I figured it out when I examined the sink when it was delivered and realized that it wasn't overly thick at the flange hole; it looked like the standard mount would work, and by golly, it did. But I had already obtained the pair of deep flanges, and they're still in the basement. Casey

Do you have a Shaws Fireclay Sink with an Extended Flange with a garbage disposal? Does yours look thin? Does food lodge around its edge and the Shaws sink flange cut-out?

I also have been wondering about the extended flange. I am glad you listed a model number. I know the specifications tell you that you need the extended flange, but I was trying to find something cheaper than the $100 listed. I remember reading a previous post that a GWer bought one at HD or Lowes but was not sure which one they bought. When I asked at Lowes, the man in the plumbing department did not know what I was talking about. He said they were all about the same.

Dang Nabit!!! The P-trap is easy. Just tighten a bit more. Not too much if plastic, you can strip it. The DW is going to be either the fill or the drain. The fill should have a cutoff under the sink: turn off the water. This again may be a connection that needs to be tightened down a little more. The drain on the KA is just a hose, but it has a clamp on the pump/motor end and another at the airgap (do you have one of these?) or the GD end. (I assume the first time it drained you heard/saw the water going through the GD?) In terms of 'high loop' (and no airgap) the hose needs to be mounted so that there is a high point in the line somewhere. It connects to a short section of hose at the bottom of the washer with a provided clamp. Maybe the clamp is missing or is in the wrong place. Anyway, this isn't rocket science and you need perhaps someone else to look at it. A plumber is not necessary, perhaps just a handyman. Or someone else who knows which end of a screwdriver and pliers are to be used in this instance.