There is an easy way. It's very simple, although it may sound complicated at first. I'll give you an example using some assumed measurements for your situation, and you can adjust to what you actually have. You will need a facing board whose width is just a little more than the greatest distance between the bottom of the beam and the ceiling, at whatever point that occurs. Let's say that the distance from the bottom of the beam to the ceiling is 6" at its greatest point (presumably one of the ends). Mark a distance on your board of, say, 6-1/4" from its bottom edge (so that, when you are done cutting, the facing board will give you some wiggle room by hanging down about 1/4" below the bottom of the beam). Then put the board in place so it butts up against the low center point, plumb it horizontal with your level, and fix it in place (2 nails?). Then, get out a drafting compass (you know, those things you use to draw circles on paper). Set the distance between the points of the compass to the distance between the ceiling and the pencil mark you made. In the next step, make sure that the distance you set the compass points to doesn't change as you are working with it. Then, simply run the compass point along the ceiling and the pencil point along the board, from one end to the other. The pencil will mark a line on the board that exactly conforms to any deviations in the ceiling. Take the board down, cut along the marked line with a saber saw, and you're ready to put it in place. If you've been able to follow my instructions, you will have a board that conforms to the irregular ceiling and hangs down about 1/4" lower than the beam at all points. Do the same thing for the other side of the beam. Then nail a third piece across the bottom and it's a wrap! If you have any slight gaps when you're done at the ceiling line, you can put a small piece of trim in place that will hide them. Hope that's clear. The link below (illustration 5) shows how to use a compass to scribe an irregular surface in a different application, but, hopefully, this may help your understanding of the technique. Let me know if you need anything clarified. Here is a link that might be useful: Scribing with a compass

Hi Joe, Yes, it was very serious. So serious that I've been living in a hotel for the past four months while the house is being almost completely restored, unfortunately. We were out of town when it happened. Something in the old boiler exploded and the pressure it created exploded most of the radiators and cracked all the others. Literally huge chunks of these solid brass radiators flew off like shrapnel. (We found pieces scattered up to 20 feet away!) It's a good thing no one was home. Since it was winter in MN when it happened, of course, no heat = frozen water pipes, which subsequently all burst. My neighbors called the police on New Years Day when they saw water pouring out of my kitchen window. The fireman said they think that water must have been pouring into the house for at least 4 or 5 days. The whole basement, kitchen and dining room were ruined. It has been a long road, complete with horrible dishonest contractors, insurance fiascos, incompetent plumbers, you name it. It's almost over thank goodness. We've just got the floors left to do and the kitchen remaining. Here are a few pictures of the radiators. I've got tons more pictures of the disaster--ceilings caving in, etc. It's been a little nightmare. The worst part about it has been trying to get the contractor to understand that this is an OLD home and that we are dedicated to preserving the OLD HOME quality, craftsmanship and style. The first time they installed the new radiators, they attached them with flimsy 1/2" copper tubing coming up out of the floor! You can just imagine how stupid and industrial that looked. They also wanted to have the plumbers Sawzall the hardwood floors upstairs to get to piping that was easily accessible through the downstairs ceilings. No way. Then they tried to replace our molding with flimsy plastic 2" Home Depot-type trim -- Hello???? Of course, we've made them redo everything they've done wrong--all because insurance didn't want to hire the contractors who specialize in period homes because the good guys were more expensive... Now they've just paid these contractors more to do everything twice. Go figure. We are NOT letting these guys do our kitchen or basement--we finally succeeded in firing them. (Sorry for the soapbox, but thanks for asking! It's nice to vent sometimes.) Here is a link that might be useful: House Disaster

On the doors, I would put one of those straight, wroght-iron or pewter rods at the top and bottom with the gauzy privacy curtains that kind of bunch up. (very technical description, I know) What's nice is that they let light in quite a bit, but it's hard for anyone outside to see in. I think they're about as "period" as I can think of. No clue for the window--we have lots of very thick dark moulding, so I think I'm going to opt for linen colored roman shades that attach on the inside of the window--but you're not limited to anything at all. Good luck--looks great!! Sarah from NY

Greetings from the lush Pacific NW, Seattle, Washington! Congratulations on your darling new home. What a find!!! I too, tend to agree this is a late Victorian, rather than an Edwardian or even later, a 1920's residence. This is not a four-square as they appear here in Seattle. Architecturally, the four-square has perfect symetry, which the subject home does not. It features a "turret" sort of structure which then offers lovely bay window sort of enclave. To be envied indeed! The give-away as to the style of architecture additionally, is the fireplace. Many of the 1920's homes have that traditional "Tudor" or pointy-topped fireplace surround. Some even have niches for objects of art. The subject home has far more fussy details than the stripped down Arts & Crafts style, favored in the early 1900's. Yes, I too would go hunting for Victorian furniture in rich mahogany. Even Eastlake furniture would be great. Personally, 1920's style furniture (which I have in a portion of my own home) tends to be very straight-lined. One sees the beginnings of the Art Deco Age. My display cabinet has sloped outward angles and has a lovely wood panel/fret work sort of thing as the door. Compared to Victorian, the wood of the 20's furniture I have found to be lighter in tone, often fruit wood too, compared to mahogany. In my spare time, I am a historical costumer here in Seattle. My husband (Sir Harry of Essex) and I have appeared in historical documentaries filmed here as well. If you are a Facebook fan, feel free to find me as: Lady Victoria Seattle. I also moderate on FB and on the Yahoo Groups: Victorian Revival which discuss furnishings, table settings, Victorian-inspired lifestyle, etc. Great fun for those of us kinda "stuck back there", unwilling to wear 21st century clothing all the time! (wink) Please post photos of your efforts in decorating! I'm sure all of us out here would love to see your lastest "find" from garage sale or thrift store. Also feel free to post images to the Victorian Revival site as I can assure you folks will love to see photos there too. Wishing you much joy, health, prosperity, and time to enjoy all three in your new home.... Lady Victoria of Essex Here is a link that might be useful: Facebook: Victorian Revival