Because disconnection of power to the cooktop may require disconnection of this cable (unless the breaker box has or supports lock-out means or is in view of the cooktop), it is better to use tap type connectors (see link for one example) in the box where this cable terminates instead of, say, large wire nuts, such as the pale blue size. The box has to be big enough to fit the tap connectors, as well as handling the bend radius limits and volume that apply to number six conductors in boxes. Alternatively, taped up u-bolt connectors can be used. In both cases, the crimp on the cable keeps the strands from wandering about and potentially not contributing to the current path. If stranded number six conductors are used on the supply side, similar crimp sleeves should be used for tap connectors and u-bolts. MSC Direct is one source of crimp sleeves. kas Here is a link that might be useful: Greaves Corp PBS2 for example, page 56

Most of your questions are answered in the owner's manual. To run off a cold water supply, you'll need a Y adapter, like this one, with standard (preferably braided burst-resistant) washing machine hoses attached from the Y adapter to the two inlets on the washer. Alternatively, you can get a Y adapter with short hoses already attached, though I'd like it better if they included burst-resistant hoses. There may be some that do, I haven't checked. Cold water prevents some types of stains from "setting" that may become permanent if immediately doused with hot water. But cold water doesn't clean very well, and some other types of stains will only come loose in warm or hot water, including stubborn shirt-collar discoloring. So the best way to make sure anything gets as clean and stain-free as possible is to fill the washer with cold water and detergent, and heat up the water as it washes to a relatively high temperature. 240v front-load washers are uniquely well suited for this, as they use only a small amount of water at a time, and have 2500-watt internal heaters that quickly bring cold water to high temperatures. And Miele made it very easy to know what temperature that is - no vague "warm" or "hot" labelling, much less "work clothes" or "bedding and blankets" or other descriptions that don't leave a clue as to what the machine will do with your clothes. On your Meile, set the dial to "120F" and your clothes will be washed at said temperature. Want something else? The dial adjusts from 85F to an on-the-verge-of-boiling 205F. And thanks to that 240v internal heater, it will reach your selected temperature quickly. Starting with cold water rather than mixed hot/cold will slow things down only slightly, maybe a few minutes. On 120v/15a washers with internal heaters, heating water is *slow* since there's only about 1000 watts allocated to the water heater. But with 240v/15a power, about 2500 watts are available for heating, which means it warms up fast and doesn't add much time if the water starts cold instead of lukewarm, as it would with a 120v washer. Your electrician is confused because the big NEMA 14-30P plugs and matching 14-30R recepticles are normally used with 208 or 240V/30 amp equipment, but the Miele washer and dryer, though equipped with "30 amp" plugs, each only draw less than 15 amps and are designed to be protected by a 240v/15a circuit breaker, not 240/30a. Show your electriction p.37 in the manual for a more detailed explanation. Note also the electrical requirements shown on placard on the machine itself, either the inner door frame or back panel near where the water and electrical connections are made. So yes, despite the 30A plug, both Miele machines are 240 volt/15 amp devices and each machine should be connected to a 240 volt/15 amp circuit with a 15 amp circuit breaker protecting it. There's no need for the Miele adapter box if you have room for two double-pole 15A breakers (the kind that take up two adjacent slots) in your electrical panel. I have a Miele W1926 which is a larger version of the 1918 (about 4" deeper inside and out) with the same requirements. It's a great machine. I can't help much with the dryer issues as I've never had a Miele dryer.

This setup sounds like you're just feeding the generator into the main panel and there is no transfer switch and separate box allowing your generator to power selective outlets. Not any different from a former neighbour of mine who just plugs his generator into a garage outlet and is convinced it's fine, though the lights are all dim and he's backfeeding the incoming power lines. Perfect for electrocuting linesmen and damaging your appliances. Was the install done by a licenced electrician? Depending on your jurisdiction, you may be able to get a free inspection from your local power supplier.

Additional details on my switch The switch is a Leviton T5225. The cord I am using has a grounded plug, with the green wire leading to the ground plug, and the black and white wires going to the other two blades on the plug. Looking at the front of the plug, black wire goes to the the screw on the left side at the switch side switch end. The white wire goes to the screw on the right side at the plug end. The green wire goes to the ground on at the switch end that is green. As I said when I tested it with a 40 watt bulb, it blew the Ground Fault interrupter on the circuit. The cord is new and has been used before. The light bulb was in a light I use a flexible unit I use on the work bench. Leviton 5225-W