First, almost any sander is a less desirable way to remove finish. The paper clogs, which can cause burns and melted finishes. Once the paper clogs it is extremely difficult or impossible to clean.

A belt sander is the most aggressive type. Which means the wood can be more easily damaged.

Removing finishes is better done by stripping. Even if the job has to be done by a professional stripping company.

The best all around sander is a random orbit model. Here price is important. The less expensive the sander is, the worse job it does and the shorter useful life it has. Porter Cable, DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Bosch, and several mother brands are good. Skil, Craftsman, Ryobi, and no name brands are not reliable in my experience.

There are two ways to put sandpaper on a power sander. Hook and loop or adhesive. Hook and loop is by far the most convenient. There are two types of H&L paper---and several sizes. 5 hole and 8 hole---along with solid paper which does not allow dust collection(the reason for the holes).

5" and 6" diameter are the normal home shop sizes.

There are several grits as well. 40, 60, 80, 100, 120, 150, 180, 200, 220, and up. I have never used any power sander paper over 220 grit. And I seldom use under 100 grit, but I usually am sanding bare wood. And I generally stop at 150 grit when staining/dying/finishing projects.

You can buy power sandpaper in bulk far cheaper than from a home improvement or hardware store. 50 sheets per container is normal for the amount on internet sites.

Handymac - thanks so much for the information. This is what I needed.

For starters, I'd suggest that you get a 1/2 sheet pad sander. Having a collection of sanders...belt, 1/2 sheet, 1/3 sheet, 1/4 sheet & a Porter Cable round pad oscillating sander (uses round disc Velcro backed discs--I bought it almost new & really cheap at a garage sale), the one that I reach for most is the 1/2 sheet vintage Ryobi. When I have to replace it, I'll get another Ryobi (very scarce) or a Porter-Cable 505 or it's Rockwell equivalent (much more common). You'll have to shop used (eBay) because none of them--Ryobi, Rockwell or Porter Cable are being made anymore.

The 1/2 sheet sander is ideal for large surfaces--covers the area quickly & fewer stops for paper changes. With the smaller 1/4 & 1/3 sheet sanders that I have (Makitas), I seem to spend more time changing paper than I do actually sanding.

Note: I hate the sandpaper clamping on the Makitas so I will not suggest any of their sanders.

Buy aluminum oxide sandpaper. Sandpaper is sold in at least a couple of weights--Cabinet or 'C' weight and Finishing or 'A' weight. Cabinet weight is what you want for the machine. Finishing weight has lighter paper & is more flexible for hand sanding. (You can use the A weight on the sander by simply folding the sheet in half & clamping on the sander.)

Now, about the round pad oscillating sanders. They're really quite aggressive but not as much so as a belt sander. At some point, you'll probably want one but I'd stick with the 1/2 sheet sander, esp. for a newbie.

Don't be afraid of the weight. For the most part, looking at your projects, you'll be using the sander on the horizontal where the weight of the sander is an advantage. I manage it on the vertical OK & I'm just a girl. :-) You'll be needing more frequent breaks when running it vertically.

I usually start w/ 100 grit paper & work my way up w/ 150-180 wt, then 220 weight. After 220, I wet the wood to raise the grain & sand the nubs off w/ 330 or 400 weight paper, wet, sand, wet, sand. (That's for furniture--I don't go so far w/ stuff like closet doors, etc.)

Including a sandpaper source link. I've been buying from them for years.

Here is a link that might be useful: Industrial Abrasives

I'm right there with Handymac. Once I got a ROS, my pad sander has been sitting on a shelf.

I recommend one with "soft start" They are much easier to control than one that you might want to move at full throttle.

The only people I see using pad sanders these days are painters, and only for sanding between coats.

ROS are the way to go. Bosch is my favorite for a budget of $100 or under. Make sure the speed goes up to at least 12,000 opm. Speed is very important. All the ones with a variable speed selector go fast enough.

Some of the $50 or under ones are crap. The speed seems to be stuck on low. The orbit action can leave swirls in the workpiece. Stay away from the cheapo's.

A variable speed random orbit.

Get at least a 5 inch.

One with some type of way to attach a vacuum (not the stupid bag some come with) is very worthwhile.

While the noise of a shop vac and a sander both running can be a PITA, some ear muffs take care of that and at least some of the dust goes into the vacuum instead of all over the room and into your lungs.

For anything beyond a light touch up, a face mask (disposables with an exhale valve are about the minimum) is worth the price.
They should be less than $10 each, and can be used a couple times if stored in a zip-lock bag between uses.

The only power sander I would use for final finish under stain would be a straight-line sander. Any oscillating or ROS can leave swirls which in heavier grits are dang near impossible to erase.
Personally I use a cabinet scraper and hand block sanding for varnished work.
For floors, which are usually viewed from over 6 feet away, you can get away with some swirls, but with a dark stain even 6 feet isn't enough to obscure the worst cases.
Casey

Wow! I'm surprised to see this pop up a year later.

Funny because this weekend I finally started the table project. Got it stripped and sanded - just need a finish sand with 220 grit and start waxing.

I'm sure I'll be back soon with questions, but now I'm going to take three Advil with a glass of wine for my bad neck!

Look at what Festool has to offer. Unfortunately they are expensive, but the best I have run.