Thank you in advance for any feedback you can offer. It's a long winded post, but I tried to get all the info out there. My husband and I are looking to replace the windows in our single story 1979 block construction home. We're in central Florida and are set on impact windows, white vinyl, Low E, Argon, insulated, screens, no grids - really anything would be better than the builders grade single pane aluminum windows we have now. We've researched and have had several quotes. We like to think of ourselves as pretty handy and are thinking about purchasing the windows and trying to install them ourselves (except the first large one noted below). The windows we're replacing are: (1) 105 wide x 49-3/8 high - looking to get XOX where the outsides slide inward (this is the only window that can be seen from the street) will likely have this one installed by a professional due to the size and weight of it (3) 51-7/8 wide x 49-1/2 high in the bedrooms - to meet egress code, I understand we have to go with horizontal roller or casement - I think I'm leaning towards horizontal roller aka gliding or glider (2) 25-3/8 wide x 25 high in the bathrooms - no temper required - will probably do single hung or horizontal roller (1) 35-7/8 wide x 37-1/4 high kitchen - horizontal roller Quote #1 - $3800 CWS Custom Window Systems on the front window and all others PGT WinGuard horizontal rollers, plus optional $500 install (front window separately matl's+install $1600, included in the $3800 price) - this guy's local and has been in business for over 50 years, seems reliable Quote #2a - $3100 Material's only, we could install or hire a contractor - CWS Custom Window Systems 8200 series (horizontal roller) Quote #2b - $3900 Material's only, we could install or hire a contractor - Simonton StormBreaker Plus 300VL horizontal roller with CWS for the large window (Simonton only option was putting 2 HR's together with a mull) Quote #3a - $6400 Matl's, install, everything CWS Custom Window Systems (horizontal roller) Quote #3b - $7500 Matl's, install, everything Simonton (didn't specify which series) (horizontal roller) We're going to get a quote on Jeld-Wen impact HR's this weekend from Lowe's or Home Depot just to get all options. Lowe's is running a 20% off custom windows which may apply to the windows we need. We got a quote for 1 before and it was somewhere between PGT and Simonton's price, around $550 for (1) bedroom window, not counting the promo discount. I don't know much about CWS Custom Window Systems, other than they're a local company (actually made about an hour west of us). Their price is about 15% less than PGT, and Simonton is about 15% more than PGT. We're going to apply for the tax credit (30% of materials up to $1500). I've never actually operated a horizontal roller / gliding window. Most local showrooms are closed when I'm off work, but we have a neighbor who has them and I'm going to ask him how he likes them this weekend. I guess my questions are - 1. Is Simonton really that good and worth the extra cost, I know this board or are they known so well because they're all over the nation as opposed to CWS and PGT who are more Florida focused? I haven't heard much about Jeld-wen impact either. Are there other good impact mfg's we should consider? We're planning on being in this house for at least 5 more years, but want the windows to be great for the next owner too. And we're willing to pay the right price to get good, quality windows but don't want to get more than we need. 2. Are horizontal rollers better sealing and function wise than casements? 3. Do you think installing block construction windows is too much to take on? It seems pretty straight forward, even the people quoting said so. 4. I think the windows quoted are Low E 270, which will qualify for the tax credit, except the front large window would need to be Low E 366 to qualify - I don't know how much extra the cost is or if it's worth it. The first quote for $4300 installed seems pretty reasonable, and I would assume with that company being in business for so long, they wouldn't try to sell window brands they wouldn't believe in.

The above post is correct in the peculiarities of the horizontal sliding type of windows from all manufacturers I've researched. The best Design Pressure ratings I've found were DP35, and were listed with Marvin. Most other reputable manufacturers fall within a DP30 for this style. In contrast, casement and double hung type windows can reach or exceed DP45 classification. This is a commercial rating, and generally provides that a window meets very high air, water and structural ratings. As mentioned above, these durable products require an additional monetary investment from the purchaser. Disclosure: A quick search did not find the DP ratings for a 400 Series Gliding window from Andersen, so the above information may not apply to this model. We generally do not utilize horizontal sliding type windows outside of basement egress requirements within window wells. We feel that this is the only practical application for this type of window design.

Cup of Glad this thread is continuing to get so much traffic. I'm curious first, why are you replacing your windows? I ask because what most people don't realize is in "most" cases the best windows for any home are the ones that were originally installed - The exceptions to that can range from poor quality windows, poor install, failure Think about many homes that were built around turn of the century - 75 -100 yrs ago, how the windows have stood the test of time. Yes, they are not "energy efficient" however, from a proper fit & aesthetic view point they work. I think when the window sales people massage the homeowner on the "efficiency" issue - If you are changing out 16 windows let's say at avg rate of $750/window - for product & install that would be 12K - . The equation the sales people negate to offer said homeowner is what the return on investment would be & how long it would take to get there. I have done this, believe me - It would take most folks 10-20yrs to realize any investment. If you have done your homework & still feel replacement is the way to go - other considerations that should be taken; What is the original architectural render of the home? Can a replacement window capture that? think size/scale - muntins, mullions, configuration, trim, fascia - One can't just figure a one size fit & then install without a compromise elsewhere. Pictures of the exterior of your home in daylight & night help with proper choices. This is where I see many failures. One can have a beautiful 1900 home and take out all windows & replace w/replica vinyl - One could put in custom wood in the same home, but that does not guarantee aesthetically correct rendering. I found looking in window books & catalogs helpful only to a certain degree - I had to make sure the size, material configuration was indeed matching to what the original rendering of the home was (that was only for 4 windows!). Yes, it took some doing - when I finally thought I had it right, my architect friend brought yet another issue to light - "The muntins make the window look squatty" huh? - turns out the configuration of the muntins created a rather horizontal appearance in the individual panes rather than vertical - she was right. BTW we used Marvins - the project was a kitchen gut in 1930 Dutch colonial home. The replacement windows were done because the part of the kitchen we replaced the windows was once a screened in porch and PO put in aluminum picture windows w/side casements on front & back - ALL wrong for the home & unbalanced. Research here and other places led me to the Marvins - very pleased with the product. For the rest of the windows (26) double hung - we considered Marvin's sash replacement product (mentioned above) but do to the scope of our original renovation & cost over runs we decided against this. Instead I found "the window doctor" - yes that is the name of his company. For $200/window he replaced all parting strips, re-weighted where needed, all new roping, repaired chalking - Many of the windows were not operational, painted shut etc. Every window is now operational & they are lovely over 80 yrs young & very fitting to the home. I wish more homeowners would give consideration to rehabbing windows rather than ripping them out for a substandard product. Ok, I'm an old house snob - truth is told Best to you - stepping off soapbox

Thanks, jdesign, for trying to talk me through how this gliding system works. Thankfully, one of the two companies who offer Omega just put up a display of the doors in their store this week! So, I get to go in and see them for myself! Honu, I'm glad you found the thread again. It would be great to see your cabinets, when it is a good time for you. I finally got my initial quotes back from Durasupreme and Omega. I'm still in the process of trying to ensure they followed my list so I can compare apples to apples. I'm relieved with both quotes, which I guess is the consolation prize of a small kitchen. I didn't hold back much on the bells and whistles, so these numbers supposedly include thin end cabinets on both the fridge and the peninsula sides of the U for small pantry space, framing in the fridge, garbage pullout, microwave drawer, super susan, some drawer stacks, etc. The estimates also include costs for basic crown, light rail and toe kick. I asked to have them priced out in white shaker. Both cabinet lines are the frameless lines. They offer 3/4" plywood boxes, dovetail drawers, soft-close, full extension. Durasupreme Alectra came in at $17,528, discounted $800+ for a sale and another $800 if I pay cash - for a total then of $15,819. Shipping included. There was a $1700 up-charge for the bamboo on the lowers and fridge cabinet/pantry included. Omega's Full Access quote came in at $13,478, including shipping. It says on the quote that this is a 50% discount... It would add a little over 2K to change the uppers to the gliding door system. Bamboo and wenge would be a 50% uncharge (ouch). I'm getting a second quote from this line from another company today. The good news is that these numbers make both lines affordable for me. And, really, fairly comparable. The bad news is that I still can't find finishes in ANY line at ANY price point that I really like. I do love the Omega Metro door. That's about it, so far. It's really sad. I know stained cabinets would hold up better and slab is more cleanable and I like the IDEA of stained/wood/bamboo/wenge lowers and white uppers. But, I don't really want slab doors on the tops. I don't want dark and I don't want super grainy/busy and I don't think my house can handle heavy. The house would like light woods, but I am just not a fan of maples, firs, oaks, cherries, pines, etc. I went into this adamantly against yellow, gold, orange or red tones. Now, I am considering bamboo, but DuraSupreme's reads pretty orange/yellow and Omega's are muted but a 50% uncharge! One thing that I haven't considered, but maybe I should, is rift oak. Maybe I could live with that? Bottom line, I think I'm really a painted cabinet girl, trying to shove herself into a wood cabinet box SOMEHOW. And, all of that is probably for another thread...