I'm not familiar with some of the series you mentioned. We have 3 different Robern Medicine cabs. Two bathrooms have the mid-range series cabs--the __ series (?--have to check on that) and the MB has a 6" deep M series cab. We are very happy with all three. Did not get built-in electrical outlet. No need for them in our bathrooms. We did recess all three. When we got the first one, for our guest bathroom, they had a lower series which our sales-guy talked us out of. He said it was a builder's grade cab. We'd worked with him before, and he was very good about talking us out of spending money where it wasn't warranted, and when to spring for the bigger $. If he said not to get the other series, I have to believe he had our best interests at heart.

My cabinets are being built right now and (a few days delayed) are going to be installed Monday and painted white. I plan to get them painted onsite (right or wrong, a decision made when I placed the cab order) My cab guy recommended that my painter use pre-cat laquer finish as it is supposed to be 'much more durable and easier and faster to apply'. My painter is accustom to using an oil based enamel but appears to have no concerns using the laquer. However, I called the laquer rep ML campbell and they recommend that the pre-cat laquer only be sprayed in a booth (not in a home). My cab guy says as long as my kitchen is masked off well and ventilated, we are out of the house for a day, we should be fine. Any of you have experience with laquer enough to know if this is true - if I'm OK to have laquer sprayed on cabs in the home? Or too risky? I know the laquer is HIGHLY flammable. Sorry, maybe better for paint forum, but I've had no luck getting feedback on this and need to make a decision in like two days, and I'm just as concerned about durability of white cabs as OP. Toddler, dog, and one on the way. OP - I can say that my cab maker demonstrated how durable the laquer finish is and I thought it seemed pretty dang good. He scratched it with a knife and then used laquer thinner to 'melt' the lacquer around it and smooth out the scratch. pretty slick. Eased my concerns about touch up of lacquer cabinets vs paint (I was afraid the laquer would be harder to me to touch up with a paint brush)

Lisa, to reinforce what gooster said, there's nothing to removing the baffles. You just put your hand on the bottom, in the middle, lift and remove. Poik! Handles like on the Prizer would be superfluous on the ModernAire. Poik! is a one handed operation. The baffles are light. It's about like lifting a plate out of a plate rack, but without the weight and fragility, and with a nice grip. So, here are some pictures for you. Let me know if there are any more you need. I didn't take a face picture of the hood because the old picture is so good, if you want a current one let me know. I don't know if you can tell, but the powder coated hood was made pretty much the same way as the brass one. The sides are folded under on the bottom, and riveted in the corners, with the inside bits on top of them. The hood hasn't been cleaned in quite awhile. I don't do a lot of greasy foods so there's more dust and finger prints than grease. The spots you see are tone differences in the brass, where it has been rubbed. Finger grease, not food grease. :) Old hood (36"?): New hood (48"): Dirty baffles (2 of four) on counter: Corner with baffles removed--you can see the slant: Back corner with baffles removed--you can see the channel they rest in. And the junction box. They screwed up the order--it came vent up rather than vent back--so the innards aren't as tidy as they might have been. (At least they're local.) They put a steel plate under the top opening, and made a new one for the blowers, but forgot to reroute the electric. My electrician did that. Doesn't bother me. I haven't heard of other people having these problems with them--even the best company has a royal splumph up now and then. There were a number of other isues, but they made it right in the end and it's still a great hood. Long shot of the corners without baffle: Blowers (2 x 600 cfm) and baffles in channel:

I would consider whether your kitchen is open to other rooms in your decision. Is this a new build, major remodel? You'll want these elements to blend. I must say that my island happened by accident. It was originally marble. That's a long story on another thread. Several problems came up during my remodel starting with the floor. My large sample did not have the light and dark variations, so I was quite dismayed when it was delivered. I could not take looking for another product and waiting for delivery and acclimation so I decided to keep it. It made finding countertops difficult. In my case, walnut was a low cost choice to pull in the colors in my wood floor and my brown/black island cabinets. It ends up that the floor gets the most attention, until their eyes move to the island. I think you are wise to think this out now. I would choose the White Macabaus on all surfaces if you go with the charcoal. If you decide on the walnut, I would do a rustic finish so the dents and scratches blend. We grew up up with many fine wood pieces in my parents home, all of which had the surfaces ruined by a household of kids. We did homework on our large dining table, but it had protector pads. You might do a shout out to those that have a Waterlox Satin finish to see how the finish is holding up, especially for scratches. A furniture finish like mine will require lots of maintenance to deal with scratches. I plan to experiment with the recent scratches that happened when family was visiting last week. My nephew dragged a serving platter to get it closer to his plate. The finish does seem to level out over time. I had deep scratches from bathing my puppy last summer that are hardly noticeable now. Another thing to note is that Waterlox has a long cure time.