As soon as I get a ladder over here (it might not go high enough) or a relative with the tractor with the front-end loader to boost me up there (or someone less inclined to vertigo), I will probably aim to measure the limb in key spots first, and mark it off with ribbon or something. I don't recall exactly what type of Oak it is now - there's several different types on the property, but knowing the type would I think help to discern the strength from whatever data is out there. I'm sure someone has tested this stuff! I can "easily" wait a year to actually suspend the swing after the limb has been drilled, bolts inserted, boo-boos treated, and testing/tightening as needed. I had the swing for at least a year before I got the idea to look for "just the right spot" WITH "just the right limb" - took me a year or more to find that (because I got hung up on "a perfect limb" that is on a great tree, but a completely lousy location to have a swing unless totally intended for aesthetics alone) and then more wandering around the spot to feel certain I had some idea of how I'd "work" the area/landscape it. There's underbrush and saplings to remove and I need to decide ahead of time if I should go ahead with a different type of fence to replace the field fence that is at the "back" of the area. (Eventually I want to replace the field fence on two sides with something sturdier and possibly more visually appealing, but that's like close to a thousand feet of fencing sooo....) It also gives me plenty of time to pressure-wash the swing, get it well dried, get it to soak up some Thompson's water-seal, possibly replace at least two known broken slats or just repair them with wood glue - who knows, maybe even paint it or "decorate" it - whatever. In summary, it won't kill me to wait a year or more longer. Now I just wish I had stepped up and asked about this earlier in the year - when I could have done the drilling before the "sap had started to flow". I wonder if TSC will have bolts long enough for this or if I'm going to have to go searching around one of these old-old tractor/hardware stores in the middle of nowhere. :)

There really is no "brand name." They are considered custom doors and they are not sold by Kolher for example. The glass is measured for your application on site along with hardware requirements (clamps and hinges), and then the glass is fabricated. There are online places you can order from if you want to install it yourself. If your opening works for a french door set up, I would recommend that. All you have is 2 hinges on each door...no tracks, sweeps, etc. Makes a very clean maintenance free set up with no silicone. If you do it yourself...measuring is KEY to success. Neat to be super accurate and provide the fabricator you opening dimensions, they will size accordingly. And if your opening is out of plumb, the out of plumb dimension needs to be communicated to the fabricator because the glass SHOULD be cut out of square along the wall side (you will not notice this but the glass will "hug" the wall better and reduce the out of plumb gaps a straight cut would reveal). Custom doors can get very pricey!!! Shop around. You will find a very wide range of pricing...big mark ups for installation in my experience.

A photo would help. If you can remove the seat portion from the swing, take it to an upholsterer. For an estimate without taking apart the swing: take photos of the top and bottom, plus measurements, to the upholsterer and they can give you a cost estimate based on that.

all tile. go to ceiling, 100% to the ceiling. Plastic surround is just cheap. It's up to you how much you want to spend, but I'd do the tile. You'll need to decide what type of waterproofing you're going to do if you do tile. Is that large shower wall interior or an exterior wall? you'll know once you start demo if you have mold or moisture issues. make sure the vent fan is properly ducted. Obviously upgrade your CF ( I think we did 100 in our small bathroom.) as for the rest of the drywall, up to you if you want to tile. Or you could do a vinyl product wainscot. Once the moisture is taken care of, a paint for bathrooms should be all you need. It's a mold/moisture inhibitor paint. (BM makes one, as do the others). make sure the ceiling gets a good coat of this. you could also do a wet rated light over the shower area, (see first pic I posted) and another recessed light in the middle part of the ceiling. Put the fan and the shower light on the same wiring. for the lights on the vanity area, put those on a wall switch wiring somewhere near the vanity. Ceiling light and fan are over by the entrance, vanity lights over by the vanity. Decide if you want to do sconces.