We recently installed Scherrs in our bathroom and in our kitchen. We're not finished yet, so there are no pictures of our kitchen on the Gallery. I'll try to include some here.

Our kitchen is red birch and our bathroom is select maple. We went with a basic shaker design door and a slab drawer front. We included door end panels and a bunch of rev-a-shelf components.

I'm happy to share price information, but I'm not sure it will do you much good. It is hard to standardize it (cost per foot or cost per box is pretty meaningless, I think). We received a quote from Scherrs and two local custom shops recommended by our KD. Scherrs was quite a bit cheaper (30-40%). Our drawers are dovetailed maple with Blum undermount soft close glides.

We are really happy with the cabinets. I've made some furniture over the years and I was really pleased with their selection of wood and how they matched boards. Ideally the banks of drawers would be from a single tree-- match booked. But I also can't imaging being able to afford such cabinets.

The installation is time consuming, no doubt. But, it wasn't too tricky. I would say that the one area that Scherrs could improve is the documentation. They send you most of the installation papers you need, but I would have love them bound in a spiral binder or 3-ring binder. Also, there are a couple things that they don't say (like the best way to attach the drawer fronts to the drawer box). But, Leon is super helpful and always responds quickly to email.

Our design also included an island. The drawers are so efficient (no wasted space) that it posed some issues for adding electrical to the island. We went with a plugmold, but it would have been difficult to add a switch or regular plug box because it would have hit the drawer. So, work with Leon to make sure he understands the plan.

Everyone who has seen the cabinets comments on them.

Sorry the pictures aren't better-- I haven't made the concrete counters yet. Also I haven't installed the crown molding yet.

Thanks overlyoptimistic. I understand that what you paid won't help much because of all the variations in options. I was just looking for some idea as to how much you save by putting them together yourself. I figured if you had an 8x10 kitchen and the cabinets were $30K, I'd know I didn't need to look any further ;-) The 30-40% less than your custom shop quotes help.

Good tip on the outlets. We have a downdraft and an outlet on each side of the island.

The kitchen looks great so far. Is that just a clear finish or is that a light stain? What type of opening did you get for the door hinges? I was trying to decided on 120 vs. 170. Mine currently open all the way but it doesn't seem like I ever do that. Is there any disadvantage to a door that opens wider?

The finish is just a matte clear coat-- no stain. For the door hinges, we selected the 120-- we don't have any pull outs and the 120 was fine for us. I seem to recall that the hinge on the 170 is slightly larger than the hinge on the 120. Also, seems like the door is more likely to bang into other things if it can extend beyond 120. But, given I don't have 170s, I'd better not say too much about what I don't know.

You can download a rough price guide from the Scherrs website to price out the doors and drawers. You can also call Scherrs for some rough pricing on the RTA cabinets. That should give you a better ball park.

Good luck!

Overly -did your butcherblock island top come from Scherrs as well?

The butcherblock was from Ikea. I was contemplating making it myself, but if I did, then I would never cut on it. We decided to be functional. I looked into Ikea and Lumber Liquidators. I stopped considering the latter after a problem with their butcherblock was discussed on the forum.

It is supported by two pieces of steel routed to the underside of it.

I've not posted pictures in the finished kitchens blog because I'm still not finished :-( and at this rate maybe never will. I also haven't taken newer pictures since getting to the mostly- finished stage, since I've been putting it off until the kitchen is done done. But below is an image showing most of the cabinets in the kitchen which is linked to a slide show showing more views of the mostly done kitchen.

All that remains at this point is deciding on a backsplash and installing it, and replacing the one remaining old light fixture that was "temporarily" installed until something that matches the rest of the lights could be found.

{{gwi:1567518}}

Nice kitchen Bob. Did you get the 120 or 170 door hinges? What kind of drawers did you get? Good luck on finishing. Around our house, once a project reaches functionality, it's next to impossible to finish the rest.

homepro01: Yes, I downloaded the catalog but it's just got component prices so I still had no idea how much a complete cabinet would be. I'm getting ready to send in for an estimate but wanted to pin down some of the options a little more first.

mdod,

I got the 170 deg door hinges everywhere. In retrospect there are several locations where even though the hinge opens to 170 deg, other issues prevent them from opening that wide. (Such as the tall upper cabinets on either side of the cooktop vent hood, or next to the tall oven cabinet.) So for these locations I could have saved a few bucks by getting 120 deg hinges (or maybe even less) but over all I don't think it would have made much of a difference.

On the cabinets where the door can swing wide, I appreciate being to get the open door almost completely out of the way.

For drawers I went with the dovetailed mixed-hardwoods option, unfinished and unassembled. I initially chose the mixed-hardwoods because its slightly greener, and a little bit less expensive, but after seeing them I'm really happy I chose this option. I finished them with a couple coats of spray-on, clear, water-based polyurethane and they are beautiful. I don't have any great picutres of the drawer boxes, but in this other GW posting the middle image shows the side of one of the drawers:

{{!gwi}}

The near side is red oak and soft maple, the far side is poplar, something else (maybe birch) and cherry. Other drawers have white oak, hard maple, walnut, mahogany, and/or hickory.

Also glueing and clamping the dovetailed drawers, sanding the joint smooth, and then spraying on a couple of coats of finish (and sanding lightly between the coats) was a lot more work than I expected. While doing the work several times I wished that I had had Scherr's assemble and finish them for me.

Lastly as the above image shows, I went with the Blum 430e full-extension drawer slides. We are not completly happy with them because the intermediate runner of the slides makes an annoying >clunkGood luck.

Completely custom pantry - 15" deep floor to ceiling, apothecary drawer shelf thing, floating shelf, custom corner base, trash pullout base, sink base with full height doors.

Bemorepanic: Thanks for your pics. That's neat how you combined flat panels and raised panels in your cabinet.

Bob: Thanks for the drawer info and pics. I seen your earlier post about the drawer dividers and kept that in my note. I was wondering what they meant by unassembled/unfinished on the wood drawers. My husband redid a bunch of the drawers in the cabinets at my office and we got lengths of prefinished and routed sides and panels and prefinished bottoms at http://www.hardwoodstore.com/ so we just had to cut and glue them.

The hardwood drawers are pretty but I'm leaning toward the melamine drawers because they are so easy to clean. My current cabinets have cheap particle board drawer sides with what looks like contact paper finish and they're held together with glue and staples but they have held up for 18 yrs so I figured the dovetail wasn't required.

For anyone that's interested Scherrs mixed hardwood drawer, Here's a link from C9pilot

Here is a link that might be useful: