MTD makes these mowers, and they have been branded under the names of Craftsman, Troy-Bilt, White, Cub Cadet and MTD. I am on my second Troy-Bilt version. My first one came with an 8 hp Briggs, my current one came with a 9 hp Briggs. Both of the engines on my mowers had carb related problems from day one. I ended up replacing the 9 hp Briggs with a 13 hp Honda engine three years ago. The Honda engine is quieter, smoother and uses less fuel even though it puts out more power! I've gone through two sets of mower spindles and one needs replaced again, mine do not have grease zerks. A deck wash is the last thing you want to have on these mowers, as the spindles do not hold up. The transmission gave up all but one gear last year. Luckily it still has third gear, which is what I normally use anyway. The bolts that attach the handles together near the top broke off on both of my mowers. I replaced the four bolts on both mowers with 1/4 x ? grade eight bolts. They never broke again. The Troy-Bilt I currently have mulches great, I have heard the blades have been redesigned. All in all these are good mowers, they need a better engine than a Briggs, and they certainly are not commercial duty mowers. For the average homeowner they should last quite a while as long as the engine holds up. Bob

My work shop shares my garage with two vehicles and a boat. I have a 1968 sears table saw 113 2990301. It has a 10" blade, a dado blade, and a cast iron table. It also has the side wings that was offered by sears when it was purchased. Depending on the position of the side wings I can cut a 48" plywood. I use it for general around the house cutting projects, and make a lot of picture frams with mitered corners and rabbits for the picture. I would not trade it for some of the cheap stuff they are selling to day. It is on a base with wheels, and is complemented by my work bench which is also on wheels and is the same height as the saw. I can move it so it works as set up table for the saw, or reposition it for an out feed table. I have ripped 10' board by my self with the set up. My primary use is making mitered corners on picture frames. I have used it to make some minor furniture, and trim projects in the house. Your concerns seems to be price therefore I would look for one of these saws. They can be found on Ebay for a couple of hundred. You may want to spend another couple of hundred for a good blade, dado bladed, miter gauge, etc. I have a solid 45 miter guage that I use for miter corners for the picture frame. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/sears-table-saw Since this basic table saw was sold by Sears for many years parts are available both from places like Ebay and Sears parts store. My dad's table saw nearly identical to my 1969 saw was from the early 1950's PS: when I wrote the above I did not realize that the original post was 10 years old. I don't know why it appeared as a post with new replies.

A regular miter saw only moves up and down at a 90 degree angle to your wood. You can pivot the blade left to right (allowing yourself to make cuts that are across the wood at any angle -- so the ends of your wood piece can be triangle shaped, not just square across) but you can't tilt the blade side to side -- your cuts are always straight down through the wood. A compound miter saw lets you tilt the blade itself so that instead of cutting at a 90 degree angle through the wood, you can cut any angle. This lets you make, for example, 45 degree bevel cuts through the short side of the wood. It also lets you make the complex angled cuts you need to do crown molding. A sliding compound miter saw does everything a regular compound miter saw does, but also the blade can slide back and forth, which lets you cut larger pieces of wood. We just upgraded from our 10" compound miter saw (purchased at Lowes on black friday for $99 about 10 years ago) to a 12" sliding compound miter saw that can cut up to 16" wide pieces of wood. We did this mainly because I wanted to make a shelf that was 13-14" deep and I didn't want to have to deal with the table saw to make the cuts (plus we got a great open box deal on the demo model at Costco!) If you are just making picture frames and regular board and batten type molding cuts, a regular miter saw will do you just fine. To do crown molding or cuts that are angled throught the depth of the wood, you will need a compound miter saw. And to do any piece of wood wider than 8-10", you will need a sliding compound miter saw. HTH! Oh, and I will say that we are tricked out for power tools thanks to parents who buy my dh a new toold for every holiday. And the one we use the most, by far, is the miter saw (well, excluding the drill, which I don't really count as a "power tool).

Here's a couple pictures of the faucet. You can see the hot/cold levers on the left and right side of the faucet. The lever in the center is how you choose between the faucet and the sprayer. When it is vertical, it sends water to the faucet and to use the sprayer you turn it 90 degrees to the left. If you look at the picture of the sprayer, there is a metal ring that you can slide over the handle to keep it depressed and be "hands free." We never use it. Also, the spray comes out in a fan shape which works great for spraying stuff off. It really doesn't flow that much water when you use the sprayer and I like that. However, the faucet puts out a really good flow - which is nice when filling pots. The sink is a Whitehaus WH3018 and is 30" wide by 18" to the back by 10" deep. We really like having one large sink instead of the traditional two. We also purchased the metal grate that goes in the bottom and had to purchase the drain fittings specific to this sink as well (we don't have a garbage disposal but it was an option). We bought it from bluebath.com but it is available many other places. I can't remember where we bought the sprayer from - I think I just kept Googling the model number and went with the best price I could find. As far as cleaning the faucet goes, we just use Clorox wipes. It has some nooks and crannies that take a little work to clean out but it's not too bad at all. The "spring" part at the base of the hose slides up and down so cleaning it is easy (though it really doesn't get that dirty). Again, I highly recommend both the sink and the faucet. Have had no issues with either. I looked around at some of the quasi-commercial faucets from some of the big-name manufacturers and they were way too expensive. I don't know what these faucets cost today but I don't think we spent more than about $300 or so. But it should last us FOREVER.