I would say no. I think the square rods send you off in another direction from your original vision. If lighting is truly the hardest thing to find in your town, have you considered looking online? Most lighting stores should be able to order just about anything from the lines they carry. There are SO any choices out there, even HD carries LOTS of lighting! When I renoed our first BR, I actually started with my faucet (Just cuz I got it at HD for a super deal), and then matched EVERYTHING to it! LOL I ordered nearly everything online (and 4 years ago from Canada, not so easy to do). My vanity handles (vanity was custom made to maximize storage- lots of drawers, and pullout shelf under sink) came from Germany, towel bars, paper holder, robe hooks from US, and shower from Great Britain! My light fixture was actually supposed to be a temporary fix (DH hates it), but the one I really wanted was just too expensive, this one came from a local Canadian Tire,(not sure what you have in US that is the equivalent to a Tire and auto store that carries just about everything 'cept groceries!) I looked at the finish, and lines of my faucet, and tried to echo that thin round rod in every other fixture. Probably no one else would notice, but I love it everytime I walk into the BR. DH hates the shades on this fixture...tried to find replacements, but lost interest after a while...once you're no longer in the midst of reno angst, some of the details become not so critical anymore...LOL

I found this on https://www.gsa.gov/portal/content/113602 Removing Linoleum Adhesive From FloorsProcedure code:965001SSource:Ohj - Shirley Maxwell & James C. Massey, 9/30/92Division:FinishesSection:Resilient FlooringLast Modified:08/02/2016 REMOVING LINOLEUM ADHESIVE FROM FLOORS PART 1---GENERAL 1.01 SUMMARY This procedure includes guidance on removing the mastic adhesive left behind when linoleum flooring has been removed. Linoleum flooring was very popular from 1863 to 1974. It was used historically as an original floor treatment in some GSA buildings. Linoleum's chief ingredient was linseed oil, pressed from flax seed, which became a tough, elastic material when exposed to air. The process essentially consisted of mixing linseed oil and gum with ground cork or wood flour, and pressing it onto burlap or canvas. It was then glued down to concrete or wood floors using a mastic cement. See "General Project Guidelines" for general project guidelines to be used along with this procedureThese guidelines cover the following sections: Historic Structures Precautions Submittals Quality Assurance Delivery, Storage and Handling Project/Site Conditions Sequencing and Scheduling General Protection (Surface and Surrounding) These guidelines should be reviewed prior to performing this procedure and should be followed along with recommendations from the Regional Historic Preservation Officer (RHPO). PART 2---PRODUCTS 2.01 MATERIALS Clean, potable water Vinegar Citrus degreasing solvent such as "Limo Sol", or approved equal. Dry ice Chemical solvent such as isopropyl alcohol, paint thinner, xylol, lacquer thinner, or paint stripper. 2.02 EQUIPMENT Heat lamp or hot-air gun Putty knife or scraper PART 3---EXECUTION 3.01 ERECTION, INSTALLATION, APPLICATION NOTE: A waterproof glue is usually applied at the edges and seams of the linoleum; the center of the felt layers is usually attached with a water soluble paste. Soak the mastic area in hot water for 20-60 minutes or until soft.\ If this is not effective, try adding vinegar or high-strength citrus degreasing solvent to the water and then soak for 20-60 minutes until soft. If mastic still will not soften, try applying heat to the surface using a lamp or hot-air gun. -OR- Try freezing the mastic with dry ice to break the bond with the substrate. If no other methods are effective in softening the mastic, test a chemical solvent on the area. NOTE: Be sure to test in an inconspicuous area to determine appropriate chemicals and strengths before proceeding with cleaning. Scrape away the softened mastic using a putty knife or garden edger. END OF SECTION interesting................

Thanks to all for the posts on the brown color. I'm perplexed by DearMrsRobinson's experience with Schlage and Kwikset being brown. I saw those in person at the big box stores, and they looked black to me. I held them out in the aisle, I asked another customer and the employee. We held a black stool next to them. There was almost no difference between the black stool and the handlesets. The employee said that it was probably the lighting in the store, and that in the light, they were more brown. But the bronze porch lights and such in the store, in the same lighting, looked brown. So...I don't know. Maybe the employee was right. Anyway, I got an Emtek handleset. I have bronze-brown lamps and potpourri holders. When I hold the handleset next to them, the handleset is noticeably darker. But it IS brown, most definitely. And now that it's on the door, you can tell it's brown and not black, even from the street, and matches the bronze hinges perfectly. It's a beautiful handleset. with some subtle edges of gold here and there. I'm very happy with it. Got a good price online, too. I went with a curvy lever for the inside. I was nervous about that, since I've never had a lever. I checked with the online vendor, and if I wanted later, I could order a knob for it. But the lever works great! I love it. So easy to open. Thanks to everyone for your recommendations and information. It was so helpful. I'll post a pic soon.

So is lacquer better or worse than polyurethane? I know the guy used lacquer on my cabinets. When we had to refinish one of the old bathroom cabinets he told us what he used. Benjamin Moore said only 2 states carry it, Oklahoma and Texas. That tells me it should NOT be used. It is banned in other states. It sounds like I am ready to sand? I can quit trying to get the glossy parts off where the cracks are. (Where the 2 planks meet.) They will just sand off? I moved the TV cabinet away from the wall. That wall used to have a built in entertainment center with doors and drawers, but my TV was wider, so we removed the entertainment center. We found the original flooring had not been lacquered or polyurethane where the old cabinets had been. We can see that the wood turned more yellow and darker in the rest of the room. The room is huge and includes the kitchen. 42' x 28' plus 12' x 4' hallway. I am sanding around the perimeter first except for the hall and kitchen area. Then I will move the aquarium, couches, and TV cabinet back in place against the walls. They are all sitting on soft sliders so they will not scratch the floor. Then I can sand the rest of the floor. I have no place to move the furniture so it will have to be done in sections. Once the sanding is finished and the floor is clean, I don't know if I can finish the floor in sections. Can that be done? Thanks.