Naomi, not sure what kind of pictures you want but I trust this may answer some questions you may have and if not, just ask some more questions. This is Echeveria imbricata, one of a couple I have that is in desperate need of a whack job! It should have been pruned last fall but.... well, no need to go there! The several arms and head are becoming etiolated from insufficient sun and short days of winter here in Michigan. There are the usual accumulation of dead brown leaves which need to be removed. Whether you have a single stem or multiple stems as in this case, the procedure is simple and the same. Use a pruning shear or some cutting device with substance so you make a clean cut without crushing the stem. Leave yourself enough stem on the cutting to plant after you have allowed it to callous in a shaded area. Remove any dead leaves and any that might be yellowing because they don't offer anything to the plant and will have to be removed anyway. I will allow the larger cutting to the right to callous for at least a week while the smaller ones possibly less time; for the most part whether it is 4 days or 8 days, it isn't life threatening! When you are ready to plant, select a mix that works for you in your area and growing conditions. DO NOT place it in sun afer planting; light shade or filtered light works until new growth begins. DO NOT SOAK the mix after planting. A bit of moisture is OK but most people wait until there is new growth. Echeveria can wimp out, if kept too dry. As I said, these are general thoughts and should work for most, not all, succulents. Another example is this Euphorbia decaryii v decaryii that I cut yesterday. I will allow it to callous for a week to 10 days before planting and I will have 3 new plants that should send out new rhizomes later this summer.

I can't help you with the name, but it looks neat. If you get any seeds out of it I'll be interested in some. It will probably be a bit different next year depending on what crossed with it.

1. is too far away to id. for certain. Possibly Spiraea arguta clipped so it hasn't flowered. 2. is a Fuchsia - not necessarily a winter hardy one. 3. is Buddleja - quite likely a self sown one that someone has attempted to cut down. 4. Sorbus cultivar possibly S aucuparia 'Chinese Lace'. 5. Philadelphus or Deutzia - new growth is tricky to distinguish. Erring on the side of Philadelphus. 6. Potentilla fruticosa (see above for the latest name change but still widely referred to as Potentialla.) 7. Campanula portenschlagiana, a very common self sower. 8. Aucuba japonica All are run of the mill except the Sorbus. If you cadged that one you got a bargain.

I've been avoiding responding in an effort to not compromise myself :), but as you've received no response, here goes: A permanent solution is going to need a lot more information and, honestly, some considerable commitment on your part. Including ID of the problem through performing a soil test and jar test, photographs and answering a lot of questions from people on this site. To the "quick and dirty": If your concern is limited to getting some grass coverage for June, the fastest and easiest remedy (pretty much fool proof) is to use Scotts EZ seed. $50 will cover about 450 sq ft of soil. Select a product with rye and fescue rather than KBG. Just follow the directions to a "T" and you should have decent coverage by June. Keep in mind this is just a "fast and dirty" solution to get grass coverage for June. It is VERY unlikely survive through August. It probably wont match your existing lawn, but it will be grass and green.