Got it. I'm on board with 555, not just because it's the code but because it's hard to argue against it -- it makes good sense and I want my work safe. So now for the part about hooking up the generator: What'd I'd like to do is at the stub up near where the dock meets the shore, I'd like to put in the power transfer box. Someday, when I build a house I will replace it with power from the grid; today I would like to just put in a box to power from a quiet generator. -If I put in a 30A power transfer and run 10gauge to the breaker box (that I have yet to buy or install) is it appropriate to use only 3 of the wires (white black ground) and cap off one for eventual use with grid power? -The reason I want to do it that way is so that I can run the wire once and use it later when I get more power. Alternatively, I can put the gennie on the land and just run an extension cord but then there's a cord running down the dock. -What is your recommendation on power transfer? -What is your recommendation on the size of the breaker panel (I am planning on 100W of lighting, a stereo of say 200W, a ceiling fan ~150W, and my boat lift 1.5kw to start and not sure the operating load--will need to use my killawatt)? -My thoughts were to buy one that would house 4 breakers: 1 for electrical outlets, 1 for lighting and fan, 1 for boat lift, and 1 unused. I'm not looking forward to beating the grounding rod into the ground though. Thank you!

Sorry David I have to disagree on some points. It is possible to get a large volume of hydrogen with a fairly low amount of amperage but it takes a large plate surface area and they have to be very close together. The problem is with run of the mill materials like stainless... the impurities in the water and metal will eventually foul and short the plates. If you think it is impossible to produce enough hydrogen efficiently enough to compete with the oil usage you are mistaken. The government likes hydrogen as long as it is derived from petroleum products. I have a degree in automotive mechanics and electronic systems and monitored things when I 'tinkered'. Exhaust gas temp.. wideband oxygen sensing along with monitoring the regular computer sensors. I do agree that is not practical to build a hydrogen generator OR buy one off Craigslist or Ebay and think that you will double your mileage or even gain 10% for long term. The materials are not readily available for the average person to obtain to build such a unit for a decent price. I am not any sort of tree hugging greenbody but I do like to have a efficient home so I keep more of my money in my wallet than send it in the mail. I do like testing and trying things or trying to make something better faster or more efficient. If no one did what this gentleman is trying to do or other things people say are impossible we would not have inventors or new breakthroughs and would rely solely on China and other countries. WE need a breakthrough to get away from so much oil usage and that is a fact... dynamic fuels in Canada already has a system for big trucks that works and is installed on some trucks running in the US and it works good. The person who started this topic might be on wrong track but if he does his testing he will figure that out and go from there. If I am part of the holy-grail of the 'over-unity' crowd, at least I am not sitting around waiting for China or some other country to spoon feed me the next technological breakthrough. As far as my testing... I did not error in my measurements... the car got very good GAS mileage along with the water consumption which was slight. Building the plates does not fit into my schedule to make it worthwhile. It can be done... and I hope it is some greasy handed american dropout who builds a system that gets us away from so much oil usage that still allows us to have noisy exhaust and something other to listen to than the hum of an electric motor.

First, Square D makes an interlock kit for several models of their panels. When the architect is planning the dwelling, he needs to be aware of your desire for a generator backup in case of loss of utility power. By segregating lights from plugs, the refer, furnace, AC if necessary, Microwave and a plug circuit or 2 that will be available in the required locations,(Alarms,TV, computer, modems, phones/chargers) but at least one receptacle per room. With the interlock kit, it has a pair of two pole breakers for the feeds, of which it will either be fed from one or the other. IE, normal conditions it is fed from the house panel or grid, power interruption flip the interlocked breakers and you are now set for gen power to all the loads in the second panel. It is the expense of an extra panel and not automatic this way, but it allows you to use the same brand, type, style of load centers and breakers. AND IT IS NEVER OK TO LOCATE A GENERATOR INDOORS IN A RESIDENTIAL INSTALLATION THAT I HAVE EVER ENCOUNTERED. NEVER! IN A GARAGE. CO IS A KILLER. And keep in mind a generator is one of those things that is better off a tiny bit too big than a tiny bit too small.

I have the mega size drawers and did have one failure. Make sure in addition to heavy duty glides, they add additional screws to distribute the weight. It is hard to believe that 3 screws is adequate to hold 100lbs of weight especially in full extension. The KD/GC and Brookhaven did upgrade my heavy 42 to heavy duty glides and all cabinets had extra reinforcement screws added. My pots are in a 37 inch with regular glides (but additional screws as the GC came back and reinforced them). I have slots and most are sideways except for a few larger sauté pans. There are still a few pans that didn't fit(ok, I bought a few additions,,) but my giant sauté pan, large pasta pot, and a medi lecreuset are stored in my Super Susan as they take up too much real estate or height. The 11+ drawer didn't hold the large pasta pan with the insert as I recall. I have one 15 inch drawer without dividers(but might add them as it is perfect for muffin tins, etc. Most of my cookie sheets and cooling racks are above my ovens. I am just tall enough to reach them without a step stool. I also have more trays above the fridge. My cutting boards are in a small cabinet with a door. The dozen+ cutting boards fit perfectly in the narrow cabinet(my only non drawer cab except for the sink and super susan) One thing to think about is symmetry so visually your eyes are not popping up and down with the drawer lines. I am on the road helping DM, so usual text errors from phone. I have trouble pisting pictures from my phone but lots of pictures on GW shoeing my divided drawers.