Babka: ha. they (fixtures) are vented to the space above, (which is under the stairs), not to the outside - which is against the code, I know that much. I guess they (whoever added this bath) ran into the same problem with venting fixtures as we are facing trying to figure how to vent the exhaust fan. and maybe that's why there is no exhaust fan to start with. The bathroom is under the staircase whichi s in the middle of the house, and there is space directly above it because the ceiling is short. But then the ceiling height changes as you go to any neighboring room (the rest of the house around has much higher ceilings). Basically, you can put the duct vertically through the ceiling above the bathroom, but then as you turn it 90 degrees towards in the direction of any outside wall, it would have to come out through the wall of any room around, not in the ceiling above the rooms. And if you try to go higher with the duct so that the turn is at the level of the over-the-ceiling space for these rooms, then the duct would have to come out through the staircase! Hard to explain, but I hope you go the picture. Also, even if we could somehow get the duct to the space over the ceiling of any adjacent wall, then we still can't open up that high ceiling to run the duct further because it has some fancy beams and moldings (house is over 100years old) so we cannot touch the ceiling. That's why I wrote "absolutely no way" for the ceiling route Unless, as somebody above suggested, we place the fan in the ceiling, but run the duct through the wall down to under the house (actually through the under-the-stailrcase part as the stairs go down). But as far as I understand that comment, we will have to install some inline fans in the duct to keep the air moving down...

haus proud, fwiw i'll tell you a couple tidbits about heat. 1. the sensation of comfort / discomfort is mostly from the distribution of heat, and it sounds like you have a cold floor and lukewarm air. ----- So a kettle of the kind that always keeps its water at 210 Fahrenheit, plugged in and left on the floor, would distribute the right kind of warmth that is needed in your bathroom. You could even cover it a bit to remove it from sight a bit and to concentrate its heat in the floor-wall junction. This is a low low low cost and effective solution, which you can store in a cupboard for nine or ten months of the year. Any warm object that turns the coldest spot into a Source not a Sink. A Heat Source. Even something as innocuous as a heated aquarium is a heat source. 2. all other means of adding heat now wil produce heat where you "don't need it" . What you need now are warmer ankles and a warmer floor. Baseboards will warm air which then rises immediately. Fans or forced air are great for large open spaces and immediate change in sensation when you are fully clothed, but won't warm up objects (walls and floors) that are losing heat to the great outdoors at a high rate. Then you will have a large differential between the coldest and the warmest parts of the room. 3. the coldest part of a room determines your subjective feeling of cold. You must heat that corner (or wall-floor junction) and only that spot. 4. the differential between the coldest part of a room and the rest of the room's warmth is always perceived in your subconscious (or in your conscious brain if you have enough experience), so you must heat only the coldest corner and nothing else. The greater the differential temperature, the more "slope" you are standing on between the warm and cold parts of the room. This is uncomfortable. 5. A body can sense a heat source. When you walk past any wall you can sense the warmth coming from inside at various points -- after some training. Infrared instruments can help you initially. 6. Eventually, consider over-insulating that coldest corner starting with injecting Great Stuff from the outside. david

ML, I have had no experience whatsoever with subways. I read about them being traditional, but have never seen them in anything but a modern setting in person, unless they were in an actual subway. That may be because I have only ever been in 1950s and newer houses with tile! To me they feel modern and very "in" and overused. I figured they have to go "out" sooner or later! However, I do respect your opinion. I thank you for your insight. I had not thought of whether the 6x6 effect looked MCM or not. The sink definitely has a pre-MCM vibe, as do the med cabinets. I suppose the lights do, too. And the dresser is definitely older. So square tiles came along in the MCM era, huh? Bummer. I avoided 4x4 tiles because that is what my 1978 home already has, I thought that by going bigger, I would avoid the era. Phooey. So I need to do subways to be in a 1940s and earlier vibe? Okay. Is the 4 x 6 you suggested more period than the 3 x 6 that are so easy to find everywhere now? BTW, as time passes, I am more and more inclined to go with the Carrara-looking trim, rather than the black. Then there is a part of me that says that I like color too much and that it is just hanging out on-line that has gotten me loving the Carrara look (because it is so loved on the kitchen forum and bath forum). I also am drooling over a mother-of-pearl tile to use as a listello between two rows of Carrara. Then again, if a beauteous tile becomes available for a great price on Craigslist, all bets are off on color! I am considering heating the floor. It will also help it to dry if it gets wet splash-over from the shower. Things like Carrara-looking tile and heated floors became more of an option when my SSDI came through. The Swanstone ADA floor with the trench drain is so new that I have not found a picture of a real consumer using it. The link below will take you to a PDF that shows the new shower floor and wall system. The shower floor is on the cover, but it does not show the whole shower. I will be getting the New Construction floor because we have to pull up the subfloor due to rot. I will get the 96" walls seen on the right on page 8/9, but in the color "Ice" or "Glacier". "Ice" is shown below, it is the closest they have to Carrara. "Glacier" is just white, but the surface looks like snowflakes, sort of. The shower looks way too skinny, but I keep telling myself that the shower looks skinny because of the drain taking some of the floorspace. It will be the same size as the bathtub, without the bathtub sides getting in the way of my feet. I keep saying that, but it sure looks skinny! That is why the floor outside the shower will be as water-proof as a shower would be. Here is a link that might be useful: Swan Shower PDF see Page 8/9

That rug looks perfect. Brings in the cream from the tile on the counter, the floor tile colors and your towels. The soap dispenser and bath mat are great touches too.