The picture gets fuzzier and fuzzier without any pictures to accompany the meandering tale. Let me direct you to a recent thread (click link at bottom of this post) in which the form and function of the Briggs V Twin ignition kill circuits is discussed at great length. This thread was opened and finished before you signed up as a member. You will not read it all. I just know that. Now to try and address the ***" 3 things I want to know."*** 1...***"first is the battery charging i.e. amp meter"*** RESPONSE... I don't know because you don't give any description of what that ammeter is doing. But from the rest of your posts I would have to suspect it might probably not be charging. If the charging system is working, and the ammeter is even wired up correctly............the indicator needle should move to the PLUS side of the gauge face for at least a few minutes AFTER you start the engine (engine must be near full governed RPM for charging). 2...***" second is the oil sensing light working indicating low oil"*** RESPONSE... NO, it is not an indicator of low oil. It is an indicator of LOW OIL PRESSURE. The only reasonable and reliable indicator of low oil is the manual oil level gauge, also known as the OIL DIPSTICK. (do not confuse it with other types of "dipsticks"). The only way to guard against engine failure (due to low oil level) is to check the oil level by following the instructions in the owner's manual. The oil level should be checked each and every time BEFORE THE ENGINE IS USED. This means prior to using it and between use cycles if you must stop and refill the fuel tank. In lieu of following the instructions in the OM to determine if the oil level is sufficient, there are 2 alternate methods (signs) for "guessing" that the oil level might be low. A. You notice a piston connecting rod protruding from a new hole in the engine block. B. Engine refuses to rotate even when a 6' breaker bar with socket wrench is used on the flywheel nut. 3...***" Lastly shutting down in an emergency grounding the coils to each other."*** RESPONSE... I don't understand your use of the term "emergency". Try to read through the thread found by clicking the link I provided and it might "click" for you about how the 2 coils are separated from each other, and how they are connected to a COMMON GROUND for routinely shutting down the engine. Now get to work on posting pictures on here. :^) Here is a link that might be useful: Curiouser and curiouser

Sorry to barge in ... but a light went off in my head (new wiring) in that maybe you could help answer a question for me .... I have a home that was suposedly built 1965. The wiring is atrocious - in that the way it's routed. Anyway, most of my receptacles outlets only support two prong plugs. Some outlets have been replace by prev owner for three, but there is no updated wires - so the job was just to *accommodate* 3 pronged plugs. When I replaced several lighting fixtures, I found that there wiring is coated with black cloth-like insulation - which is in okay condition - not new, not falling apart. I've been told that this type of wiring is not typical for a 1960's house and that the house is probably much older. (This was also mentioned because of some characteristics in the construction.) Would you agree that the wiring would have been used in much earlier home-building? I am slowly updating most of the wiring - espcially for kitchen appliances! TIA for any help.

1.Get a not contact votage tester. You just place it beside the wire and it beeps for power. Leave the groudn. You don't have any place to connect it. You should install a box to mount the fixture. 2. The new fixture probably has a warning to use it only on 90ºC wiring. If it does you should not use it. The wiring is not 90ºC. 3. You should not be using CFL on a dimmer. They are not designed for that. 4. It is the dimmer. They are not meant for CFL bulbs.

You mix "adding" and "replace" in a way that is confusing. You can NOT install countertop receptacles on a circuit that also feeds lighting. Now if your home was old, this wiring is probably grandfathered, but if you are adding a new receptacle you should do it correctly. How did you determine the ground wire was hot? I actually suspect it is floating which is nearly as bad. All the signs indicate that. I suspect you're using a high impedance meter (good for most things, but it will read stray voltages with one leg connected to a grounded conductor and the other either floating or connected to a long unterminated wire). A lot of fluorescent fixtures start intermittently without proper grounds. I bet you reach up and touch the fixture or rub the bulb with your hand, the other ones would fire. I would find all the outlets (lights, receptacles) and any junctions (especially those between the breaker panel) and inspect for more undone or loose connections.