URGENT-Butcherblock: John Boos vs Michigan Maple vs Craft-Art

11 years ago

My friend is trying to decide on a maple butcherblock island top with a prep sink to be undermounted. She received prices on a custom size and they vary from $850 to $1100 and $2000. Why the big price differences between them. They're all priced in maple, same size, sink cut out and delivery. One is raw, one has tung oil finish and the other has some special factory coating that claims zero maintenance.

If any of you have done their research on these wood tops, please let us know. She needs to order by Friday!

Featured Answer

breezygirl

11 years ago

Wallycat, I keep getting those messages also. It started about two weeks ago, I think. Fortunately for me, my first post isn't actually posting like yours is. I've seen a spate of this type of re-posting recently.. Maybe a GW glitch? Perhaps someone should contact Tamra?

Kompy--I received quotes on my black walnut island counter with sink from Boos, Craft-Art, and a couple of other places. In the end, I was nervous about the exactness of the sink cutout, placement, etc when constructing something from such a distance.

I searched out and found a local woodworker who frequently makes counters. He took my prep sink to his shop in order to get the cutout perfectly perfect, and he did the install himself. Adding my runnels and an up-mounting of sorts with the sink so it wasn't undermounted as deeply as it would have been and hence making a deep sink even deeper, my total cost with install was just a bit less than my highest internet quote.

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Comments (12)

herbflavor
11 years ago
Zero Maintenance? first of all-the maintenance is not difficult. the initial coating-say tung oil-several coats,isn't even that bad....I've done it on a few wood surfaces in 2 homes-as in 3 coats on vertically installed teak tongue/groove on the sides of the sunroof alcove at 9 ft height in a bath. The initial multiple coatings is a little more consuming of your time-after that you learn how/when to do it.Depends on your use/habits/climate/etc.The butcher block table I have gets done when I'm seriously cleaning the kitchen and no one is around,to let the oil dry in. I say-do it all yourself-spend the money on a cool edge treatment. But see what the next price point up has to offer.....I just don't really buy "zero Maintenace"-but maybe they have something going that no one else can replicate??? sounds too perfect-this surface is desired to age beautifully and get a patina anyway, in my opinion.
wallycat
11 years ago
I think the zero maintenance is the polyurethene they use --like a permanent coating of poly. Unless you cut it, it should be maintenance free (from everything I have read).
If she is using a sink, and especially undermount, I would think that is what she would be interested in, at least near the sink area and underneath.
Cost varies depending on where the fabricators are (and what it costs them to get the maple) and distance to ship to customer.
Probably some marketing costs filled in there.
LOVE wood. Have her post when it is finished!

We finally got a slab of counter (Beech I think it was) from IKEA 73"x36" or some such dimensions for about $200, not counting gas for a 4 hour drive roundtrip. We plan to strip and seal this fall and I am thinking of using the poly. We will only have an induction cooktop on it.
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Hey there babs. Wood with marble ....YUM! Go for it! We did Bianco Antico perimeter (chickened out on marble) and Mahogany top for our island and yes, made by a local small town custom wood worker. I paid $710 for our top. I have no idea how many sq ft it is but guessing around 30-35.... we quoted me for maple (or was it oak...can't remember now, which ever is the hardest!) and then he realized I wanted a darker top then that wood could provide, so he gave me the mahogany at the same price because he had it on hand. Lucky me! I chose to have it finished with a sealer vs oil....whatever sealer he uses, not sure what its called. He did tell me mahogany was about a 6 on the hardness scale of wood (10 being hardest). I wanted walnut based on all the beauties I have seen on GW, but it would have cost me more and I felt like I was already getting a deal by getting mahogany for the price of maple / oak. Truthfully, I an really happy with what we have. I get a lot of compliments on it. But then again, while its often seen on here, NO ONE in our area has anything like it. I did have him tint it/stain it so it would be less red than what mahogany is. Durability....it has only been in since the first week of December, so early to say. NO dings of any sort, but fine hairline scratches. I use this all the time, I do all my prep work on it, when I should be doing it on the granite. I suppose had we chose the oiled option they would be less noticeable, but they aren't noticeable from a distance, just up close or from the right angle. If you are considering marble, I would venture to say these wouldn't bother you. You can't feel them with your hand, just see them, they are that hairline fine. I did call to get a quote from a place in Michigan that ships anywhere. He was a bit more reasonable in price, but it seemed more sensible to have a local guy do it in case we had any problems. Here is a link that might be useful: Block Top in Michigan
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One of the woodworkers that was mentioned on another thread uses this Sherwin Williams Lacquer... Thoughts? It comes in dull rub. Here's part of an email he sent to me. (This surface is not for cutting on) "" It is used for restaurant tables, counter tops and islands where the primary use is for service purposes and not for direct cutting. It is available in matt or what sherwin calls dull rub, semi gloss and gloss. 99% of all our blocks using a hard surface finish use the dull rub laquer. The catalyst adds hardness. It is water and stain resistant like waterlox but unlike waterlox it is hard and clear. Waterlox yellows the block. Most people who have hard surface finishes use a cutting matt or block and store it under the top or in a drawer. " Sounds good. I wonder how it wears and also if you can do small repairs by sanding and refinished or if you'd have to do the whole top. I'll call again next week. Maybe I can get a sample piece. I like that it comes in dull rub and supposedly doesn't yellow the block. Here is a link that might be useful: Sher-WOOD Catalyzed Lacquer
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Thank you all for your comments!! I wasn't expecting so many so I'm really impressed. Unfortunately they requested to take the cookstove with them when they sold the house so it isn't available. We live 100s of miles from an Ikea (in the UP of Michigan) so I think that option is out and also being an island it would get expensive in a hurry having to customize it (2 countertops plus shipping is well over $300) It would be a great option I think if we were closer to one. I think the craft-art countertop would be up in that range for price as well although I appreciate that it is much more DIY friendly. Our first idea when we wanted to build the counter tops was to buy the raw wood from a local craftsman (he has some stuff with really interesting grain that we used to build our bed recently) and it a very good price, but we are afraid it will be a headache and not turn out well trying to get it all level. We also read about people using wood flooring. We would prefer to use unfinished wood if we went that route but its hard to find tounge and groove (again, we want the seems to be good and flush). Finished solid wood we would consider but we would want to add another layer of finish in order to seal the cracks. Can you put epoxy over finished wood? Using flooring would be around $150 for the whole island .. is this a bad option? Does anyone have experience using these? Thank you all again!!
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I keep seeing these super sealed shiny looking wood island tops in photos and think they have to be more indestructible than a typical butcher block would be. In case you don't want super shiny, Waterlox can be done in a Satin finish which looks more like a hand-rubbed oil finish with the waterproof protection of something shinier. You'd use the original/sealer for the first 2 coats, then follow with cloth-applied coats of the Satin. Waterlox also has a marine finish, which is recommended for exterior uses, but isn't necessary on countertops. In the following photo, you can see the Waterlox Satin, hand-rubbed type of sheen on the cabinet door vs the lacquer finish DH sprayed on the trim around the bookshelf...He forgot about the Waterlox we were doing in our house, and was doing another project with the lacquer and finished both together.
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wallycat
11 years ago
I think the zero maintenance is the polyurethene they use --like a permanent coating of poly. Unless you cut it, it should be maintenance free (from everything I have read).
If she is using a sink, and especially undermount, I would think that is what she would be interested in, at least near the sink area and underneath.
Cost varies depending on where the fabricators are (and what it costs them to get the maple) and distance to ship to customer.
Probably some marketing costs filled in there.
LOVE wood. Have her post when it is finished!

We finally got a slab of counter (Beech I think it was) from IKEA 73"x36" or some such dimensions for about $200, not counting gas for a 4 hour drive roundtrip. We plan to strip and seal this fall and I am thinking of using the poly. We will only have an induction cooktop on it.
wallycat
11 years ago
Sorry for the ginormous posts....I kept getting a message that it was not posting.
Clearly a software glitch.
SORRY!
wallycat
11 years ago
Sorry for the ginormous posts....I kept getting a message that it was not posting.
Clearly a software glitch.
SORRY!
wallycat
11 years ago
sorry for the too many posts. I am getting weird messages here as internal server problems.
EATREALFOOD
11 years ago
My Craft-Art estimate for 17.33 sq ft (one run of counter)no cutouts except 1 pipe, 1.25"edge: Qtr Hickory, Red Oak Face Sawn or Rustic Black Walnut--Edge Grain construction with Tung oil finish:$1976.
Delivery/template/install: $412.
I decided against it and chose soapstone, the less expensive option
dseng
11 years ago
You might mention www.hardwood-lumber.com to your friend. We purchased two pieces of maple butcherblock from them and had it shipped here to Alaska. It was very well packaged and protected, the staff was helpful when I talked to them, and their prices were better than anywhere else I found. The butcher block is well made. Destined to become the seating surface for the cantilevered banquette seating that will result from our latest remodeling project - (a complete living/dining room to-the-studs job). To keep this kitchen related, we hope to be eating food prepared in the kitchen at our new banquette by late August. (Re-framing walls and insulating right now).
CEFreeman
11 years ago
wallycat,
Perhaps you might want to go back and look before you assume it doesn't post. We all go thru this periodically.

If you don't want to lose what you've written, ctrl+c to copy it all, then past it back if for some crazy reason it didn't post the first, 2nd, 3rd, 4th (stop me -- or you!) time.
wallycat
11 years ago
Thanks.
I did check and it wasn't showing up and then the 3rd time, they all showed up....apologies.
jakuvall
11 years ago
I've noticed a lot of posiitives on the forum for Boos. Note that they have a few grades in particular for larger sizes. I was burned on a job with that once and wasn't happy getting it resolved.
Have used Craft Art with no issues.

I now use Engrain and am very happy with everythin, prices are close to Craft Art. Priced one big job between them and Grothouse and Engrain was cheaper. I like them, no I love em.
Have used Quinique and Spekva,only spoke with Michigan at KBIS.
Not much profit in counters, I simply want them to consistantly meet customer expectations. I will no longer deal with anyone but Engrain. Occasionally a client wants Boos to save money, I'll point them to suppliers but I won't sell it, don't want the risk.

URGENT-Butcherblock: John Boos vs Michigan Maple vs Craft-Art

breezygirl

Comments (12)

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wallycat

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