If all you did was replace the fan/light, why are you doing anything with the switches? Please describe exactly what you did to replace the fan/light, how the old one was connected, and how you connected the new one.

Switches 2008 NEC Article 409.9(B) "Grounding": "Snap switches, including dimmer and similar control switches, shall be connected to an equipment grounding conductor and shall provide a means to connect metal faceplates to the equipment grounding conductor, whether or not a metal faceplate is installed. Snap switches shall be considered to be part of the effective ground-fault current path if either of the following conditions is met: (1) The switch is mounted with metal screws to a metal box or metal cover that is connected to an equipment grounding conductor or to a nonmetallic box with integral means for connecting to an equipment grounding conductor. (2)An equipment bonding jumper is connected to an equipment grounding termination of the snap switch." ---------------------------- Since the original poster makes no mention of a metal box nor any mention of a non-metallic box with an integral means to connect to an equipment grounding conductor, the only type switch that can be used here is one that has its own equipment grounding conductor terminal or equipment grounding conductor. It is a code violation to use the ungrounded switch he purchased and needs to replace it.

If you want to figure it out, find your power source FIRST. It could be in the ceiling box or the switch box. After that, draw a diagram or look up a diagram online of how the wiring should be for your situation. This allows you to understand what is going on. I get confused with a few wiring schemes (usually 3 ways) and like to look at diagrams to get a grasp of what is going on. Once you have it figured out, then try to get it to work. It is more than likely you have a 3 way switch when dealing with the red which is always hot. That means your power source might be in a different switch box completely. The 3 way would be for the light, and it sounds like a separate hot is there for the fan, which could be capped off and discontinued. You wouldnt be able to use the dimmer for that light if it is indeed a 3 way circuit. 3 way circuits require special dimmers that communicate with each other. You cant dim with one side and expect someone to turn the light on on the other side and have safe passage in the room. The simple way of finding the power source is unwiring the hots in the switches and fixtures involved, leave the hots exposed and not touching anything or each other. Then turn the power back on and take a quality non-contact volt tester and find the live hot.

Our builder on puts standard switch in and the up charge from their electrician was steep so we're going to replace it after we move in. We don't have dimmer lights on our fans so we'll get something like this, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N7KD/ref=asc_df_B00002N7KD5065983/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00002N7KD&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167146990738&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8383815476084486450&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021462&hvtargid=pla-370253262917 but it if you do you can get a switch like this. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Fan-Control-and-Incandescent-Dimmer-Dual-Slide-White-Enerlites-17001-W/485063030?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=276&adid=22222222228071475250&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=182324404462&wl4=pla-477435699032&wl5=9021462&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=111838727&wl11=online&wl12=485063030&wl13=&veh=sem The electrician Ian I talked to said just make sure you have 3 wires pulled between the fan box and wall switch and you can do it on one.