About 80% done... many many pics... reveal
Never ever ever thought I'd say this, but here's my "reveal". Photos are taken with my cell phone since camera died.
We started here about 3 years ago:
Start of demo:
To this starting with the entry into our little 2 bedroom home:
dining area:
kitchen from dining area:
bakers table/frig area:
Beginning of sink run:
Overhang:
Cooktop/backsplash/hood area from down by ovens:
window/buffet/prep area:
incomplete oven area:
Long shot from behind by the ovens:
Lots of prep here:
some of my favorite veining:
We sit here to eat every meal... dirty dishes right into the sink!
Tried to get a shot of the 3 giant windows in the sunroom that the kitchen overlooks:
hardware:
another long shot:
It may be "uncooth" to say, but I love so much about my kitchen. I have not one regret or an "I wish I would have." We still have filler, end panels, a few doors but we are very close. The function of the space is amazing and I have rhome and other GW'rs to thank IMMENSELY for that. My youngest just came down to visit today and was taken about by how "beautiful" he thought it was. The space is kinda "zen like". Very informal, very earthy, very functional, very very me. So thank you, thank you, thank you from the bottom of my heart for the patience, help, support, and advice I've received over the years. We are so completely happy and at peace here. It's a blessing... and I am forever grateful.
Elyse xo
Comments (114)
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My bathroom renovation: Before and after. Many, many pics.
Comments (26)The paint color on the lower half of the wall is just a very light lavender. The upper half is more purple. I actually mixed the lavender myself, by adding a little of the purple paint to some white paint. The fake tile (sheet vinyl) floor came from Linoleum City in Los Angeles. I looked and looked and looked for that vinyl and Linoleum City is the only place that sells it. I called a salesman there and asked about it. He said they had a unique contract with Tarkett (I think) to produce this product and he didn't think it was sold anywhere else in the country. Their number one client is Hollywood. Set-building people buy it by the roll to use on the sets. The sheet vinyl creates the look of early 20 Century hex tile floor in a jiffy. :) The light fixtures and medicine chest are reproductions. The light fixtures came from Rejunvenation Hardware and the medicine chest came from Van Dykes Restoration hardware. All these years of writing about old houses and I finally got to use some of the resources I've been writing about. Thanks for all the nice comments. Rose Here is a link that might be useful: linoleum city link...See MoreQuartersawn oak cabinets in a modern kitchen?
Comments (31)mobuddy89 - all of these months later and we're still working on it. We did get sample slab doors from both Barker (quarter sawn white oak) and Scherr's (quarter sawn and rift cut white oak). We like all three, and so got price quotes for all three. Barker is the most economical, but they won't grain match and we're concerned about that. Will the combination of variations in the grain, without grain matching, and drawer-fronts running one way with door-fronts running the other way, just be to much for our kitchen look? If we can afford it, we'll go with Scherr's rift cut that is grain-matched. Our second choice is Scherr's quarter sawn grain-matched. I really wish we could make this decision because it will drive other material choices! We have general ideas for the backsplash (white tile), counter (white quartz), appliances (we've actually picked these - in stainless), and a sheet linoleum floor in a cement / gray color. Then we also have some vintage pottery in aquas, blues, greens that we'll display. Did you decide on anything for cabinets?...See MoreKitchen Renovation Reveal - many pics
Comments (37)Thank you for all the nice comments! We are really enjoying it. Oasisowner- the blinds came from overstock.com. The best price by far and in widths by the inch. We are lining them though because so much sunlight comes through and no privacy at night. We are following the directions from Blog.jennasuedesign.com and the first one we did came out great. I hate kitchen curtains and custom shades are so expensive. I also wanted more organic elements in the room. Funkycamper- that detail was a nice surprise. The cabinet maker did a spectacular job on these. The 2 glass doors are the only ones painted inside and with set shelves so they line up perfectly with the window grid and the shelves are invisible....See MoreBring it On! Additional Floor Plan Options Open to Critique! Help Me!
Comments (26)I did a mock-up, using Paint, to show you the view from the hallway. It's rough but hopefully it's enough to help you visualize the changes. I brought the LR's carpeted area towards the kitchen, close to the left side of the bay window. I started out extending the LR wainscotting towards the window but if I took it to the window molding, it looked crowded. But it also didn't look right if I stopped it short of the window molding. I think it's a cleaner look without the wainscotting but you should also do mock-ups and decide which look you prefer. If you intend to redo the entire space - LR, nook and kitchen - with the same flooring, then I think the wainscotting should go because it adds an arbitrary demarcation. You will need to redo your kitchen lighting, remove the table chandelier and add island pendants, all of which will require rewiring and ceiling repair. If your ceiling is flat (no texture), it's an easier/less expensive repair. If it has a brocade or knock down texture, the contractor may recommend floating the whole ceiling. Only the very most skilled of drywallers can do a repair of a textured ceiling without leaving behind any tell-tale sign of the repair. If after the remodel is done, you feel that the bay window looks a bit empty, you can always add a shallow console table (15" - 18" deep so that it doesn't crowd the seating aisle and narrower than the window) under the bay window. Add a pair of candlestick lamps for additional lighting and store your cook books here. "Maybe I can sell the double oven and buy a counter-depth fridge (although I am concerned about whether or not it would be big enough). If I can find a way to add a 2nd under-the-counter fridge, I would feel more comfortable. We may need to keep our regular size fridge for a couple of years, so do I plan for the larger fridge or the counter depth?" Try keeping your fridge less full, similar in capacity to a CD fridge and see how it works for you for a least a month. If you can manage using less space, then buy a CD fridge. If, however, you regularly fill up the fridge, don't downsize, at least not until you're empty nesters (*) so I wouldn't plan the lay-out based on a CD fridge at this point. I don't think an under-counter fridge is a good solution for you. They are expensive (as are CD fridges) plus it would reduce your cabinet storage capacity, which isn't in abundant supply as it is. (* DH and I are nearly empty nesters (DS2 soon to be 25, soon to be moving out) but we downsized to a CD fridge about 7 or 8 years ago and it's never been a problem for us. My brother and SIL are empty nesters, and have been for a few years but when they built their home, they super-sized their fridge/freezer capacity by going with a 36" all fridge and a 36" all freezer. They entertain regularly and host large family gatherings often; a CD fridge would never work for them.) (I can't remember if I've suggested this or not so excuse me if I'm repeating myself.) If you haven't done a kitchen item tally, do this asap. Group items by use and measure how wide a drawer or upper cabinet you'll need to store these items. I used painter's blue tape to mark drawer sizes on my counter and placed items within the lines to figure out drawer widths and storage plans. Once you do this, you will be able to determine drawer sizes, drawer lay-outs and how much storage you need. It takes time but it is incredibly helpful in making lay-out decisions. My plan: The final result: This is in a 33" cabinet with 30" interior width and 20" interior depth. Your usable drawer space will depend on the cabinet line and style. My cabinets are face frame but they are built like frameless so my drawers are wider than they would be in another line of face-frame cabinets. (we used a local custom cab shop so I was able to request features such as drawer within a drawer. I did that for this and 3 other drawers in my kitchen. That helped me make use of every inch of storage capacity in my modestly-sized kitchen.) This exercise also helped me determine that I could get by without upper cabinets on my cook top wall, which meant that I didn't have to center my hood between window and door, which meant that I could have a wider drawer base to the left of my cook top, which is what I needed for storage here. Whew, that's one heck of a long sentence but you can see how one thing relates to another and another and another. It seems daunting until you break it down. You likely will need to try several variations - at least I did - before you figure out the best storage plan. Also, even if I've said this before, it bears repeating: in almost all cases, drawers are going to make the most of your cabinet storage. I would, hands down, save $$ elsewhere in my kitchen in order to upgrade to drawers any day of the week. PS I pointed you to scrappy's marvelous kitchen storage. I'll try to find other past kitchen reveals that showed storage savvy and point you towards them. if you think it would help you to see my kitchen's organization - inside my drawers - let me know and I'll post a link for you....See MoreRelated Professionals
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I"m not quite sure what kind of pic I can send that will help you but here is an old pic right after installation that shows the flush mount. The sink is supported but a horizontal piece of wood underneath. You can somewhat see that in the pic. Please let me know if there is some other kind of pic that will help you and I"d be more then happy to take one. The sink is considered an apron front sink.
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stacey... here are some close up pics I just took of the seam. This is after 3 years of daily HARD use and abuse. I didn't even scrub for you. Hopefully, that helps you some. We had the most amazing soapstone fabricator there is.
josephine... What a lovely post! Thank for your taking the time to respond to it. It's kinda a kick that after all this time this thread popped up again. I"m getting a charge that no matter what forum you go on the pic pops up!
My 15 minutes of fame maybe?? - 10 years agolast modified: 9 years ago
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South FLorida has it benefits and the nap was beyond glorious! OK... here's some pics I just took. I did not clean, wipe, or straighten up a surface for ya'll. In fact, I'm in the middle of cooking dinner.
INside of drawers. You can see one is split and the other whole. I really need to organize... I tried to get a pic of the oxidation on the inside of the zinc drawers. I think they are zinc.
this is inside the single drawer"
see how orignial it is:
How to the soapstone questions. I have not oiled in at least 3 months... maybe longer. We clean with a hot soapy rag. I put anything and everything down on it though do not cut directly on it. I'm posting pics from teh most heavily used spots. I really don't have any chipping or dinging to speak of. Surface scratches if I look but with my pattern hidden. If I so oil/wax, it disappears:
most prominent scratch I have from dragging my huge cutting board back and forth multiple times daily.
The most vulnerable spot right in front of the cooktop:
and lastly the space between the cooktop and sink where we often dry large items. Ususally we just put a towel down first:
I hope the pics are too big but are helpful. Photobucket has changed up since I really used it.
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