How are they planning to mount the laminated glass in the opening? From what I read it will be a more or less permanent mount? One potential advantage (but also potential acoustical disadvantage) of the plastic insert is that it's much lighter than the laminated glass so it can be relatively easy to remove from the opening if necessary, whereas the laminated glass is going to be heavy. A laminated insert using 3mm glass for both lites will be over 50lbs at the size window that you describe, and while laminated glass can be very safe when handling, it's still a chore if you have to remove it from the opening for any reason. But acoustically that weight (density) is to your advantage. The .06 acoustical laminate glass means that they are using a 1.52mm thick PVB interlayer in the laminated glass. Generically .030" or .76mm interlayer is considered safety, .060" or 1.52mm is considered security, and .090" or 2.28mm is considered to be impact resistant, or the thickness generally used for hurricane impact glass. Adding additional thickness also adds some acoustical advantage as well, roughly 1 to 2 dB advantage for every additional .76mm thickness. I would suggest that if you are going to be looking at comparing laminated glass to acrylic, you might consider using the laminated glass in your bedroom.

Thanks, Todd. The Vytex quotes did include the exterior color of my choice My understanding is that the original trim will remain, but I may not be clear on the extent of the term "trim" The Marvin quote includes painting One additional issue is the upcharge for laminated glass on the Marvins--$500 per window. Is this reasonable? The Vytex quotes include laminated glass for 3 upstairs windows and any additional laminated glass is only $150/window. I think i would also like laminated glass for my 3 street-facing kitchen windows, so that is an additional consideration. Re whether it worth the money---I really don't have a sense of the aesthetic differences between them. I'm also concerned about reading that the Marvin windows only have a 10 year warranty on the wood, which seems to run counter to the claims that wood windows will last many years. Also, I can't find any air infiltration numbers on the Marvins. The U factor and other specs seem competitive with the Vytex.

Sophie - I disagree. I did not design this. I have no pretensions to being a designer and for many other aspects of the renovation we have indeed had formal plans drawn up. [I also know from experience that having an architect involved is far from a panacea .... but that's another story or stories]. For this room we knew we needed to replace the large leaky picture window and instead of replacing in kind we asked whether it would be possible and reasonable to build a window seat and what would be involved. We showed the contractor many pictures of window seats and shared the required dimension ranges (not exact dimensions) from various articles. He said a bay window would take care of it and no separate plans were required. I include the manufacturer's literature excerpt that says their Bay and Bow windows can be used as window seats. It seemed (and actually still seems) a reasonable solution. Projection Window Bay and Bow windows are like a piece of fine furniture for the façade of your home. These unique windows project from your home, creating additional space that can be used for a variety of purposes, such as a window seat or displaying meaningful trinkets. Our vinyl windows (typically double-hung or casement windows) are inserted into a solid frame to create this unique look that adds style to any home. Bay windows typically have three lites (one central fixed lite and two flanking operational lites) at 20-25-degree angles. Bow windows most commonly consist of four lites, all of which can be fixed or operational, set at 10-15 degree angles. The contractor asked us to describe what we wanted to the window vendor as well and we did. We never used the term bay window. We only talked in terms of window seat. The window vendor also did not dissuade us or suggest we needed an addition instead of a window. The window vendor spec'd the window we needed. Given that we have 8 foot ceilings - this would have been a really good place to catch that a 52" bay window wouldn't be long enough to provide a seat at a reasonable height off the floor. I think that's the key flaw here - plus someone's telling us that (unless I'm wrong) we weren't going to get the wood backing. Tomorrow should be interesting ...

Roller shades that slide in tracks can be almost completely sealed, providing good insulation because the air doesn't circulate. They are used in unusual situations where near total blackout is needed. This is probably not an installation option for patio doors, but you could ask a pro who deals with high end custom shades. They would not insulate the gaps between doors and doorframes.