Most integrated appliances are meant to sit flush at 25". Some cabinet companies make their boxes 24" and the finish 25". Others have the finished depth at 24". Therein lies the problem. There are solutions. You can build a recess into the wall--sometimes just making a cutout in the back of the cabinet box can be enough. You can have the front panel cut down to 1/4", unless it's shaker or something where the depth is already cut out.

Dacor is known for having a shallower warming drawer, which is easier to install flush.

With any of them, check the installation specs and bring them to your cabinetmaker or rep and find out if you'll really have a problem.

You can use almost any warming drawer as a slow cooker, or any oven that has a low enough temperature setting. If there's a four hour auto-shutoff, there should also be a Sabbath mode which disables it (though make sure that it doesn't limit the temperature).

Some old slow cookers cooked at 145 degrees, but that's probably too low for food safety. 165 is a good number to shoot for, for vegetables. Choose a number similar to the internal temperature the meat should be, if you're slow cooking that. It's going to take some time to reach that. Remember to boil beans before slow-cooking them. Some slow cookers nowadays start at 200, for a low, which your oven should do. Most warming drawers top out between 210-240. Get a $5 oven thermometer and put it in the drawer to make sure of your temperature setting, and voila, you have a slow cooker. If you have a slow cooker you're replacing, use a thermometer to find out the temperatures of the settings you use.

Or get or make a sous vide cooker. :)

Thanks Plllog for all the info, so you are saying there's a chance it might not even be a problem? Also I will have an overlay raised panel door so hopefully that helps!!

Go to the LA site and get the install instructions. Then carefully check all the dimensions. If you have a KS, they should be doing this.

Many ( most?) cabinets need to have the back deleted at the warming drawer. In many cases that alone is enough, in some it is not. My experience has been that ALL Kitchen Aid appliances are a headache when it comes to fit. DQ stick out, instructions on site for oven below a cooktop don't work, etc. Have not done one of their warming drawers but expect to need to make adjustments.

The only brand of cabinet I know of that does not have 24" deep base cabinets is Aristocraft

This post was edited by jakuvall on Tue, May 6, 14 at 10:20

My cabinets are Jim Bishop! My WD will be in a 3 drawer stack next to stove.

Aristocraft is more or less then 24" deep?

I don't have a KD! But I'm sure my cabinet people can tell me

Aristocrat is less

On the wolf one that I have we ended up making the panel 5/8" thick to sit flushâ¦if I remember correctly the flange of the warming drawer sits on the edge of the cabinet box and takes up approx 1/8", so by using a 5/8 panel the face was perfectly flush with the surrounding panelsâ¦.

And we had to remove the back of the cabinet to gain the extra space required, not a huge deal at all

So the Jim Bishop cabinets are 24" depth. This is the specs for KA WD I see the 24" cut out but I'm not sure what the other number means?

Aristocraft are 23 3/4
KA doesn't tell you how far out the panel will come, which is consistent with them.
Be prepared to do some site work, have a couple of fillers to use on the end of run so you can pull the base cabinets. You can also cut out the back of the cabinet at the drawer opening, reinforce it in the field. Can also recess the sheet rock. Some people simply remove it but that is a fire code violation- needs to have a full sheet rock face to wall to meet code- bit of a PIA.

Yes, your cabinets are nominally 24". But is that from the wall to the front of the box? To the front of the door? From the back of the box to the front of the box? To the door? As measured from the outside? From the inside?

Talk to your rep. See if you can get a schematic. Even better if they have sample boxes you can measure. Use a really accurate tape, not the kind that can stretch or is too cheap, and use the same one to measure a sample of the appliance. Then talk to an installer.

Standard base cabinet box, is ALWAYs measured from front of cabinet box to back of the box-the outside dimension-excluding doors. - be it framed or frameless, overlay or inset- Of the 30 brands I've sold and the other dozen or so I've considered all were 24",no exception, no variance...
... except Aristocraft which was 1/4" less when I sold it some 5 years ago. They could have changed since and of course there are a good few hundred cabinets out there and it is possible there is another oddity among them.

Wall cabinet vary, and interior depth varies depending on construction but we don't layout kitchens using the interior dimension and then adding to it.