If I'm reading this correctly, you want to "combine" the 40A circuit with the the 50A circuit (creating a 90A circuit?). That's not permitted. It sounds like you have a 50A circuit and a 40A circuit, and want a 40A and a 20A circuit. You could simply replace the 50A breaker with a 20A breaker, and have what you want, albeit with over-sized wires. That might present some problems with fitting the connections on the ends of the circuit, but without details, it's hard to determine.

"Is there a junction box made that will accommodate the 1 1/4 conduit coming in?" Most of the Home Despots and Lowes carry plain grey outdoor-rated plastic boxes that are quite versatile if you have hole saws in the diameters you need. They don't have knockouts or pre-existing holes--you just drill them where you need them in the size(s) you need and use appropriate conduit fittings and bushings. For this, I wouldn't go smaller than about a 6" x 6". An 8" x 8" would be roomier. "Are split bolt connectors the best way to splice?" Split bolts are tried and true and will surely work and meet code if they are properly taped. But there's the rub--it's all in the taping and more DIYers than not aren't familiar with good technique. (It's typically done with two types of tape--first rubber, then a heavy outer wrapping that is as thick or thicker than the insulation of the wire at the angular tips of the split bolt.) If you're familiar with making split-bolt connections, then fine. Otherwise, I'd go with Ron's "Option B"--one of several types of connectors on the market that doesn't require taping. (Actually, I like the newer connectors better even if they are a few bucks more.) "I am putting a 100 amp sub panel out by the pool/camper area." You probably already know this, but just to make sure... The rating of a panel (e.g., 100A) only means that the panel can be used for up to 100A, right? Since you're using #6 wire (and I'm assuming copper), that subpanel will actually end up being no more than a nominal 60A panel and it will require no larger than a 60A breaker to feed it.

There's high degrees of variability in the rules and sometimes it varies from trade to trade. I can replace an ELECTRIC or OIL furnace or hot water heater without talking to anybody. To replace a gas furnace or water heater, whether it's identical to the one that is there or not, requires a permit and inspection. Up in Virginia usually the inspectors spend some time on site looking at things. Down in my county in NC, sometimes they arrive, make their decision, and depart so fast it's hard to believe they actually looked at anything. On the good side, if I'm not on site, they have portable computers that instantly update the building permit website. WHich is good because they leave the paper inspection certificate in bizarre places, Frequently sitting under a rock paperweight on the site somewhere or one time under the windshield wiper of my NEIGHBOR'S truck.

grandmum, given the huge volume of issues you posted recently, it behooves you to bring in professionals to look over your premises.There may be some big issues that you have not recognized. And given that some others do not agree with my advice, there seems to be little point in my even trying. But NEC Article 422.12 requires your furnace to have it's own branch circuit. That would imply that the circuit in question would not supply additional loads unless the load is one of the stated exceptions in the code. The light is not one of those. This post was edited by bus_driver on Thu, Sep 26, 13 at 17:06