I'm happy to hear your progress. Maybe we'll be done at the same time?

I've only got a few small thoughts for you to take or leave.

(1) Put an upper over half of the bakers table to store some, maybe most, of the baking gear. Remember an over the ref cabinet can store trays, cooling racks, baking pans, etc. Open shelves or pegboard or wire grid wall are other options for that bit of unused wall area.

(2) Consider making the entire window wall out of their 13" deep cabinets - to get a 21-24" drawer unit beside the cooktop and then a heck of a lotta shelves with a wider landing space under the window.

The only thing I'd reconsider is the 12" drawer stacks. The interior drawers are nowhere near as wide as the exterior drawer-front dimensions. We have an IKEA kitchen also, with some 15" stacks. The flat piece on the bottom of the drawer (before the metal curved part) is only 10" wide.

So maybe consider making the wraps/foils and the potholds 15 and 15 rather than 18 and 12. And on the sink run, if you don't need a 36" sink base, consider robbing 6" from that and putting an 18" rawer stack there.

Also, for the blind corner . . . is that up against a wall on the sink side or is it a bar looking into another room? If into another room, consider putting a 24" wide cabinet of some kind facing that room, and then a 24" facing into the kitchen -- both in the space the 48" blind would have taken.

I like the solution by the back door. I'm confused about the fridge though, because it doesn't seem like a regular fridge shape. Is it a counter depth? So the door/doors open toward the DW?

I would want to make sure that a spot for drinking glasses was near the fridge without being in the prep zone. You probably have that but haven't labelled it.

Will you have a microwave? Where?

About the uppers -- I'm not clear on why you'd make the right-hand upper narrower than the left. If it's running right into a corner, then all you need is enough space for trim around the window.

It looks like you are very, very close to pulling the trigger -- good luck!

Hi bmore! DH says we''ll be done by the end of August. I bet him $10 it'll be later. I thought about uppers above the bakers table but I'm kinda in love with the idea of SS shelving. The table itself has those two large possum belly drawers and some regular drawers. I have no clue what I'd store in the rounded drawers though. I was thinking that maybe I'd put a false flat bottom in them so I could the space more effectively? I dunno... I'm going to run out of money with this so I'm betting you'll be done before me! OH.. I forgot about an upper above the frig. That thing is tall I'll never reach what's up there!

jakabody... are you saying that I should make the 36" by the window a 30" and then make the 12" standard depth cabinet an 18"? I wish IKEA had 15" depth drawer stacks but they don't so I'm stuck on the end cab if I want drawers. I'm also stuck with the 12" drawer next to the induction, nothing else will fit. I changed from a corner unit to blind corner so I could fit something, Plus, I decided that I prefer the blind to the corner susan unit. The entire west wall is exterior.

eastbay...the frig is a freestanding Liebherr french door so it's only 24" deep. I did forget to label glasses... they'd go in the uppers on some side of the window. The MW is the smaller speed oven that'll be in the stack. I'm hoping it won't be too complicated for DH to use to reheat his coffee! I don't know why I have a 36" upper on one side and a 39" on the other except that's what I thought the IKEA sizes were that fit. I'll have to recheck that as it may have been the horizontal ones I orginally thought I'd get. I have 39" to the wall on the right and obviously longer on the left. None of the windows in this house have trim. The sunroom has 3 9' windows all trimless and naked... guess I'll just leave it that way since it doesn't look unfinished to me. I definitely need help to rethink my uppers.

The thing about an over the ref cabinet is that you only have to reach a corner of a cookie sheet in order to get it. But them Liebherr's are pretty tall - hmmm.

We're in a race to run outta money too! I don't know how yours is going, but we thought we were close except for wall do-dads and hardware. All along we were trying to decide what to do about the adjoining bath because the former kitchen floating floor extended into there and needed to come out. We asked to plumber to lift the toilet and sink so we could remove the floating floor. Dude opened up the vanity and discovered newly cracked drain and then the vanity fell apart on removal.

Sigh! Thank goodness dh doesn't bet. I woulda lost a ton!

What would you think of one of this for above the frig? It's 15" high and will just fit. We could use some thin trim to finish it off at the top.

All my tile killed my budget. The flooring for the entire house, the bath tile (guest bath), and labor for installation ran about 3K more then I expected but it's what we want and this, as far as we can plan, is it for us. Like I've said before... for my next move they'll be rolling me out to an assisted living facility. Or I'll take my oldest son's generous offer and live in his basement. (OK.. the kid currently has a 1 bedroom apartment but I guess he has big plans for the future) Teaching is great... but not getting paid over the summer sucks. Also, holding down 2 mortgages is killing us. Once we get done and can move AND rent out my house... I'll be more then flush. I let DH know that we may have to live with plywood tops for awhile cause I'm not going to compromise on the stone/granite/marble. It's the part of this entire process that I've been dreaming of. I'm a firm believer that in the end... it'll all work out. I've had so much difficult "life stuff" happen in past year or two that it just puts it all in perspective. My vision of being 100% before we move in is simply not going to happen. The glorious outdoor furniture i want, the master bath, and the new furniture for the sunroom may have to wait till I'm back at work and my house is rented.

Thank goodness for all my craigslist finds and DH's talent. He may have taken a lllooooonnnngggg time to really get going but he's done a stellar job and saved us untold thousands. I'm really proud of him.

Remodelfla  we put one of those cabinets above our fridge  Is it full depth? Ours was. We used the IKEA drawer boxes and turned the 2 doors into 2 pullouts. This really makes for very easy access to what ever you decide to keep inside. You can still place your door knobs like you would regular doors.

We were doing the 2 mortgage thing too. We had to work on the new "fixer" just to make it livable. Then move. Then DH had to finish all the projects at the other house. Then rent! Fortunately, we were able to find a renter quickly once we were ready and can breathe a little easier now. We too lived with plywood counters for a while and I would do that again while waiting for the counter I really wanted.

Sounds like you are on the home stretch! Have fun!

Jeri

I'm not crazy about the plan by the door...I'm afraid it will look like a 'homemade solution.' I would get rid of the small cabinet and make the drawer cab bigger...Just not so big that you feel tight coming in the door...Maybe 24"?

What did you think about Bmore's idea for the window wall? That could work if you don't need that counterspace.

Uppers: Important to have them equal distant from the window on each side. Is the one on the right going to run over to the wall? It should. Then choose one for the left side that gives you the same space around the window and runs to the end of your base run...Or you could get away with it running approx 12" short of the end of the run, so the counter seems to (comparatively) wrap around there.

I need the storage space on the window run so I can't go narrow depth for the entire thing. Hmmmm... I think I'll have to make a cardboard setup to see how it'll feel...

I actually have about 4" from the side of the frig and the end of the wall. That means (I think) I'd like to end the window run before that wall so it doesn't feel/look cramped. That would mean that I would have 16"-17" of empty wall space before the door on the window run. So with 116 1/2" what if I did the blind, a 36" drawer and IKEA has a 21" door unit with shelves and a drawer... all standard depth.

They don't offer a 21" drawer bank? And what does that do for you in regard to your uppers and what's available? I'd kind of juggle the composition of base and uppers until something works right.

How many inches is there between wall and window (including any trim), then how many inches is the window, and finally, how many inches to the doorway?

An elementary, but important question about the stove run: Are you planning some sort of filler in the corner to the left of the 12" drawers so you can open the drawers past the blind corner cabinet's door and knob/pull? If that's already been asked and answered, forgive me. Sometimes I read through too quickly!

I have to remeasure regarding the uppers and lowers thing. This is what happens when I'm trying to assemble two cakes for two different parties today that I baked at my house and brought all the components here. I have no table, no utensils, one cake is falling apart, and my pastry cream didnt' set right. I squooshed everything together and slathered it with whipped cream... all while watching my grandson. I took a large sample tile, set it on top of a trash can and voila... prep space.

When I suggested a 15" drawer base, I meant width rather than depth. My concern was that you're going to have so little space inside those 12"-wide drawers. We have an IKEA kitchen and have five 15" bases.

And IKEA doesn't have a 21" base. Just 12", 15", 18" then 24", 30", 36".

For over the fridge, I would definitely go with the 24" deep fridge cabinet. You can fit a ton of stuff up there. Some folks use it for cookie sheets and cutting boards. I use it for small appliances and big mixing bowls. But I'm not sure how it would look hanging in the middle of the room since the only other thing on that wall is the antique baker's table. It could work if you use panels to box the fridge in. Or in our case, we built (well, DH built) a wall to separate the fridge from the rest of the range wall. It allowed a nice neat column of fridge and cabinet, and it didn't look odd with no uppers on the remainder of the wall. The wall is the width of a 2 x 4 (3-1/2") plus the drywall and corner bead, so just over 4-1/2" wide. It was worth it to us to give up a tiny bit of cabinet space to get that separation. That would work for you in separating your fridge from the baking area.

The photos below are of the 36" wide x 24" tall over-fridge cabinet above our standard fridge (70" high) and the wall separating the fridge and range areas.

FYI - the bases you see there on either side of the stove are 30" bases. If you use a 30" you can swap out the two top 15" drawers for one 30" drawer and it gets you a lot of space back. You can't do that on the 36" drawer bases, because there is no 36" shallow drawer -- you;re stuck with the two 18" top shallow drawers.

FWIW, I have the Leibherr 30" freestanding model, and I didn't have enough space above for Ikea's over-fridge cabinets, but wanted full-depth, so I used a standard 12" base unit, turned on its side - the GC had built plywood side panels for the fridge, so we mounted the cabinet from the side panels. Added lift-up hinges from somewhere else so that the door will open upwards and stay open. Now I have full-depth, but only 12" high.

I realise this may not work with a 24" fridge, but it might be worth thinking about all the various cabinet dimensions to see how you might turn/tumble one to fit.

Good luck - I know you've waited a long time for this.

jakabody... your kitchen is so wonderful. I didn't realize how much I like the Nexus yellow-brown. (I'm assuming that's what it is). It's been a looonnnggg day so tomorrow or the next I'll revisit the base cabs along that wall. I did find a 21" doot base in IKEA. It had a single door with shelves and a drawer. I was surprized because I didn't think they had any size like that.

I don't want to box in the frig. I specifically choose the went for the frig we're getting because it's all stainless and I love the idea of how it would look freestanding next to the bakers table with those drawers. Kinda a vintage/industrial thing I guess.

I'm always amazed at how creative IKEA kitchens are. I know IKEAfans will also be a great resource.

And thanks sara... I have been waiting a long time for this. Surprisingly I'm now more nervous then excited.

I was sent a note that IKEA does have 21" base cabinets and I had said they do not. That's correct. There are 21" base cabinets, but not 21" base drawer cabinets. I thought from your layout your bases were to be mostly drawers (save for the blind corner) so that's why I said no 21" base.

And I think the freestanding Liebherr will look nice on the baker's wall with the stainless shelves.

They do have the drawers for them too. You have to order it at the store or by talking to someone. I don't know why their catalog doesn't list it.

You might just go ahead and do ikea laminate tops temporarily - they are cheaper than plywood.

And I will say from the experience of having thought and done that exact thing in a previous kitchen - either omit the wall cabinet in the corner completely or run it into the wall. The problem with running it into the corner is you won't be able to reach the last foot of the interior without a step stool, but the problem with leaving a gap is you won't be able to clean it at all without climbing onto the cabinets. It will get dusty and buggy.

A skip of a few inches in a corner doesn't look open - it just looks forgotten or like the cabinet was ordered wrong.

Another corner thought, could you put up a wide filler on the end and do a small pot rack on the cooktop wall? High enough not to bother you, but easy to get pots off.

It could also be a place to substitute stainless shelving.

WOw bmore... really? They have drawers! I don't understand why they wouldn't list them either. I told you I was upper cabinet illiterate. I couldn't figure if you were suppose to run it into the wall or not if there wasn't a corner wall cab. At barely 5' and shrinking I can't reach much of anything anyway so it's nothing new for me. I've always been a counter hopper but I guess it's time I grew up and used a step stool. DH got me one but I still never use it. What if I had DH build an angled base or angled shelving and just ran it into the corner? Would it be a "stuff" catcher? or have some use. Perhaps a place to charge the cell phones, a key tray, I dunno.. stuff. I'm not much of pot rack girl. I prefer lack of clutter or things out. I don't want something just for the sake of having something but I don't want it to look unfinished either.

I think this is a job for cardboard! It depends on what it feels like to you.

A charger station is an interesting idea, but I'm not sure how that would work out height-wise back in the corner. Maybe put an outlet behind the 12" pullout and use one of its drawers?

You can reduce the depth of IKEA cabinets from 24 to 21" and the drawers will still work. There is 3" dead space between the drawers and back of cabinet. Are you putting the magic corner in that 49" cabinet? If you are going to make the window wall 12" wide I wouldn't use the drawer cabs. I heard that they have a lot of wasted space. It would be better to stack the wall cabs i.e 4 + 30 + 30 + 30= 94". If you want more of a country look you could do something like these open shelves above either the 21" or 12" base cabs.

What if I were to get a kitchen cart... something like this one that is 20" deep and 30"W? I'd place it after the 36"
{{!gwi}}

I wouldn't angle the shelves and I agree with Bmore that it'd be an odd and hard to reach charging area. Also agree that shelves could look good...Cookbooks? Less often used serving or mixing bowls?

The cart could work if it'll serve you as well as a 21" or 24" cabinet of drawers.

rhome... From what point are you and bmore seeing the shelves working? Where would you start them? Is this in lieu of the base cabs?

I shouldn't even be voicing my opinion since I can't even develop a plan for myself but .... I have no idea what your baking table is like. Does it have to go along that wall? I was wondering if it would look better on the window wall than asymetrical cabinets. Since 12" wide drawer cabs would be useless anyway take them out. Now you have about 36" between the induction cook top and window wall. Either put in the corner cab (37 x 37") instead of the blind corner (48" x 24") or reduce one of the 36" to a 24" and put the blind corner cab along that wall. Put the baking table and your shelves on the window wall. You may even have room to use drawer cabs instead of the blind corner if you can leave enough room between the baking table and that cabinet run. That would probably be a lot cheaper. Your fridge and ovens could form a completely tall wall with solid pantry or base/wall cabs if you prefer where you have your baking table now. If you wanted you could leave where the ovens are blank, stack 3 wall cabs or cut the depth of the base cabs down from 24 to 21". Depending on your style you could even stack 2 of the glass wall cabs on the 21" deep base cabs and make that wall where you had your ovens look like a hutch

Bet yer askin' - Why Orange? Dunno. Shows assorted forms of ideas above.
{{!gwi}}

OH "carp".... I'm so confused.
sandca... the bakers table is an oldie that I refinished... rather unique. It's 70"L x30"W... won't fit under the window if I leave enough space to the right so I can access/stand and set to all of the sink run and open drawers that would go to the corner. When I was trying layouts everyone here worked with me and we decided it was most effective on the botom wall. Then I choose the frig based on how I thought it would look next to table freestanding. I have to digest the rest of what your suggesting. You mean get rid of the blind and 12" next to the cooktop and use the corner susan but I'm not clear on how that changes the window wall issues of depth by the wall where the frig will be. Ovens cannot be changed. If interested you can do a search and look at old posts... I don't want to bore people with pics of that table again!

bmore... I'm really lame cause I'm not sure what you mean by open corner on the bottom. Open as in nothing? Just a couple of feet of floor space? Open as in false front/filler/dead space? I'm sorry I'm not fully getting it.
I don't want to go narrow depth on the sink run cause I need the storage. I like the idea of some open shelves but don't know if I want to go all open since that was going to be my coffee center with hubby's coffee stuff. I don't want a lot of stuff just hanging out. Too dusty and crammed looking for me.

I soooo appreciate you guys.

"Open" being not filled with cabinets.

Not narrow depth on the sink run - all 3 of those elevations are the corner perpendicular to the sink run leading to the ?garage door.

The first one is looking at the wall almost as you drew it. Just taking the two small base cabinets(12" drawers and 18" narrow depth and consolidating together as one narrow depth, all door cabinet. And replacing the cabinet from the window to the corner with open shelves.

The second replaces the top cabinet between the window and the door and the narrow depth base with a 24-30" wide, tall narrow depth cabinet or even the 15" deep pax wardrobe with shelves. Still shows open shelves between the window and the sink run wall.

The third kills everything. It's optimized for gear storage and not so much for counter area = you've kinda got a lot on the baker's table? Everything between the door and the corner is narrow depth.

So, from the top down, those are two matching 39" tall by 36" wall cabinets down at counter height, depending on your ceiling height, you might be able stack more on top. You can have doors or not as you wish.

The bottom is an array of narrow depth door cabinets, again with or without doors as you wish. The other thing I thought about was their wide sliding door units. Storage is directly provided by shelves and "drawers" by baskets or bins or the narrow depth drawers. There is an opportunity to make a counter bow out below the window for a "parking area" or perhaps your spouse could be cleaver with a wide
pull-out counter.

The exchange for the loss of the 12" drawers and the narrow depths is that the cabinet beside the cooktop - currently 12" drawers - could become 24" wide full depth drawers.

Sorry. I searched your name but earlier posts on layout didn't come up. You should check on IKEAFANS to see if they have any ideas. There may be a narrower product (wider than 12" but not as deep as 24") such as the MALM dresser, LIATORP or one of the entertainment or bathroom units that could be adapted to be the first cabinet next to the door. The kitchen doors might still be able to fit that unit. Bmorepanic has drawn 3 very nice looking elevations. The counter will unify the appearance as well. Would you prefer to have it start at the narrow depth units at the door end and increase gradually to the wider depth units or would you prefer it to be more like a bump-out at the transition point? Remember you can modify the depth of the drawer cabs to 21". Three inches can make a big difference. Shelf cabinets could be modified to any depth you wanted. I know, it is very difficult trying to work out a good design without a kitchen designer. I'm having my own problems trying to decide what would be best. Kitchens are going to be on sale here in a couple of weeks. Good luck.

Posted on my new thread a pic of the clearance issue. At standard depth I have close to 35" by the frig. I can live with that. If I push the end cab in to 21" and can still use the drawers... that may be my best option. I'll just angle a small filler piece to gel the transition in depth. It's a small house, we had to make some concessions; this may not be perfect... but I think it'll be a close enough solution. Take a look a the new thread if you want to see clearance space. And Oh... sorry to others who have seen it dozens of times; but here's my table sans marble top and hardware. It was a total mess when I bought it.

It looks lovely and yes I think you do have room particularly if you reduce the first cabinet to a 21" depth.

It makes me so happy to see that beautiful bakers table... Hey I'm an expert at Ikea cabinet construction now... want some help?

YESSSSSSSS Prill... I'm starting a new thread with the tweaked layout and showing both clearances. Crazy how 3" can make a difference...