In a 18 gallon swc which is what I use, I think 4 3.25" pvc supports will work just fine. Are you attacthing the supports to the bench or are you just tucking them in and filling with soil? Once the soil is in and wet that weight alone should hold down the supports pretty well. You might want to attatch the supports for good measure with some zip ties. And like you said the 5th would be your wick, just make sure you drill enough holes in it so it will wick well. As far as the soil goes I personally would stay away from the vermiculite. Instead I would use A1's 511 mix and add another part peat or two. Damon

I have tried baking soda with little effect a mix of ascorbic acid and water may also help a little. The mildew happens rapidly and once you see a single yellow leaf, it has begun. I spray with a fungicide called Serenade, which works quite well. Its done every 7 days during the bearing of the cukes. Bees love the blossoms and I usually have many bees busy all day long. I go out and pick at sunrise as its a little cooler and easy to find them on a vertical trellis. The honey bees must be local as they are busy all day and the area sounds like a huge bee hive. They usually are just fine even if I am out there picking right next to them, as they are not very aggressive. I posted links above to web site for pickling cucumbers, and if you don't know how to get these links copied to an internet browser, just simply point at an end or start of the HTML line (above), and hold down the left mouse button and move to the left or right to highlight the whole line. Once highlighted, press the control key down while you then press the C key. Open a new browser page and remove the text at the window at the top. Or point to what text is there, and then its highlighted, press the delete key. Position the mouse pointer in that window while you hold the control key down and presk V to paste the previously copied text. Press enter. Then it will show you the web page link. I made it easier to show you the Jung pickling cucumber seed assortment. Here is a link that might be useful: Jung Seed- pickling cukes

Do you also have the Quattro or the Trio diverter? I think you need a diverter. Have you looked at the Hansgrohe brochure that is on their website? It has a LOT of shower configurations. Here is a quote for the Quattro: "Quattro 3-Way Diverter Selects between three functions or a combination of any two". I think the Trio selects from any 2 functions or combo. But I am not sure about the combo part of this equation. I will post a link to the webpage with the downloadable brochure. The link will be at the bottom. In my pending setup I have the following: 1) ibox x2 2) quattro diverter (can select any 2 functions to run at the same time out of 3 options) 3) hand shower on bar 4) Raindance E 420 AIR 2-Jet Showerhead (this is where the second ibox goes) Hope this helps somewhat. Maybe someone else will have more experience than I. Here is another GW thread that has a lot of info but not sure if it has the info you've asked for. http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bath/msg0611065411093.html Here is a link that might be useful: Ibox Universal Plus Hansgrohe

Laminate reducers generally attach to the subfloor and lay over, but not on, the laminate itself. You need something that will butt into the 3/4" wood and overlap the laminate. My preference would be to undercut/rabbet a reducer using a table saw or a router table. Let's say the laminate is 3/8" thick. Set the table saw so the blade sticks up 3/8". Look at the 3/4" reducer and determine how far back you want the undercut to go and set the saw guide accordingly. Run the reducer through the saw repeatedly, with the 3/4" side toward the guide, moving the guide further from the blade after each pass. Once you end up with what looks something like a bit of an L, sand or cut the sharp edge that will overlap the laminate and put some finish on it. Install it at the laminate edge then cut your wood pieces to it tight as you install the floor. Another way to achieve the same thing would be to make a 3/4" wide thin cardboard template. Draw the profile of your stock reducer on the cardboard then cut it out using scissors. Trim it to look like the L I described but with a slight flat spot on the edge that will overlap the laminate and see how it fits. Using the table saw, cut the edge that will overlap the laminate, set the saw and cut the horizontal cut with the reducer standing vertically, flat edge against the saw guide, laminate edge side down, then make the one vertical cut with the reducer oriented horizontally, 3/4" thick edge against the saw guide. You can always practice on a scrap to make sure you won't ruin your reducer. Respect you table saw!. It can take a chunk out of you or toss something back at you if you get it crooked or try to force it. Basically what you're trying to make is a T mold that is only undercut on one side and butts up to the 3/4" thick floor. Sort of like this: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41YHKQYNC4L._AA300_.jpg Of course this one would be flipped over so the recess would overlap the laminate.