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Help with wall mount versus counter mount kitchen faucet

14 years ago

I have committed myself to getting the Kohler Karbon faucet.

I had initially planned to get the counter model and prices have come down, so even feel like I'm getting a deal :-).

BUT... now that I am trying to fit the sink, I realize that I take a big hit on sink size that could be minimized by using a wall-mount faucet. Fortunately the Karbon can now be gotten as a wall mount.

BUT... I'm concerned about maintenance issues with a wall mount. The wall on which it will be mounted cannot be accessed from the other side, so should I just forget about it? or deal with it if or when the water connection or valve needs attention.

I assume that the valve cannot be installed lower than the faucet. Is this true?

Here is a link that might be useful: two Karbon faucet configurations

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Comments (3)

davidro1
14 years ago
The valve is right behind the joystick (single-lever handle).

The cartridge is there too, inside the valve body, and it's removable and replaceable once you unscrew the escutcheon (round plate) that the joystick comes out of.

Not a big deal.
Wall mounts are what they are.
It wouldn't worry me.

Are you working with copper plumbing? Pex plumbing? CPVC plumbing? Some other kind?

They are all good. Use good materials. When in doubt, use the better of two choices. Do a good job. That's all. Sleep tight.

I opened the PDF on the Kohler site. The escutcheon is 2-5/8" (6.7 cm) diameter, and it's only 2â³ (5.1 cm) diameter for the valve with single-lever handle.

Personally I'd like a One-Inch (1" or less than 26mm) cartridge for my next wall mount project.
If anyone knows of one, holler back please.
sue36
14 years ago
Where do you live? Wall mount faucets are not recommended in cold climates unless you build a double wall. (we had to put our washer on an exterior wall so we insulated the exterior 2x6 and then built another 2x6 inside that which the piping goes in). If you use PEX it will not break, but it will still freeze. I have a toilet supply in PEX that freezes when it goes below 5 and it's a PITA.
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Tough and I agree that the rolling cart is probably best. However, if you are really wanting this countertop space, you could remove the ?stool? trim (the bottom vertical part of the window trim)and the top drawers on each side (perhaps the 2nd drawer on the left as well). Place a shelf inside the cabinets under where the drawers are and use lower height slide out baskets on top of those shelves in place of the drawers to store less-used items. You could then add a counter under the window and still have some use out of those blocked areas. You might want to limit the depth so that you can still access the main part of the cabinet on the left and the lower drawers on the right. This could be a real PITA though. If you are considering this you should mock it up with plywood across that space laid on top of the counters to see what it feels like accessing those blocked drawers and cabinet.
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7' might be a tad crowded for 4 stools unless you can sneak one in on the end....i usually figure 24" per person. If you plan on using the end, then you should have the counter 24" deep. If that's too deep, then you might want to at least round the ends as that gives a little more elbow room to whoever is sitting there. "Table-height surfaces should be at least 18 inches deep, because your knees are bent at right angle. Taller chairs require less bend in the knees. The NKBA recommends a depth of 15 inches for a counter-height surface and 12 inches for a bar-height surface. "
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just wanted to commiserate with you on the plumbing problems. We have an old house were the plumbing was added later. They dug under one end of the house about 10x10 with an exterior entrance, and all the plumbing was put on that corner. We wanted to put in a bathroom closer to the bedrooms and move the kitchen, so we had to run the pipes under what would be the new bathroom floor. Kitchen sink had to be installed on the same wall as the bathroom sink, with the pipes and drain/venting going through the wall into the bathroom cabinet, then down into the floor. As it was, the distance was almost too long for the drop and to still be able to hook up to the outgoing line. That would have required a lift pump in the cellar, not something we wanted to consider. This is the bathroom side of the wall. If we ever have problems, our cheapest solution will be to hand dig a trench under the bathroom to access the pipes. Hope that never happens. I don't think we would have room for a garbage disposal either, as the drain goes into the wall and then down. Since we have a septic system, doing without a disposal was not a hard choice.
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Wall mounted is considerably more expensive. Apron sinks are pulled forward in the cabinets, and have room at the rear for a faucet mount.
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profrip
Original Author
14 years ago
Thanks for your replies.

The wall is not an exterior wall --so no problem with cold--just another apartment.

Plumbing is to be replaced back to the riser in my renovation,
so I assume I can have any material I want -- is copper best?

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