Hmm... why not just leave it the same height? I have a peninsula, and it is all the same height as the rest of the counters. The cabinet in the corner is reversed so the doors face towards the stools. It's really convenient for dog food, treats, etc.

Whatever you end up doing, you'll want to extend the counter top beyond the base cabinets so the stools (and people's legs) can slide underneath. Lowering might make a nice work surface (like you said), but then I'd forgo the sink.

I could leave it the same height. but, I really want to use two different countertop materials - and having it at a different height would give me a good place for that second material. I will give it some overhang - 12-18 inches depending on how high I end up making the cabinets. I'll have that corner cabinet face the stools - but will probably keep the other one facing the kitchen - I really need the storage there since I wont have many uppers. I am actually considering a couple of shelves instead of uppers.

I have small kids and I sew,scrapbook and bake a lot so I guess having it lower seems more pratical BUT I just wonder if there are other reasons I should consider before deciding for sure on it.

thanks!

With the small amount of counter space to the right side (when facing) of the cooktop, I would not want varying heights. I can just see stuff tipping over. Now if you scoot your cooktop over closer to the window... then maybe.

We're in the process of finishing our house and will be using two materials on our countertop/breakfast bar. We thought about going a bit higher on the bar but eventually decided to leave them at the same height. Countertops will be ceramic tile and bar is granite. We wanted the granite to have a spot to roll out dough and other tasks not suited for the tile. Long way of saying I think the peninsula should be at the same height even if you use different materials.

ThereÂs proÂs and cons to each, I have the two level now (or whatÂs left of it) with the higher counter at seating area and a step down to regular counter. The good part about that is unless someone is sitting there it hides some of the kitchen mess before during and after meals and prep. However, good or bad, guests LOVE this area a little too much because they feel like they are sitting at a bar and itÂs hard to get people to spread out during a party, they overflow and get into my little kitchen bubble. One of the inconveniences of the two levels is that it prevents you from adding chafing dishes when you use it as a buffet because the over all height makes it impossible for height challenged people to access the food inside the dish or crockpot. On the flip side the higher level makes a good buffet for finger food. So, I like it fine & dandy except when I am entertaining. I have decided to make mine all one level for remodel as I will enjoy the extra usable counter space all on one level. I do not know if that will make a difference on over congregations at the "bar".

same height.

In our former house's kitchen remodel, we had a penninsula that had a standard table height seating area so that chairs from the dining table could be used at the bar as well. On the higher/cabinet side of the penn. was the sink and dishwasher, etc. It worked pretty well there -- the dining room was small, so when we did have a full table, the bar area provided a nice buffet space.

In our present house, the penn. is all the same height -- standard cabinet height. There is seating for four or five there around one side and on the end. We've found that space so useful for everything from food service to wrapping packages to cutting out fabrics.

I think the placement of your cooktop so close to that area would determine what you should do there. Lower, higher or all one level -- they all have benefits. But I think I'd probably want it at counter height. Maybe you can pretend to be fixing a meal there and have people seated on the other side and see what feels the most right to you.

I agree with remodelfla. There isn't enough space to the right of the cooktop. I chose to put my cooktop in my island and also decided to continue the same height throughout the seating area. This site and the NKBA site were really helpful to me when planning to make sure I was doing everything by 'code'. Wow, I just checked the link below and now you have to be a member to gain access to all the great guidelines! That stinks! Well, anyways I think we needed at least 15 inches of landing/splashing space all the way around the cooktop area.

Here is a link that might be useful: National Kitchen and Bath Association guidelines

I found a way you can order the guideline booklet for $12. It had so much great info I would recommend it if you're planning a remodel. Man, nothing is ever free is it!

Here is a link that might be useful: NKBA Kitchen & Bathroom Planning Guidelines with Access Standards

Recommended:
Kitchen seating areas should incorporate at least the following clearances:

1. 30" high tables/counters: Allow a 24" wide x 18" deep knee space for each seated diner and at least 18" of clear knee space
2. 36" high counters: Allow a 24" wide x 15" deep knee space for each seated diner and at least 15" of clear knee space.
3. 42" high counters: Allow a 24" wide x 12" deep knee space for each seated diner and 12" of clear knee space.

Code Requirement:
State or local codes may apply.

Recommended:
In a seating area where no traffic passes behind a seated diner, allow 32" of clearance from the counter/table edge to any wall or other obstruction behind the seating area.
a. If traffic passes behind the seated diner, allow at least 36" to edge past.
b. If traffic passes behind the seated diner, allow at least 44" to walk past.

Recommended:
Include at least two waste receptacles. Locate one near each of the cleanup/prep sink(s) and a second for recycling either in the kitchen or nearby.

For safety reasons, in an island or peninsula situation, the countertop should also extend a minimum of 9" behind the cooking surface if the counter height is the same as the surface-cooking appliance.

Recommended:
A total of 158" of countertop frontage, 24" deep, with at least 15" of clearance above, is needed to accommodate all uses, including landing area, preparation/work area, and storage.

Built-in appliance garages extending to the countertop can be counted towards the total countertop frontage recommendation, but they may interfere with the landing areas.

Recommended:
In addition to general lighting required by code, every work surface should be well illuminated by appropriate task lighting.

Code Requirement:

* At least one wall-switch controlled light must be provided. Switch must be placed at the entrance. (IRC E 3803.2)
* Window/skylight area, equal to at least 8% of the total square footage of the kitchen, or a total living space which includes a kitchen, is required. (IRC R 303.1, IRC R 303.2)

Thanks for all the great input and info! I will order that guide - I'm sure it will be a great help.

I will likely move the stove closer to the window. I can put 15 inches on each side of the stove and be comfortable without going too far into the dining room. This would make the stove centered between the end of the counter (before the peninsula starts) and the window. I could go closer to the window, as long as it is allowed, it just wouldnt be centered anymore.. that wouldnt be the worst thing in the world, i just thought it would look nice if I am able to pull it off.

question about your layout - what is that area to the left of your sink? do you like blind cabinets? i hate them but i didn't have one of those cool swing out things.

To the left, while facing the sink.. is a narrow cabinet and counter, then the fridge. To the right is the diswhasher and some filler pieces. I got frustrated with the software and didnt get it all in there real nice. If I put the dishwasher under the other window, I could put a lazy susan in the corner, but I dont know if that will work or not with the water lines and all....