overhang stuff - with no support is NOT going to work, and it WILL FAIL (ie; crack, break, snap... etc)

I would almost be tempted to let your contractor install as proposed, then use the countertops in a routine fashion (not abusing the tops like dancing on them or walking around on them) and WHEN THEY BREAK - have him replace them correctly. Here in Arizona, all you'd have to do is wait till they fail, then contact the registrar, have somebody like me come out and do an inspection, write a report stating HOW THEY SHOULD HAVE BEEN DONE CORRECTLY IN THE FIRST PLACE, then let your contractor DO IT OVER -on the second time - THE RIGHT WAY, and then enjoy your countertops.

This can all be avoided - IF - your "contractor" would just "man-up" and do the work THE RIGHT WAY - THE FIRST TIME - kinda like "One Shot = One Kill" concept......

Bottom line - IMHO - you need more support - ie - more cabinetry to reduce the amount of unsupported span of countertops....

HTH

kevin

Here is a link that might be useful: AZ School of Rock - Proper Overhang Support Video

Kevin, the original poster didn't say that the contractor's suggestion was suggesting a 21" overhang with no support - buildinghunt said that he contractor wanted to use corbels to support the overhang.

If the builder wasn't going to do that, it wouldn't be a good idea to let him do a poorly supported top and wait until it cracks because if it lets go totally and part smashes to the floor, someone could get hurt.