Petey may be a bit cranky here because we DO get a fair number of people here who want us to bless their code violations as some kind of special case for which an exception is justified. There are a few regulars here who sometimes do that where it makes sense and where there is reasonable precedent - just check out this thread. However, I agree with Petey that this isn't such a case. The code is clear-cut and rational on this point. It shouldn't be a significant burden to comply. In Jeremy's case it just means a little more fishing. To me this is, if nothing else, a matter of good workmanship and pride. Some of the code requirements for ranges were relaxed during the second world war when saving copper was a national priority. That's why the code allowed only 3 conductors instead of 4 for ranges. However, that rule persisted for 50 years after the war! Finally somebody noticed. ;-) I do recall seeing the NEC allowance for connecting both a cooktop and a wall oven to a 50 amp circuit, instead of having separate circuits for them, but I don't remember that the code allowed a smaller tap for each. I could be remembering wrong though, and I don't have the code here to check. But in any case I'd suspect that this ruling was originally another copper-saving measure - which is now no longer really needed. (I know, copper's scarce and pricey right now, but we have aluminum instead. ;-) I don't mean to suggest that I speak for Petey here; he can certainly speak for himself. Nor do I mean to impugn Jeremy's motives. I'm just explaining why some of us (including myself at times) now and then get annoyed with posters who come here for advice (which, I remind you, is free ;-), and then get sore and complain when they don't get the answers they had hoped for. After a while maybe some of us can get a little touchy about this, that's all.

On tippy toes I can't reach all of the breaker switches on the panel, darn. Have to admit I had also put one of the laundry baskets on top of the freezer, so an extra impediment, albeit removeable. But we could put a stepstool under the laundry sink nearby (just to the right of the washer). At least we don't have chewing pets! Before this, we've always had some narrow-ish steel shelving under the breaker panel... also had laundry baskets on top of that & they had to be removed to get at the panel. Finally found specs on label inside the door of the washer: 12 amps, 120 volts, 60 Hz. So if the freezer happened to be 5 amps, then total is 17 amps and surpasses 15 amps of the extension cord?? Anyway for now the extension cord in question has been seconded for a new use: for a 3-tiered fluoro plant growing setup (Floralight I think; originally from Lee Valley) that I got second hand; now can transplant my 'maters! That is in another room & extension cord was needed since each of the 3 fluoro lights has its own cord/prongs. Had to take up the whole outlet receptacle in that spot because of that downward orientation of the cord out of the prong part... would be stressed by location of the recepacle to put it in the bottom outlet because it runs into "sitting" area of fireplace jutting out from the wall just under the outlet. But I digress... Except that now to plug in the freezer, if indeed it stays where it is (& I can't think of another place where it will fit... can't fit it beside the box or it'd block the dryer), we'd need to buy another extension cord... so then if we did go ahead, would a 20 amp one be better as per rtscoach's post early on? I guess I still have to "find out what is on the circuit"... if only 15 amps then would a 20 amp cord be too much?? Boy this would be a good time if I had time to "study up" on general electricity/wiring info, but I wouldn't trust my own studying on this!

Thanks. That makes sense. I did notice a typo in my earlier message. The 240v is only a L14-20p while the 120 is a 30 amp connector. That is what had me wondering if it was carrying full load. Why the lower amps on the 240 connector? Fortunately I do not have too much need for power and utility service is very reliable where I live. Most of my lighting has been switched over to LED. Likewise, I have gas heat, stove, etc. for me it is mostly about keeping the lights and refrigerator on and the forced air for furnace. I do not expect this unit to be able to power the central AC. I had initially been looking at bigger units but got too good a deal on this to pass up. Almost wound up with a large natural gas genset but then discovered I would need to upgrade my gas service and it was all getting to be way too much cost and hassle for a few hours use every few years.

A little info on HACR ratings and inverse time circuit breakers; http://static.schneider-electric.us/docs/Circuit%20Protection/Molded%20Case%20Circuit%20Breakers/0600DB0102.pdf . https://www.schneider-electric.us/documents/support/codes-and-standards/circuit-breaker-markings-iaei.pdf . The 20 amp breaker should be fine. The problem most people have is with the lights dimming when the motor kicks in. That is caused by voltage drop, which is caused by too much amperage going through too small of a wire. 10 gauge wire can help this, but other factors may also effect this.