Oh NO! Range hood installed and it's SOOO loud. Normal?
Stacey Collins
14 years ago
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3katz4me
14 years agoweissman
14 years agoRelated Discussions
suggestions for good little normal under cab range vent
Comments (10)Sorry, can't help w/a shallow hood. But, you should know that the extra depth is needed to increase the capture area. If you have only an 18" deep hood, then you won't have the hood over the front burners...it will stop 6" before the front of the range. 24" is actually even better...especially if you plan to do your sauteing on the front burners. I suspect you won't find a good hood that's only 18" deep...but, I could be wrong. How well did your old one work? If you think it worked fine (i.e., captured smoke/steam/etc from the front burners), then why not just get the same one again (or reuse the old one)? If you don't think it worked well...maybe part of the reason is the 18" depth... Have you checked on the Appliances Forum? Here is a link that might be useful: Appliances Forum...See MoreCommercial Range Hood Install
Comments (129)The original author no doubt has installed a type 1 hood with type 2 duct operating at type 1 capacity 1400cfm. Yes. I don't need full on commercial type 1. Per above we will not produce the amount of grease or smoke that requires a full type 1 system. HOWEVER, we like most residential, do need more than Type 2. We do produce some grease and smoke and some kind of baffle/filter is needed (or at least highly beneficial). The amount of stuff that I cleaned off our VAH and our current Accurex is a testament to that. So residential is perhaps realistically Type 1a (moderately heavy grease/smoke) and Type 1b (light grease/smoke) that are both less stringent requirements than full Type 1 (very heavy grease/smoke). Our need/desire for a commercial hood though had nothing to do with that but rather containment. Consumer hoods all have inadequate containment volume (as well as inadequate capture area). So really the only thing about this system that is 'commercial' is that I have a bigger empty box. We actually looked at using something like a Wolf and adding a 14" extension to the bottom of it to effectively increase its containment volume but in the end the cost to just have Accurex build a proper hood wasn't that much more expensive. That was my issue w/ the ignorance displayed by @Angela Bickford on numerous levels. A bigger empty box like ours does not create a need for greater MUA or greater exhaust CFM's but actually quite the opposite as having proper containment results in much better effectiveness with lower CFM's (which is what is really bad about consumer hoods not simply having proper containment volume). @catinthehat, as well as many others, actually have more rated CFM's than we do. Though we have a '1400 CFM blower' it is only used at 84% max or 1200 CFM but the larger blower is quieter at lower speeds and that is something that Accurex and CaptiveAire both do routinely to help reduce noise....See MoreRange Hood Noise Project
Comments (64)@opaone Thanks for the reply . My recent google search says that there is a direct formula to convert sones to decibels . Maybe this will help some people: dB = 33.2×log10(Sones) + 28 But for those a little less math oriented, there are conversion tables online. Of course, this formula does not help to tell you how loud a range hood will be based on published information since the published information is garbage . But at least it will help people prove that their range hood manufacturer is a liar . I did exactly that with a previous range hood and got a refund . So here are my data: Range hood make and model: GE UVW9631 professionally installed. Duct is about 1.5 meters long , right angle, externally exhausted , a reducer from 8” to 6” was required Ambient: 35 dB Low: 51 dB Medium: 60 dB High: 64 dB Boost: 67 dB Ambient: 35dB This is the published noise rating from GE (cfm/sones): 100/1.0 (Working Speed) 290/2.5 (Medium Speed) 380/4.0 (High Speed) 610/- (Boost Speed) For reference, the actual noise level of 51dB on low fan speed is about 5 sones , compared to the advertised 1 sone, 28dB. Way off....See MoreBest by Broan Range Hood (WPP9) v Vent-A-Hood (Magic Lung)?
Comments (51)Broan/NuTone/Best make a large range of ventilation equipments and generally you get what you pay for as far as I can tell. However, why a "high end" appliance dealer wouldn't include some other brands is unclear. At a minimum, I would expect a Wolf dealer to have examples of Wolf hoods. (My hood is a Wolf, made by Independent before Wolf moved production in-house.) Decide how high you want the hood for good site lines and reaching to the back burners, and missing one's head, while keeping in mind that the front burners will be emitting plumes that expand as they rise, so height corresponds to increases in needed overlap -- side to side and front to back. 10 degrees from vertical measured from the flame diameters when pans are on the burners can be used for plume expansion estimation. Sketch it out. Given a height and hence width and depth, calculate the square footage of the entry aperture of the hood. For wall hoods the light bar in the front may qualify as partial or whole entry aperture area. Multiply area by 90 CFM/sq. ft. Multiply by 1.5 if you don't know all the pressure losses. Find a blower that has that result as a rated value. Decide on in-hood, in attic (in line), or on roof. Farther away is generally quieter. If there is room for a silencer (Fantech) between blower and hood then the result will be quieter still. There is a lot of dissension about ease of hood cleaning by type. I can say that my Wolf hood baffle assemblies easily remove and can be cleaned in a dishwasher. (I have ten of these, so it takes two loads.) One still wants to reach up inside and wipe the surfaces. I use Simple Green, but likely there are myriad possible choices. I have never owned a VaH, and was initially repulsed (2007) by the Magic Lung® claims. Others like them. If you have guests sitting where they can see into the hood, a baffle system may be aesthetically superior. Duct should be sized so that full power actual flow rate achieves a velocity in the duct between 1000 and 2000 ft/min for best balance between grease condensation and grease impingement. You can go lower (larger duct) if you pre-heat the duct in cold weather. On CFM focus. Standard (if that actually ever applies) residential hoods are designed to fit into residential kitchens. Commercial hoods are designed to fit into commercial kitchens. At a minimum, the typical difference is two feet of ceiling height. When the commercial hood can be built so that there is tremendous volume below its baffles, there are conditions where the specific flow rate (CFM/sq. ft.) can be reduced below the value I suggested above. This is due to "baffle averaging" resulting from the reservoir volume vs. plume steady state and transient volumetric rates. At the other extreme, residential hoods with little volume below the baffles will allow plume escape (capture failure) if the plumes are not immediately entrained into the baffle flow. And, of course, plumes not initially captured are not contained and removed except as a matter of long term kitchen (and whole house) air replacement. So CFM focus varies. Another difference is that commercial hoods are typically operated at a fixed CFM and the MUA is balanced for this case, whereas residential hoods, along with bathroom fans, etc., operate at variable CFM, and this makes the MUA control more complex....See MoreStacey Collins
14 years agosusanilz5
14 years agoUser
14 years agoJean Farrell
14 years agoStacey Collins
14 years agosweeby
14 years agoStacey Collins
14 years agoJean Farrell
14 years ago
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