Tell me about your experience with Build.com?
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please share with me your experience about insect
Comments (2)A way back when, I was on the farm as a child and 'bugs' were the bane of our existence. We never thought much about beneficial insects, but were hghly concerned about bugs that ruined our crops or made us and the animals miserable, e.g., potato bugs, tomato worms (catapillars), corn borer, aphids, grass hoppers, inch worms, cedar-spple rust, horse flies, deer flies, blow files, house flies, misquitos, mites, fleas, ticks, lice, spiders (not an insect strictly speaking), wasps, meal bugs, roaches, katydids, moths, etc. I suppose that the reason we did not pay much attention to beneficial insects is because these did not bother or harm us. Insects in this class are bees, dragon flies, damsel flies, certain wasps, walking sticks, and pollinators. Many crops would fail if these pollinators were missing, and some beneficial bugs keep a numer of the nasty ones in check. One summer, I made a butterfly collection for a science project. It was a challenge because I did not have access to chloroform to anesitize(sp) these delicate insects. The tiny scales on their wings and bodies markings are critical to identification and quality of display....See MoreThermadore oven owners..Please tell me about your experience!!!
Comments (22)If you are having an installition tech do the install, he will undoubtedly, cut out the back of the cabinet. I installed into a 27" standard oven cabinet. and so I had close tolerances and careful front surgery to do on the cabinet. Installing into the larger cabinet should be easier for your tech. I was doing the install myself, and when I encountered the depth issue, I called a carpenter friend that does a lot of kitchen installs. I asked him how often he has this kind of problem and what he does about it. He told me that it happens about half the time, and he just starts cutting the back until he gets enough space. If cutting the back panel isn't enough, he said that he just "starts hacking the drywall away" until he gets enough space. I had enough depth after I cut a sizeable piece out of the back panel. It amazes me that the appliance manuf. don't design to the standard cabinet size spec, and don't warn you that this could happen. I had a real sinking feeling, when I first realized that it was not going to fit into the cabinet. It turns out that cutting the back panel does not compromize the structural integrity of the cabinet. BTW, I installed into Thomasville cabinets. But I did check other brands of cabinets, and it was going to be a problem in all of them. If you were concerned about oven size, why didn't you get a 30" oven? That is monstous inside. I could not fit a 30" cabinet in, but I would have preferred to have the 30". Goodluck Carguy...See MoreDIY or prefab soapstoners, please tell me about your experiences:
Comments (2)We did the prefabricated from M. Tex and it wasn't that bad. One of the easier parts of the DIY actually! We made templates instead of sending measurements. I would strongly recommend that. I makes you really have to think all the details through in a way that we wouldn't have if it had been just measuring. We got large sheets of card stock from an art supply store and taped them together. The card stock was stiff enough but could be rolled up to mail. The tricky part was the sink reveal and apron sink interaction. Oh, and the arc in for the banquette! We messed up by not having epoxy purchased from a supplier and had to get some stuff that wasn't as easy to work with. Just get that ahead of time. Otherwise the seams were pretty easy. Also tape each side with painters tape and make sure it's all level. Don Cuwish put together a great thread on DIY soapstone... Here is a link that might be useful: DIY Soaptone from Don C...See MoreNew Windows~What's Your Experience?Tell Me Like I'm Six Years Old
Comments (24)Cup of Glad this thread is continuing to get so much traffic. I'm curious first, why are you replacing your windows? I ask because what most people don't realize is in "most" cases the best windows for any home are the ones that were originally installed - The exceptions to that can range from poor quality windows, poor install, failure Think about many homes that were built around turn of the century - 75 -100 yrs ago, how the windows have stood the test of time. Yes, they are not "energy efficient" however, from a proper fit & aesthetic view point they work. I think when the window sales people massage the homeowner on the "efficiency" issue - If you are changing out 16 windows let's say at avg rate of $750/window - for product & install that would be 12K - . The equation the sales people negate to offer said homeowner is what the return on investment would be & how long it would take to get there. I have done this, believe me - It would take most folks 10-20yrs to realize any investment. If you have done your homework & still feel replacement is the way to go - other considerations that should be taken; What is the original architectural render of the home? Can a replacement window capture that? think size/scale - muntins, mullions, configuration, trim, fascia - One can't just figure a one size fit & then install without a compromise elsewhere. Pictures of the exterior of your home in daylight & night help with proper choices. This is where I see many failures. One can have a beautiful 1900 home and take out all windows & replace w/replica vinyl - One could put in custom wood in the same home, but that does not guarantee aesthetically correct rendering. I found looking in window books & catalogs helpful only to a certain degree - I had to make sure the size, material configuration was indeed matching to what the original rendering of the home was (that was only for 4 windows!). Yes, it took some doing - when I finally thought I had it right, my architect friend brought yet another issue to light - "The muntins make the window look squatty" huh? - turns out the configuration of the muntins created a rather horizontal appearance in the individual panes rather than vertical - she was right. BTW we used Marvins - the project was a kitchen gut in 1930 Dutch colonial home. The replacement windows were done because the part of the kitchen we replaced the windows was once a screened in porch and PO put in aluminum picture windows w/side casements on front & back - ALL wrong for the home & unbalanced. Research here and other places led me to the Marvins - very pleased with the product. For the rest of the windows (26) double hung - we considered Marvin's sash replacement product (mentioned above) but do to the scope of our original renovation & cost over runs we decided against this. Instead I found "the window doctor" - yes that is the name of his company. For $200/window he replaced all parting strips, re-weighted where needed, all new roping, repaired chalking - Many of the windows were not operational, painted shut etc. Every window is now operational & they are lovely over 80 yrs young & very fitting to the home. I wish more homeowners would give consideration to rehabbing windows rather than ripping them out for a substandard product. Ok, I'm an old house snob - truth is told Best to you - stepping off soapbox...See MoreRelated Professionals
Buffalo Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Riviera Beach Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Beachwood Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Fullerton Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Bethel Park Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Fair Oaks Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Hunters Creek Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Martha Lake Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Olney Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · West Palm Beach Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Wadsworth Cabinets & Cabinetry · Baldwin Tile and Stone Contractors · Eastchester Tile and Stone Contractors · Bell Design-Build Firms · Palos Verdes Estates Design-Build Firms- 3 years ago
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