Masonry Straps would be a good way to do it. I order my windows for these type of applications 1/4" smaller in width & height of the R.O. Order an insert window so it comes with out a nail fin and is pre-drilled in the corners for fasteners. I cut the concrete (or block) to the proper R.O. & insert the window. I level the sill & shim the sides so it's ready to fasten down. The magic fastener that has never failed me is the Tapcon Anchor. I just drill through the mounting hole (or make my own) with the proper sized masonry bit and anchors away! One word of advice, after you put the first anchor in measure the distance from the face of the window to the edge of the inside wall. Make sure this dimension is the same dimension all the way around. I measure in between anchors. Four anchors will hold it with no problem. Good Luck!!!

Thanks for the info. It sounds like I really don't need the masonry straps, or any other type of strapping then. What you're suggesting is to simply bolt it through, with the Tapcon anchors, into the concrete.

I have 2 questions for you. Most windows I've seen don't come predrilled, therefore I will need to drill for the anchors. 1)You are suggesting 4 anchors. In order to keep the window from moving, it would seem more likely to have 6-8 anchors. Is this overkill, or am I looking to put them in the wrong place? 2)Do you suggest I put foam behind the frame then calk the edges, or construction adhesive to adhere it along with the anchors? What do you do to fill the gaps behind and around the window frame, before the trim is applied?

Thanks!!! This info really helped me out. One last item. Many of the awning windows really don't open that wide. Primarily, because they are either opening with a scissor action or slide along the center of the sill. I am trying to get as much opening as possible. The only awning style so far, that works correctly is Pella. It is essentially a casement window, turned sideways, with a few modifications. My thought is, why can't I use a casement window, of the correct size, and simply turn it 90 degrees. I haven't seen any type of angle on the sill side, of the few casements I've seen. Would this work, or am I asking for trouble?

You'd be asking for trouble if you flipped a casement. Each window is set up to shed water away from the sill. The sash has weep holes located on the bottom side. If they can't drain properly you could have issues. The sill side of the frame is also built a bit more stable on some windows because it takes most of the beating and holds the rest of the unit up.

I understand your frustration though, I've always wished they would open up more for better ventilation. I have two Andersen awning windows in my MBR that doesn't offer much ventilation. I'm debating sliders to take their place before years end. Do them right the first time so you don't have to do them again later. You'll be glad you did. Good Luck!!!

Over the last few weeks, I've looked at many, and contacted several companies, about their awning windows. To date, at last count, I've checked on over 80 different window companies. The only company, so far, I've found that has taken the approach I'm looking for is Pella. The handle is on either side, with the hinges on the sides. It opens like a casement, but only about 70 degrees, so the water can shed off it. There is no hardware in the middle of the window to get in the way, if you need it as an access. I would have thought someone else would have picked up on the concept, but they seem to be the only ones.

The only company I've found even close, is Loewen Windows. Their Access window still doesn't open up too wide, but if you need to get out of the window, the mechanism comes apart for easier egress. Close, but no cigar.

It appears, when all is said and done, I'm going to be getting a Pella. Thanks for all your input. With your help, I think I can actually manage to put this window in right.