Paints and primers are all designed for varying types of surface conditions. Most homeowner paint and primer products are latex (water) based or alkyd (oil) based. Some are designed to be obsorbed, penitrating into a surface, providing good bonding power for the top coat, while others are designed to sit on top of a surface and bond chemically like higher proforming metal primers. There are many other high preformance epoxy primers for other more harsh coonditions. Primers are often sealers too - usually when applied to new surfaces like drywall, plaster, wood, or CMU they provide a moisture barrier and once top coated, the surface is able to hold out moisture - which is a prime cause of coating failures. Once top coated, the properly prepared and primed surface will provide long lasting service for the homeowner. Drying times to touch or recoat can vary greatly depending on the product being applied. When in doubt, ask you paint store professional which primer is best for your situation and needs.

I've been working on my door frames and windows for months and just tried this. Amazing! Love the fact that it only removes the latex. I was using other methods that removed everything and I don't need that. Now to figure out how to do it to the entire house without becoming toxic from the fumes. There should be a special place in hell for people that do this prior to selling their house. I guess that's a bit dramatic but if you've dealt with it I'm sure you can relate.

Wow! I feel so bad for you. Shame on your contractor. Hopefully you didn't pay this guy. Turn him into the Better business bureau. I'm sure you know the only right way to fix this major mess. Start over. Your going to have to sand the stain off all the wood stair parts (3 steps: using different grit sand paper. 60, 120 and 220 would work nicely. The iron, you could sand or check out a paint remover at your local paint store or lumber yard you can apply to metal and wipe off. You can do this yourself. After sanding everything down tape off wood to paint iron first. Then stain all your wood stair parts last. There are good people out there that take pride in their work and do an excellent job. Next time ask for references and ask to see pictures of previous work. We have a portfolio that We share with our clients and give reference names and numbers. Good Luck -laura

The house is 100 years old. So, 1. Make sure walls are indeed plaster. (peek behind outlet cover?) 2. See if vinyl wallpaper can be pulled off (I'm sure it's decades old). If not, do I go to steps 3. scoring the paper, using gel stripper, etc. 3. Best case scenario, how much time are we talking? Remember that it's a rental, and rental time is only one year. I'm scared that I start and then reach the point of no return... and end up with a wall that needs skim coating. Now, my impression is that it's very thick vinyl wallpaper, probably installed in the 70s, 80s. It feels plasticky, with a texture, and definitely scrubbable. Because it's heavier than normal wallpaper, I'd assume that it's been attached with a heavier paste. Is that going to be a problem regarding removal? How can I figure out what paste was used?