Curvy or straight? The main point is to give beds depth. Rule of thumb for a border or foundation would be a minimum depth of 6 ft, but most look better if deeper than that. Narrow beds and borders, I think, are one of the things that leads some people to plant in the dreaded soldier rows. Also, although I sometimes think some people get a little anal about the "rule", it's kind of a common mantra in gardening books and on garden forums to hear that plant material should be planted in odd numbers. Three is the favorite number. For smaller plants, or for greater impact, try 5 or 7. If a plant has presence enough to be a specimen or accent on its own, then plant just one. Consider that most dwarf shrubs are about 2 ft at maturity. You need to keep an access space along the house, so you don't plant them write up against it. And, you just read this rule of 3 thing, so you have 3 little shrubs that you won't plant in a row. How much depth will your irregular planting of a trio of the same shrub or perennial need? Then you figure that ... hmmm ... a 2 ft shrub doesn't have a lot of presence by itself. What if it were to have a grouping of evergreens here ... and, say, here ... Oh, and the evergreens are something slow growing that will eventually reach 4 to 5 ft. Pretty soon you realize the border depth needs to be 8 ft to accommodate the shrub groupings. And, because I think it's how many of us think, I'm starting from smaller plants and working from there. Of course, the other common scenario is trying to plant something that matures at 6 to 10 ft with a similar spread into a bed that isn't deep enough. So, my recommendation would be that you get a working idea of the shape and especially the depth of the beds. Incorporate the raised bed idea if you like ... But for now, just play with the ideas on paper, keeping foremost in your mind the way these beds will enhance your home. Once you've got a paper plan that you like, you don't necessarily have to pull the whole thing off all at once. You have a plan. Execute it slowly. Given that you are trying to learn design and learn plants and "do" the garden all at once, give yourself permission to work at a reasonable pace. Maybe the shadier side first, and focus next year on the sunnier side. Give strong consideration to checking out if a local nursery provides design services. Often you can pay a reasonable fee (about $300) for a reasonable plan. If they seem to be going in a too cookie cutter direction, call them on it and indicate the preferences you are already developing. Mainly what you want is something to guide your process. And, there are designers out there who work specifically with clients who intend to put the plan in place themselves. Anyway, whether you sketch it out entirely yourself or get professional input, once you've got a plan, implement it in stages. Don't do what I've done ... rush out to look at all the pretty plants and come home with babies that need to go into the ground ... now! Give your future plantlings the courtesy of beautifully prepared beds with wonderfully prepped soil. You won't regret it. Focus on getting a particular section of the project done well. Maybe it won't look finished, but you have a plan and you know what you will be doing next to fulfill it. Hope that makes sense ... It's just often the case that we get an idea, and think we can execute it and then it turns out to be way more work than we realized when we were just playing with it on paper. Get the big picture on paper ... But, if you are doing the work, stage the execution in manageable phases.

ANTSS - The units have already been professionally installed with the appropriate side by side kit. And, yes, the installer attended a Thermador class on how to do so. And the cabinet maker, designer, and installer have spent much time discussing the eventual installation of the door panels (which is what remains to be done). Unfortunately, I have one of the first sets of the units in the Twin Cities, so noone has ANY first hand experience. There are no units on display with cabinet fronts anywhere in Minnesota and we are all grasping for every bit of info we can find to get to the best end product. And as I mentioned in my first note - the guide, which we have all read and reread, is not very detailed on the cabinet fronts other than how to attach them. That's why I decided to reach out to those who have already gone down this path, and glean any insights they might have. I'm not a novice trying to do this myself - it's just that even my professionals are a bit leary about moving forward.... and they keep trying to shift the ownership back on me. Thus, here I am.... asking for lessons learned during other's installs to help this process along. Have you installed any Antss? I think I've gathered from prenious notes on this forum that you sell appliances, correct? Have you seen any installs that look topnotch? Did they do overlay or inset? Did you see trim around the edges if it was inset? Thanks for your help. Deb

I lean towards the brushed stainless/satin nickel myself but take a look around your kitchen and any other adjoining rooms and see what other metals dominate in your fixtures and furniture. Choose something that would mix well...not necessarily match but would play well with the others. I personally don't think your doorknobs have to match your lights and faucets and door hinges.

Thing to do is leave the cabinet doors alone . Paint the frame or carcass black or white and retrofit fronts for drawers only : as you are in the midst of......paint drawer fronts same as framing. The age of this means you probably only have drawers across top. Repair and clean all the DOORS , leaving the wood. You are getting a bit more life ...but watch your costs.. Get some interesting older style chrome knobs and relish a bit of vintage vibe. Leave the wood doors to glow and enjoy . it will all get replaced eventually.